arranman
New Member
Can any one help with drawing details of the rudder construction for a SEACRACKER/TYLER33, as my rudder is at the botom of the sea.
Rudder
- Thread starter arranman
- Start date
moodycruiser
Well-Known Member
Before someone tells you you don't really need a rudder, blah blah blah, you could have alook at the following - it has some drawings that may help web page
26ft_bathtub
Well-Known Member
Rudder!? Pah!
Now in my day we used to sail cross-channel with nobbut more'n an auld plank attached wi'...
Now in my day we used to sail cross-channel with nobbut more'n an auld plank attached wi'...
homa
Well-Known Member
Re: Other drawings
Brilliant....!
You haven't got access to some drawings for my She 33 have you?!
I've googled myself silly looking for some.
S&S in the US will send me some for a price though
Cheers
Homa
Brilliant....!
You haven't got access to some drawings for my She 33 have you?!
I've googled myself silly looking for some.
S&S in the US will send me some for a price though
Cheers
Homa
Parsonsheath
Well-Known Member
God you were well heeled, we had nowt to attach the auld plank to
Frangipani
Active Member
Eee - luxury. We had to go cross channel ON a plank.
26ft_bathtub
Well-Known Member
Well, when ah say 'plank', it were really more o' a piece of auld broomstick wi' a spoon fer a paddle. Took us across t'Irish sea and back though, and we were happy wi' it.
Channel Ribs
Well-Known Member
LOL
In fact, laughing so hard I am in tears. Oh how it takes me back...
In fact, laughing so hard I am in tears. Oh how it takes me back...
William_H
Well-Known Member
It looks like the rudder has a pintle /axle/hinge at the top and one about half way down.
you would start with a stainless steel shaft up to the tiller and have pintle attachment points welded to it to match the ships pintles/gudgeons. You also get webs welded to the shaft going aft and possibly down wards. The shaft should esxtend to about 3/4 the depth of the rudder with webs horozontal and the shape of the camber of the rudder. ie out to the sides front and back in a tear drop shape (out as far as the inside of the f/g layers.)
ie like a rudder skeleton in SS.
the rudder itself could be made of foam either glued in between the webs or even mixed and cast in to the webs such that it is then sanded down to the shape and size you want. Fill the gap in the area between the hull and the pintles and extend the whole rudder as long as you wish or dare. Make sure you put as much rudder as possible infront of the shaft to give better balance so lighter helm load. You can extend the rudder forward in the area below the fixed keel part of the hull. You can go up to about 15% arera in front of the shaft for max balance.
When you reckon you have a good shape in foam then cover it all with multiple layers of fibreglass. Polyester resin is OK. But make the layers are multiple and thick for strength and long life. (min 1/4 inch thick.Obviously you need to sand down the foam to allow for the thickness of f/glass.
Finally sand and fill the glass to a smooth finish and paint with Antifouling paint.
I reckon you can design /build as good or better than the original designer. Larger rudder works better but is susceptible to damage and additional loads. Smaller is cheaper stronger and will give you less control of the boat. Thicker rudder especially forward give better resistance to stall but greater drag. Thin rudder less resistance to stall and less turning power but less drage.
I extended my rudder by another 2 inches some years back and it handles better especially at large heel angles.
good luck pM me for more detail.or search fibreglass building/ repairs. olewill
you would start with a stainless steel shaft up to the tiller and have pintle attachment points welded to it to match the ships pintles/gudgeons. You also get webs welded to the shaft going aft and possibly down wards. The shaft should esxtend to about 3/4 the depth of the rudder with webs horozontal and the shape of the camber of the rudder. ie out to the sides front and back in a tear drop shape (out as far as the inside of the f/g layers.)
ie like a rudder skeleton in SS.
the rudder itself could be made of foam either glued in between the webs or even mixed and cast in to the webs such that it is then sanded down to the shape and size you want. Fill the gap in the area between the hull and the pintles and extend the whole rudder as long as you wish or dare. Make sure you put as much rudder as possible infront of the shaft to give better balance so lighter helm load. You can extend the rudder forward in the area below the fixed keel part of the hull. You can go up to about 15% arera in front of the shaft for max balance.
When you reckon you have a good shape in foam then cover it all with multiple layers of fibreglass. Polyester resin is OK. But make the layers are multiple and thick for strength and long life. (min 1/4 inch thick.Obviously you need to sand down the foam to allow for the thickness of f/glass.
Finally sand and fill the glass to a smooth finish and paint with Antifouling paint.
I reckon you can design /build as good or better than the original designer. Larger rudder works better but is susceptible to damage and additional loads. Smaller is cheaper stronger and will give you less control of the boat. Thicker rudder especially forward give better resistance to stall but greater drag. Thin rudder less resistance to stall and less turning power but less drage.
I extended my rudder by another 2 inches some years back and it handles better especially at large heel angles.
good luck pM me for more detail.or search fibreglass building/ repairs. olewill
