RYA Method for Making Fast to a Cleat

[pyiangou]

My question is with regards to the first round turn in the RYA OXO. Does the rope:

1) go round the first horn, then the second horn and then again round the first horn, before you start crossing over

OR

2) go round the first horn, then the second horn and then you start crossing over

?

Many thanks!!!

 

[paulm299]

One full turn , First , Second and round the first again then cross .

 

[jimbaerselman]

I'm not aware that there's such a thing as 'The RYA Method'!

Anyway: the way to do it is the way that works with your cordage (how slippery) and the size of the cleat you're using.

Factors:

1. The first turn should choose the horn that gives a mximum angle of turn. This is to create the maximum friction with minimum effort, so that it's easier to loosen or tighten a loaded rope.

2. The turn around the second horn is usually in the same direction as the first - more easy control when surging a loaded rope.

3. Further turns are now only to lock the rope securely, so crossing with a couple of figures of 8 is reasonable.

4. If you have a thick rope and a small cleat, it may be necessary to lock the rope with a hitch.

The majority of people use locking hitches all the time. I, personally, have never used a locking hitch. I have two reasons for not using locking hitches:

A. I learnt to sail with natural fibre cordage. This expanded when wet, which could jam locking hitches, so, on old gaffers, we never used them. I learnt that a properly cleated rope is competely secure without . . .

B. A locking hitch is always slower to undo than straight figures of 8. In my view, cleated ropes should always be quick to undo.

That should dig out a few differences of opinion . . .

 

[kengill]

Gosh. you're absolutely right!

 

[Sybarite]

I find that with one complete turn on the cleat the weight is off the knot so no problem to hitch. I have never had a problem undoing the ropes.

John

 

[bilbobaggins]

I'm beginning to wonder if your given name isn't 'Dave'. And if you haven't enough work to do.....

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[pyiangou]

Cheers!!!

 

[l'escargot]

[ QUOTE ]
I'm not aware that there's such a thing as 'The RYA Method'!

Anyway: the way to do it is the way that works with your cordage (how slippery) and the size of the cleat you're using.

Factors:

1. The first turn should choose the horn that gives a mximum angle of turn. This is to create the maximum friction with minimum effort, so that it's easier to loosen or tighten a loaded rope.

2. The turn around the second horn is usually in the same direction as the first - more easy control when surging a loaded rope.

3. Further turns are now only to lock the rope securely, so crossing with a couple of figures of 8 is reasonable.

4. If you have a thick rope and a small cleat, it may be necessary to lock the rope with a hitch.

The majority of people use locking hitches all the time. I, personally, have never used a locking hitch. I have two reasons for not using locking hitches:

A. I learnt to sail with natural fibre cordage. This expanded when wet, which could jam locking hitches, so, on old gaffers, we never used them. I learnt that a properly cleated rope is competely secure without . . .

B. A locking hitch is always slower to undo than straight figures of 8. In my view, cleated ropes should always be quick to undo.

That should dig out a few differences of opinion . . .

[/ QUOTE ]
None of the above applies if there are already other boats, in a raft for instance, with lines already made off to the cleat with bowlines....

 

[Cornishman]

[ QUOTE ]
I'm not aware that there's such a thing as 'The RYA Method'!

[/ QUOTE ]

Come, come, Jim. You must remember the Day Skipper Shore Base Theory Course notebook, don't you?

 

[jimbaerselman]

[ QUOTE ]
None of the above applies if there are already other boats, in a raft for instance, with lines already made off to the cleat with bowlines....

[/ QUOTE ] Well, we were talking about how to make up to a cleat using an OXO.

But I challenge you to undo a bowline when there's tension on it. So I trust that at least the other end of the line is made up with an OXO, or at worst, a round turn and two half hitches, and I'd like to be able to release it from my vessel too . . . or in some circumstances the knife may have to come out of its sheath.

 

[Sans Bateau]

Whilst I agree the post IS about OXOing a warp to a cleat, and I do not dispute what you say; don't you think though that Lescargot has a point?

Do the RYA courses show people how to, and the benefits of, attaching a warp to a shore cleat with a bowline, or singleing up their lines, taking them back to OXO on their own cleats?

If they do it isn't practiced, the birds nest that is often seen in popular visitors berths where 6 or more warps are all OXO'd one on top of the other is evidence of this.

 

[jimbaerselman]

[ QUOTE ]
Do the RYA courses show people how to, and the benefits of, attaching a warp to a shore cleat with a bowline, or singleing up their lines, taking them back to OXO on their own cleats?

[/ QUOTE ] Yes, of course. It's normal for the shore end to be fixed - to lamposts, cleats, bollards, whatever - with a suitable knot. The point is, always make sure you can control the lines attached to cleats on your own boat - from on board. So a slip rope, 'there and back' (knotted at one end) is equally acceptable.