Running engine in boat yard

[ghostlymoron]

I've just taken my boat out for the winter but did not have a chance to change the oil. Is it possible to run the engine when out of the water as this would make the oil much easier to suck out. I was thinking of closing sea cock, removing the top off the strainer adding water, starting engine and keeping strainer full until engine warm. But I have no idea if I would be able to add water fast enough - advice needed! If it worked I could also add anti-freeze to sea water circuit to protect against corrosion/freezing.

 

[Roberto]

yes no problem, it's maybe preferable to fill a bucket with water and put the raw water hose intake inside it



just tell everyone in the boatyard so they will not walk under your boat the moment you start the engine

 

[KREW2]

Disconnect from seawater strainer and fill a bucket from a hose. Start the engine and top up as necessary. Change the oil, then do the same with antifreeze in the bucket.........voilla.

 

[TamarMike]

You may be surprised how much water it uses so make sure you have a hosepipe running.

 

[sailorman]

I've just taken my boat out for the winter but did not have a chance to change the oil. Is it possible to run the engine when out of the water as this would make the oil much easier to suck out. I was thinking of closing sea cock, removing the top off the strainer adding water, starting engine and keeping strainer full until engine warm. But I have no idea if I would be able to add water fast enough - advice needed! If it worked I could also add anti-freeze to sea water circuit to protect against corrosion/freezing.

hang a bucket of water under the exhaust skin fitting.
the bucket should be customized with a 1/2" fitting ( rubber tank take-off ) in the bottom to accept a hose, connect a hose between the bucket & the engine cooling intake skin fitting.
top-up bucket as req when the engine is running

 

[Leighb]

hang a bucket of water under the exhaust skin fitting.
the bucket should be customized with a 1/2" fitting ( rubber tank take-off ) in the bottom to accept a hose, connect a hose between the bucket & the engine cooling intake skin fitting.
top-up bucket as req when the engine is running

I have seen this method suggested here and elsewhere, however on my vessel and many others it is impractical as the water inlet is a strainer type fitting. Is there any way around this?

 

[VicS]

Is there any way around this?

Yes take the suction from a bucket and have small electric pump to pump the water back to that from the one under the exhaust. Alternative is a third bucket and SWMBO transferring the water by hand.

This recirculating system is next to vital if you are going to attempt to fill a salt water cooled engine with an antifreeze solution. (without it just shoots through the bypass and out with the exhaust) but not necessary for just warming the engine up to change the oil ... for that a constantly running hose into a bucket in the cockpit does the trick.

 

[alan_d]

Yes take the suction from a bucket and have small electric pump to pump the water back to that from the one under the exhaust. Alternative is a third bucket and SWMBO transferring the water by hand.

This recirculating system is next to vital if you are going to attempt to fill a salt water cooled engine with an antifreeze solution. (without it just shoots through the bypass and out with the exhaust) but not necessary for just warming the engine up to change the oil ... for that a constantly running hose into a bucket in the cockpit does the trick.

Although such a recirculating system is certainly helpful for getting antifreeze into a directly-cooled engine it is not essential. You simply use plain water in the bucket until the engine has warmed up then give it strong anti-freeze solution, and stop the engine when the anti-freeze starts coming out the exhaust pipe.

 

[TheBoatman]

Beware

Running your engine whilst ashore is no real deal but whatever you decide to do NEVER EVER start the water flowing before you've started the engine because if you do you run the serious risk of filling the exhaust with water that will very quickly back fill into the engine causing the pots to fill with water and "hydrualic" the engine!!!!

The best method is as suggested here by other posters i.e. disconnect the seacock inlet hose and poke into a bucket of water ~ start the engine and keep the bucket topped up as required ~ just before you want to stop the engine add anti freeze to the bucket so as to fill the exhaust with a/f.

Once the engine is warm ~ suck out the old oil.

Job done?

Peter.

 

[VicS]

Although such a recirculating system is certainly helpful for getting antifreeze into a directly-cooled engine it is not essential. You simply use plain water in the bucket until the engine has warmed up then give it strong anti-freeze solution, and stop the engine when the anti-freeze starts coming out the exhaust pipe.

You have to have big bucket full of antifreeze mixture because you have to displace all the plain water in the engine and unless the engine is really HOT the thermostat will not be fully openen and most of the flow will simply go through the bypass and out with the exhaust. It will appear there long before all the plain water in the engine is displaced.

Better perhaps to drain the engine once all the salt water is flushed out and then allow it to refill from the bucket of antifreeze.

I suggest that a little is drained out via one of the engine drain cocks and tested for strength when you think the job is done.

 

[Twister_Ken]

It could get expensive if the props (not the propellors) get vibrated out. Have a word with the yardies first.

 

[PLEIAS]

If i may suggest something different, that is to connect the fresh water tank to the engine inlet so that at the same time you empty your tanks as well that is provided that that they have water inside.Then just before you run out empty the anti freeze in your tank.It works for me every time but then again i have the tanks inspection hatch nearby.

 

[Cerddinen]

I use a hosepipe with simple nozzle fitted so I can adjust the flow of water to match the rate of use by the engine. This goes into the strainer as your initial post suggested. In this way you can start the engine before the water flow, and run the engine for as long as you wish.

 

[Chris_Robb]

It could get expensive if the props (not the propellors) get vibrated out. Have a word with the yardies first.

Many yards ban the running of engines if you are on props. You must ask the yard for permission.

 

[Chris_Robb]

If i may suggest something different, that is to connect the fresh water tank to the engine inlet so that at the same time you empty your tanks as well that is provided that that they have water inside.Then just before you run out empty the anti freeze in your tank.It works for me every time but then again i have the tanks inspection hatch nearby.

Are you putting anti freeze into your drinking water tanks???? did I read that right?. I thought it was poisonous.

I have often though of putting a Y valve into the water intake, so that I can flush the salt out of the engine on a regular basis. Perhaps more important on saltwater raw cooled engines such as Gensets. I doubt however I will get round to it, especially as I am on a swinging mooring and water is more difficult to obtain.

 

[davidej]

Fine for you but what about the other boats around!

More than once have I had to clean up my topsides from the stream of rusty carbon/oil ridden water pumped on to it by the next boat.

 

[nimbusgb]

You have to have big bucket full of antifreeze mixture because you have to displace all the plain water in the engine and unless the engine is really HOT the thermostat will not be fully openen and most of the flow will simply go through the bypass and out with the exhaust. It will appear there long before all the plain water in the engine is displaced.

This is only a problem if you do not have an engine with heat exchanger cooling setup. There is very little raw water in a heat exchanger cooled engine. Less than 5 litres in my Perk 4108. About 1.5 litres in the inlet and strainer line. another 2 in the exchanger itself and 1.5 in the exhaust water trap. Its actually easier to make sure its empty than fill the exhaust and exchanger with glycol! The engine jacket is filled with fresh water with anti freeze and does not need the raw water pump running to get it topped off.

Dont run your engine for too long using a bucket under the exhaust to recirculate the ejected water! For one thing the water picks up soot and solids from the exhaust gasse and for another it gets progressively warmer!

 

[dsw]

why not take the sea water pump off and then there is no risk of burnning out the impellor as that is the only reason i can see why you have to put water through the system as you wont have it running long enough to damage the rubber exhaust if you only want to warm it up enough to change the oil.

 

[Chris_Robb]

why not take the sea water pump off and then there is no risk of burnning out the impellor as that is the only reason i can see why you have to put water through the system as you wont have it running long enough to damage the rubber exhaust if you only want to warm it up enough to change the oil.

I don't think that is a very good idea.

1. It would take quite long to remove the pump
2. The poor exhaust hose would take a battering and would probably delamitate if it did not actually burn, as you would need to run for 15 minutes or more.

 

[ghostlymoron]

Many yards ban the running of engines if you are on props. You must ask the yard for permission.

It's alright - I have bilge keels.