Round Britain day 90

Concerto

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Up at 5 to be ready to leave as soon as the Conway Marina flap dropped at 5.55. At 5.50 I started moving out of the berth, but it was slow progress as I was cutting through some mud. Reversed out to the channel between the pontoons and the depth increased to 0.3m below the keel and the main channel was showing 1.3m clearance. Perhaps some dredging might be in order. The sun was just starting to show over the hills across the water. The flap had dropped 2 minutes early, so I was able to immediately leave the marina. Finding the buoys to follow the channel out was much easier than entering on Saturday as there was hardly a whisper of breeze. The sails stayed stowed today.

It was such a peaceful morning, making it a shame to disturb the tranquility as I motored towards Puffin Island. Halfway there, a Fisheries Protection boat powered past, so I need not have worried. Puffin Island is a rocky outcrop that shows the fractures in the rock, but the puffins had already left. Swinging round to enter the start of the Menai Straits, the black and white lighthouse on Anglesey has an unusual sign painted on the side. There was a light tidal push of about a knot aiding my progress, so I decided to reduce the engine revs to keep the speed at a sensible level. There are plenty of buoys to ensure you stay in the channel. It was lovely to see lots of green fields and trees on both sides of the straits, plus the hills on the mainland side. The first place I passed was Beaumaris with its castle, closely followed by Bangor with its long Garth Pier.

Finally, Thomas Telford's Menai Suspension Bridge, which opened in 1826, came into view. It is a magnificent structure and for those with larger boats might like to know there is 21m clearance at highest astronomical tide. Now came the tricky part of the Swellies. The narrows had pushed the tide up to 3½ knots with plenty of swirling eddies that tried turning the boat. Then I was fast approaching Robert Stephenson's Britannia Bridge, which was completed in 1850 and combines a rail and road bridge. I passed under the mainland arch, but could only photograph it after passing under it as it is so close to the Swellies. Just past it on the Anglesey shore, is a statue of Horatio Nelson, which was a surprise. Ahead was an impressive mansion on the same shore, this is Plas Newydd House, which is maintained by the National Trust.

Then Port Dinorwic passed on the port side, which I have been told that one lock gate is currently inoperative and there is only 12ft of width to enter the lock. At last I approached Caernarfon and called up Victoria Marina on VHF for a berth. There was certainly quite a strong cross tide approaching the entrance, but watching how fast the sideway slide along the wall made it look tricky. In reality the tide eased the closer to the wall and it was easy to enter safely. I was told to berth alongside a catamaran, even though there were plenty of empty finger berths. This did make it slightly more difficult to connect to the mains electricity (over £5 a day!) and fill the water tank. The trip had taken only 4 hours and I could still have entered the marina an hour and a half later.

Still feeling peckish I had some brunch and looked at the forum. I had difficulty keeping my eyes open, so stretched out and slept for 3½ hours. Walking ashore, I started chatting to Dave and Carol on a Sadler 34, Liquid Asset. They were returning from having been down to the minor rivers and creeks of the southern coast of Cornwall. Off I toddled to the ASDA supermarket for some shopping, but once returned I realised I had forgotten some items. This time I went to Morrisons, which was a bigger store than ASDA, with a better range of products.

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Sun is just rising between the entrance markers of the marina.
An even more striking photo has been posted here. Just pictures #847

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Looking back at Great Orme Head. Oops, I have been told this is Little Orme, not Great Orme.

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Puffin Island

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Some idiots must have tried it in the past

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Telford's suspension bridge

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Britannia Bridge in the distance with the Swellies between

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Just about to get to the narrowest point of the Swellies

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Looking back at the Britannia Bridge

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Horatio Nelson statue

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Plas Newydd House

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Caernarfon Victoria Marina

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For anyone wanting to read the reports from the start, this is the link to first one.
Round Britian day 1
 
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Neeves

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Your posts based on days since the beginning of the voyage is very apt as you are a bit over half way round. You have not dawdled but you are already at Day 90. The whole concept is an immense undertaking demanding a huge investment in time. Not for the faint hearted.

I admire your tenacity and sailing skills, not ignoring your investment in the updates.

Take care,

Jonathan
 

TSB240

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Sorry we won't get a chance to meet up. This thread shows what you have missed in our fantastic cruising area.
16 days to circumnavigate Anglesey

I think you need to slow down!

If you get a northerly wind take the chance to moor up at Bardsey Island and go ashore. (Contact Colin the ferry boatman at Aberdaron for permission.)



Steve.
 

[3889]

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Congratulations on transiting the Swellies - there are many N Wales sailors who balk at the prospect and head along the north coast of the island. Like most potentially problematic passages, it's a doddle at the right time.
 

Concerto

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Today I spent some time looking round Caernarfon and the castle. The walled town is certainly impressive, but the castle is magnificent and worthy of being a World Heritage Site, even though it is under going repairs to the King's Tower.

Before I entered the castle I spied a large vessel being restored alongside the end of Slate Quay beside the castle. It had 3 masts, but something did not seem quite right about her looks. I saw a man who appeared to be in charge through the railings, so I asked a few questions. The ships name is Britain and she was built in 1910 as a light ship. Later she was converted into a 3 masted sailing boat, then later used as a floating maritime museum. Currently she is being converted into a luxury sailing cruise ship for the UK waters. Part of the plan is to use the masts for whale watching.

Once inside the castle I walked every passage or walkway and climbed every tower. The spiral staircases were narrow and steep, and met I many an unfit person panting or wheezing from the exertion, plus a few who just gave up. From the Eagle Tower, I could just make out the corner of the marina and Concerto. The Royal Welch Fusilier museum is within the castle walls and covers the regiments history from its inception through to today. There was so much information it was impossible to read everything, but from the parts that interested me most I found the displays and information captivating.

Whilst walking round the town I came across the railway station for the Welsh Highland Railway which is a heritage railway running 25 miles to Porthmadog. I did not realise it came to Caernarfon. It is a narrow guage railway that has diesel and steam trains, but during August thy only run steam locomotives. It runs close to the base of Snowdon for anyone feeling super fit, but does not link to the Ffestiniog Railway that does go to up Snowdon. I may take a round trip the full distance on Friday, but this depends on whether Pwllheli Marina call me back that to say they have a berth for me on Friday as they initially said they were already full. On the Cruising Association web site someone had commented that they no longer take visitors and another person I spoke to said the problem is the large number of small motorboats at Pwllheli that are normally kept on trailers and are now regularly blocking any spare berths once they are launched.

As I walked back towards the marina, I spied probably the biggest anchor on display I have seen on this trip. It was a 5 ton anchor from HMS Conway which was wrecked in 1953 in the Menai Straights. She was originally launched as the 92 gun HMS Nile in 1839 and renamed in 1875 and based in Liverpool as a training ship. During the Blitz of Liverpool in 1941 she was moved to Bangor and in 1949 moved to a mooring off Plas Newydd House where she was lost at the Swellies. In 1956 the wreck was being removed but caught fire and burnt to the waterline, the wreck still remains. The 2 anchors were recovered in 1987 and the oak stocks were replaced in 1988. The second anchor is displayed at the Mersey Maritime Museum. More information is available here. HMS Conway - Menai Heritage

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Victoria Marina panoramic view

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Ex lightship/sailing vessel/maritime museum "Britain" being renovated, photo taken from the castle

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Queen's Tower to the left and Eagle Tower

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Granary Tower to the left and North East Tower

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Queen's Gate to the left and Black Tower

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The Queen's Gate from Granary Tower

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King's Gate with Eagle Tower behind and the Menai Straights beyond from Granary Tower

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Slate Quay and creek from Eagle Tower

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Vicoria Marina from Eagle Tower. Just to the left of the block of flats is a large yacht, Concerto is on her bow. In the distance notice the large
sandbank with the Menai channel running on the far side

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Welsh Highland Railway station with the castle behind

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It is a big anchor and the stock must stand about 12 ft above the ground
 
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creeks

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If you're desperate for somewhere to stop we once used the SCYC visitor moorings at Abersoch and found the launch service very flexible, taking us out to the boat as late as 11 p.m.
Forecast dependant and no power though obviously.
 

Supertramp

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There is a lot of motorboat launching around the visitor berths at weekends and on sunny days. Plus its Bank Holiday weekend so some will launch and stay in a marina berth if available over the weekend. Will ease off by Monday.

I would be surprised if the marina turned away a serious sailor. Not sure if the Pwllheli Sailing Club berths are marina operated - often the serious racing yachts berthed there are away although Abersoch Keelboat week may mean they are at home.

Time your tides and forecast right and you'll enjoy a sail unlike your usual with the tide doing the work, gentle winds and good scenery!

Finally avoid entering Pwllheli more than about LW +/- 2 hrs even at neaps as it can be excitingly shallow.
 

E39mad

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Port Dinorwic (Y Felinheli) lock gates were operating on Saturday. I was talking to the gate keeper as he let a boat in.

I stayed in Plas Newydd as a kid. Cheshire County Council used to lease one end of it in the then 1980's - it was called the Nelson Center and we raced dinghies in the Strait in March....brrrr.

Do you have a preferred place to moor when you locate Concerto to North Wales?
 

Jodel

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The Welsh Highland Railway does connect to the Ffestiniog Railway at Porthmadog but not to the Snowdon Mountain railway which, as it's name suggests, is the one that goes up Snowdon from Llanberis.
 

Concerto

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If you're desperate for somewhere to stop we once used the SCYC visitor moorings at Abersoch and found the launch service very flexible, taking us out to the boat as late as 11 p.m.
Forecast dependant and no power though obviously.
This morning Pwllheli Marina phoned as they have a berth for me for the weekend. Thank you for the advice anyway.
 

Concerto

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There is a lot of motorboat launching around the visitor berths at weekends and on sunny days. Plus its Bank Holiday weekend so some will launch and stay in a marina berth if available over the weekend. Will ease off by Monday.

I would be surprised if the marina turned away a serious sailor. Not sure if the Pwllheli Sailing Club berths are marina operated - often the serious racing yachts berthed there are away although Abersoch Keelboat week may mean they are at home.

Time your tides and forecast right and you'll enjoy a sail unlike your usual with the tide doing the work, gentle winds and good scenery!

Finally avoid entering Pwllheli more than about LW +/- 2 hrs even at neaps as it can be excitingly shallow.
Thank you for the comments, but I have a berth now allocated. Just have to ensure I arrive close to high water, which was my plan anyway.
 

Concerto

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Port Dinorwic (Y Felinheli) lock gates were operating on Saturday. I was talking to the gate keeper as he let a boat in.

I stayed in Plas Newydd as a kid. Cheshire County Council used to lease one end of it in the then 1980's - it was called the Nelson Center and we raced dinghies in the Strait in March....brrrr.

Do you have a preferred place to moor when you locate Concerto to North Wales?
The comment about the lock gates at Port Dinorwic was from a berth holder there about 10 days ago. They must have got them fixed.

After sailing in the Scottish Western Isles and Northern Ireland, I am now thinking of keeping Concerto in SW Scotland even though it would mean a 5 hour drive to get there once I move to Cheshire. Believe it or not, it would be less time to drive to a berth on the Orwell on the East Coast. So nothing is decided yet.
 

Concerto

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The good news about a berth in Pwllheli delayed my start this morning as I chatted for a long time with the friend I was planning to visit there. He has been renovating a Fulmar and I have been his mentor. Then my wife had a problem at home that needed my advice to solve. Finally just after midday I pulled my bike out and carried it across the boat I am tied up against and placed it on the pontoon. The ride to the Menai Bridge has a lot of high hills to climb and freewheel down. On one down hill section I had been braking as I felt I was going too fast, then I looked at the speed and I was doing 31mph - way too fast as 20mph seems fast enough with traffic passing you. Google maps suggest it should take 46 minutes to cycle there, but I did it in just under 30 minutes, so electric bikes do get you places faster.

At the Menai Bridge I could have ridden over but decided to walk over so I could take some photos and videos. At the other end I mounted the bike to cycle about 250m to the Menai Bridge Museum. It is only open on Wednesday and Thursdays and cost £5 entry. The lady who greeted me was the founding member and provider of lots of the exhibits. She was very chatty and has done a lot of sailng, so asked me about my trip. Also there was a lady engineer who oversees the structure of the 2 bridges, who currently is finishing her Masters in Engineering.

The original Menai Bridge by Thomas Telford, which opened in 1826, was the longest suspension bridge in the world when completed. It had a wooden roadway intended for horse drawn vehicles, which was later changed to a steel base with a tarmac road surface. As motor traffic increased the original sets of 4 chains was replaced with 2 wire cables for greater load carrying, plus the road deck strengthened and widened. The was done between 1938 and 1940, and the tolls were then removed.

By comparison the original Britannia Bridge by Robert Stevenson, the son of George Stevenson, completed in 1850, was a completely different design as it was a railway bridge with 2 tubular box sections for the trains to travel within. At the same time Stevenson was constructing the Conwy Bridge using the same tubular construction. This bridge is still in use today, but alas the original Britannia Bridge was damaged beyond repair by a fire caused by some young boys in 1970. A new design of support was used with steel arches mounted on the original towers. Instead of being twin rail tracks, it is now only a single track. A further addition was a roadway over the railway to cater for the increased road traffic. This was finally completed in 1980.

There was lots of interesting information about both bridges and many old components on display along with framed antiquarian engravings and paintings. The most interesting item was a spanner that was used to tighten the bolts on the Menai Bridge, it must have been about 12 foot long. There were a number of ship models in another room, the best was of HMS Conway. I have also obtained a photo of her after she sunk but before she caught fire in 1953.

Once I left the museum I went down to the waters edge and flew the drone. I was trying to video the eddies and channel of the Swellies. Finally I rode towards to the Britannia Bridge, stopping on the way to take a number of photos. Using the Britannia Bridge to cross over to the mainland side, again I walked over the bridge to obtain more photos and videos of the Swellies. The ride back was not as bad as I expected as the height of the bridge meant I had less hills to climb even though I was riding into the wind now.

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Menai Bridge roadway

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Menai Bridge Museum with Robert Stevenson's portable desk, the toll board from the late 1930's and one of the original gates.

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On the wall are 2 original chains, some blocks, bolts, roller from the top of a tower and tools used during the making of the chains

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Stood in the corner is a spanner used to tighten the bolts, defitiely not one for a back pocket

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Model of HMS Conway

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The wreck of HMS Conway after she had broken her back

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Menai Bridge from my drone

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Britannia Bridge from my drone

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Menai Bridge, from the road between the bridges

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Slightly further along the road and the turbulent water is visible

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The house on the island beside the Swellies with the marker beacon behind that you must pass on the mainland side of the shore

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Some rocks to avoid as the channel runs close to the shore on the mainland side (right hand of this picture)
 

Praxinoscope

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Thé National Film Archive of Wales (based at the National Library of Wales Aberystwyth), has some lovelyfootage of 1930’s yacht racing around the Swellies, and some sad footage of HMS Conway going aground whilst being towed.
 
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