Rust on rigging

[STATUE]

I have rigging that is two years old and have been told that what looks like rust, isn't and to give it a rub down with a Scotch Brite cloth. The rusty looking stain appeared within months of installation. I have many questions, as you can imagine !

 

[vyv_cox]

Assuming it to be the most common type of rigging, hard drawn 316 stainless steel, then what you are seeing is crevice corrosion. The crevices are tiny laps, caused as the wire is drawn through the die. Polishing the wire will remove the iron oxide and help to eliminate the crevices.

 

[tudorsailor]

I have rigging that is two years old and have been told that what looks like rust, isn't and to give it a rub down with a Scotch Brite cloth. The rusty looking stain appeared within months of installation. I have many questions, as you can imagine !

Get yourself some spotless stainless. No rubbing at all and the "rust" washes away.

TudorSailor

 

[Plevier]

Found on another forum, statement allegedly direct from the producer of Spotless Stainless:

"Spotless Stainless contains Citric Acid which is the strongest ingredient in the product. This is stated on the label on the bottle. We chose to use Citric Acid because it is safe and if formulated properly works very well to remove iron oxide (rust) and the free iron that causes rust. In addition, Spotless Stainless leaves a rich Chromium surface which reacts with oxygen to form an oxide layer to protect Stainless Steel. Many acids will react with Iron Oxide (rust) but will leave the free iron to quickly rust again and many are toxic to humans, the environment and may potentially damage materials used on boats. Muriactic Acid (which is Hydrochloric Acid a strong mineral acid) is a good example. Like most acids it will not remove free iron is typically diluted and should be used with caution (read the label on muriactic acid)."

Any comments Vyv?

 

[vyv_cox]

Any comments Vyv?

Where to start?

Rust is not iron oxide, it is hydrated iron oxide, a very different compound.
Citric acid is pretty weak. We used to use it to remove rust from a corroded component without damaging the steel (iron) beneath, so I doubt their statement about it removing iron.
How does it leave an enriched chromium surface? This implies that it somehow removes iron and nickel from the stainless steel, which I doubt very much.
Muriactic? It's Muriatic.

In the case being discussed there is no free iron, the cause is crevices. There is lots of information on internet about the beneficial effects of polishing stainless steeel. This article says quite a lot, particularly about the acids needed to clean stainless steel effectively.

Polishing with a mild abrasive works well for me. We use Cream Cleaner for all our stainless fittings - stanchions, hod and bimini frames, wires, etc. Takes very little time and costs nearly nothing.

 

[matelot]

Assuming it to be the most common type of rigging, hard drawn 316 stainless steel, then what you are seeing is crevice corrosion. The crevices are tiny laps, caused as the wire is drawn through the die. Polishing the wire will remove the iron oxide and help to eliminate the crevices.

You're a bit off target there Vyv. If the steel has laps in it they will have come from the rod rolling mill or even further back in the billet stage. Either way, real laps wont be removed by scotchbite.

Need to question where the OP got his rigging - it would not be the first time I've heard of someone using type 302 architectural wire rope for rigging and that will rust

Sorry - got to go. SWMBO 's voice is gradually rising in pitch

 

[vyv_cox]

You're a bit off target there Vyv. If the steel has laps in it they will have come from the rod rolling mill or even further back in the billet stage. Either way, real laps wont be removed by scotchbite.

Need to question where the OP got his rigging - it would not be the first time I've heard of someone using type 302 architectural wire rope for rigging and that will rust

Sorry - got to go. SWMBO 's voice is gradually rising in pitch

OK, I used the word 'laps' as a term that people would understand rather than in its true metallurgical sense. The crevices are minor surface tears that are subsequently flattened and drawn downwards during the die forming process.

 

[matelot]

Back again. Anyway Mr OP - what looks like rust most likely is rust. An oxide of iron. Despite both its English name of stainless and its German name of Rostfrei, stainless steel is neither totally stainless nor rust free in all situations. Question is whether your rust should be there at all.

In my view it should not. Well made rigging from decent quality 316 wire should not in normal use on a boat show rust like staining. Doesnt necessarily mean the rigging will soon fall down but personally I would be going back to the rigger. .

 

[temptress]

I have rigging that is two years old and have been told that what looks like rust, isn't and to give it a rub down with a Scotch Brite cloth. The rusty looking stain appeared within months of installation. I have many questions, as you can imagine !

Clean it if you want - but it's harmless and should be no cause for worry.

 

[DAKA]

Clean it if you want - but it's harmless and should be no cause for worry.

Agreed.

My whole boat went rusty for 3-6 months and then just cleaned itself.

almost 20 years old now, it just went rusty a couple of years ago one November ( in channel Islands at the time), stayed rusty for about 5 months and then just cleaned itself.
All I had to do was use Y10 on the white gel where the rusty water had run down.

No idea what caused it but it is immaculate again now.

 

[vyv_cox]

We find stainless rust staining to be far more common in the Med, presumably due to the higher salt content and ambient temperature. We may polish stanchions and other tubulars twice a season, rigging and fittings usually at the same time. It's mostly just cosmetic.

 

[Plevier]

Where to start?

Not your "product of the year" then!

I don't know if this is the same as the OP has, but my rigging (9 yrs old now) has staining around the swaged terminals. Come to think of it, so did my previous boat within 2 years of being re-rigged by a reputable rigger (Rig Magic).
What if anything is it best to do about this?

 

[Pete7]

Not your "product of the year" then!

I don't know if this is the same as the OP has, but my rigging (9 yrs old now) has staining around the swaged terminals. Come to think of it, so did my previous boat within 2 years of being re-rigged by a reputable rigger (Rig Magic).
What if anything is it best to do about this?

Our 2 year old rigging from XW Rigging is doing the same, rust around the top of the swages

All a bit worrying.

Pete

 

[vyv_cox]

Superficial staining is not a problem. Serious crevice corrosion inside the swage obviously could be. Two options, both of which I have used. firstly, heat the swage up with a hot gun and let grease melt down into it. I guess this would work well with lanolin, it has some hydrophobic properties. My own favourite is Waxoyl in an aerosol can, a really useful product for many water repellent jobs.

 

[Plevier]

Superficial staining is not a problem. Serious crevice corrosion inside the swage obviously could be. Two options, both of which I have used. firstly, heat the swage up with a hot gun and let grease melt down into it. I guess this would work well with lanolin, it has some hydrophobic properties. My own favourite is Waxoyl in an aerosol can, a really useful product for many water repellent jobs.

Yes Waxoyl is good stuff. Good idea. Thanks.

 

[Pete7]

Vyv thanks, we have Lanolin on board. Just need a dry day now.

Pete