Rutland 913 question

chasroberts

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We have a Rutland 913 windgen along with a flexible 32 watt solar panel, both of which are routed through a Rutland charge controller.

I am getting 22+V no load from the solar panel which is just short of the specified no load value of abbout 23V. The windgen is apparently giving about 5,5V in around 10Kt of wind.

With all of this I can't get any reading from the Rutland ameter and so aint sure if any of this power is actually getting to the batteries. Having just replaced the old batteries I would like some advice please as to what I can test etc. to confirm that things are (or aren't) working.

Electrical dummy here so any thoughts need to be couched n seriously idiot proof understandable terms. My apologies for my ignorance...

As always many thanks to all.

Chas
 
[ QUOTE ]
The windgen is apparently giving about 5,5V

[/ QUOTE ] Did you mean 5.5volts?

What controller are you using?
 
It's the Rutland controller, not sure of the model etc but as far as I'm aware it's the normal bit of kit that goes with the wingen and yes 5.5Volts is correct. Doesn't seem a lot does it?

Thanks for the reply.

Chas
 
G'day Chas,

Turn any device off that uses the battery power. Take off the + lead at the battery and put a multimeter between the battery posts (+and -) and record the reading.

Then put the meter between the disconnected + and the battery post it was connected to and record the reading.

This reading should be higher than the first.

Avagoodweekend......
 
Be carefull because I disconnected my +ve terminal and it blew the controller, had to buy a new one.
Read the installation details first.
 
[ QUOTE ]
It's the Rutland controller

[/ QUOTE ] wondered if it was the HRDX, HRSi which is a new one or the HRS. All of which are Pulse width modulated.(PWM)
Or if it is the RWS200 Controller incorporating the SR 200 shunt type regulator.

However do a Oldsalt Oz suggests but when he says multimeter he means a multimeter selected to a DC volts range (20 volt probably )

I would check the current by disconnecting the positive lead from the regulator to the battery then after selecting the highest DC current range (10 amps probably) which may also mean selecting the appropriate input sockets. Connect the +ve meter connection to the removed wire and the negative to the battery positive. Note any current indicated then put on some load, cabin lights nav lights etc (fridge if you have one).

Initially if the battery is charged there will be very little current but as you switch on load the current should rise to more or less match the load, sunshine and wind speed permitting.

I would also check, in the same way, the current individually from the wind gen and the solar panel flowing into the regulator. The results will depend upon whether you have a PWM regulator or a shunt type, hence the original question. With a PWM regulator you will only see a current that the battery requires so put on some additional load. With a shunt type regulator you will see the full current output from each device depending on light level and wind strength.

In view of your lack of knowledge of electrical matters you may find the boat electrical notes at TB training helpful, especially the basic stuff.
 
[ QUOTE ]
put a multimeter between the battery posts (+and -) and record the reading.

[/ QUOTE ] In view of Chas' self declaration as an electrical dummy it would have been sensible to have specified that it was switched to a dc volts range!
 
[ QUOTE ]
I disconnected my +ve terminal and it blew the controller

[/ QUOTE ] was that a PWM controller. I would not expect it cause any problems with a shunt regulator.
 
I suggest firstly disconnect the solar panel. Then ensure the wind gen is connected as per instructions. If the gen is only producing 5.5v it is obviously not working. You can confirm by connecting a multimeter on Amps range between the positive terminal of the battery and the lead you have removed from the battery. This will confirm if the gen is not working (charging the battery (assuming the battery by now is not fully charged)
There may be some value on checking the voltage out of the gen as it goes into the regulator. This should be around 20 volts or so in a decent wind. The result of this test may be useful if you can do it before you contact the manufacturer.

In the meantime if you have a decent sized battery bank and leave them all connected ie 200AH you can connect the solar panel direct to the batteries without a regulator, reasonably safely.

good luck olewill
 
not strictly a response to your query but may lead you towards understanding as to what is happening.
some years ago I had a smaller rutland that did exactly what was claiimed ie trickle charged, but it developed a problem after a few years and when I checked the output voltage it was showing 5-7V depending on wind strength so in my mind was clearly not working as it needed to be > 12v to charge 12V batteries. I sent it back to Rutland/Marlec who were excellent but they sent it back and said there was nothing wrong with it.
In the ensueing discussion they clarified that the half wave retified output was effectively a series of humps starting at zero and peaking at perhaps 14v, hence an average reading on a voltmeter of 7v, the answer being that charging happens as a series of pulses but smoothed by the capacity of the battery (apology for the simplistic explanation for the electrically challenged)
Presumably different types of meters will show differently - also try the meter set on AC as the output has some of the charactristics of AC.
I have a Rutland 913 now and am pretty happy with it particularly
moderated noise and good low wind speedchgarging
 
Hi Guys

Many thanks to all for your responses. Will carry on playing with your thoughts for a while. However more serious problems have emerged (see todays post!). Ahhhh the joys of boating.........
 
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