Round Britain day 23

Concerto

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What a day. I doubt I will ever forget this one.

Alarm set for 5.30 and when I looked outsidein Whitehills, the large boats on each end of the pontoon had already left. This made my leaving a much easier job. Slipped from the berth at 6.30 and headed out to clear the land and rocks. After putting away all the fenders and ropes, with the shipping forecast saying S going W 5 to 7 and the breeze felt quite strong, I decided to start with a reef in both sails. I was quite happy with 5.3 knots and hoped as I left the shore I would get a little more wind. It was a dreary grey day and seemed little chance of the sun breaking through

Just over half an hour later the wind dropped and I was doing 3.5 knots, so shook out both reefs. For the next couple of hours it was sail reasonably well, wind drops and engine goes on for 10 minutes, and repeat and repeat. By 9am the wind had risen further and I had to reef the mainsail and I was making close to 7 knots on a beam reach. Later I had to shake the reef out as the wind eased. By 11 the wind had not only eased but radically changed direction to N from SW. Where did that come from? I was about 15 miles from the nearest land. This made my course impossible to keep on 330, so on went the engine yet again, so I furled the genoa away.

15 minutes later the wind returned from the original direction, so off went the engine and I was sailing at 7½ knots. By 12.15 I had to make a course change as I had passed south of a very large windfarm and now heading due north for Wick. Now the fun started. Progressively the wind increased, so a reef in the main, then a reef in the genoa. As it got stronger there were big rollers coming from the Inverness direction. And it got more windy, so reefed the genoa again. Then I tried turning onto a broad reach and the speed kept increasing I started seeing numbers in the high 7's and shortly the low 8's. This is getting silly, so decided to reef the main again. This rig is fine for a force 7. Others in Wick later confirmed they saw windspeeds for a force 8.

Those rollers were getting bigger with white caps almost on every wave and the peak to trough was about 1½ metres, but some were about 2 metres. Some of the rollers were breaking and one big one broke on to the side deck. The autopilot was beginning to struggle so I put a 3rd reef in the genoa, never done that before. It was now about a third of it full area. This did not make any real difference as I was still overcanvased. The only thing left was to drop the mainsail.

This still proved to be too much for the autopilot and she kept turning into wind and kept going on to the other tack, the genoa backed and she became stable. This made the main easy to drop but the autopilot was beeping madly. It showed the course had changed by over 51 degrees which was outside its control range. I grabbed the tiller and disengaged the autopilot and continued to turn and gybe the bit of genoa back to catch the wind. From now for the next 4 hours I had to hand steer as the conditions were getting worse. So, no lunch today. I headed towards the cliff lined shore hoping to get a little respite, but even a mile from the cliffs gave little change. It was a very rough ride. I was still doing between 5 and 6 knots with such a small piece of sail out.

As I closed the shore the water was teeming with sea birds, thousands and thousands. Some gulls were gliding on the wind and spotting food in the water and grabbing it, other gulls were just sitting in the water, but the guillemots were the most amusing. Groups would be close to my course, so some decided to just dive under the surface but others would take off. They tried flying into wind and stayed static or went backwards. I was a bit naughty as I tried closing in on groups of guillemots to see them struggle to fly.

Eventually I closed to about a quarter of a mile from the cliffs and things did get a little easier. Then I started seeing some fishing floats and had to dodge several. When I was about a mile from Wick, I started the engine but left it out of gear. Great, I can finally engage the autopilot again, but somehow it had lost its compass sense and was reading 180 degrees out and would not hold a course. So using my TillerMate corded system I kept the boat roughly on course. After furling the last of the genoa away, the boat seemed quite stable. Entering a strange harbour in strong winds is not fun, but to try it singlehanded can be a nightmare. So I rigged fenders and warps on both sides to be able just pull into any berth.

As I approached the harbour entrance I called up the harbour on VHF, but they failed to respond, this happened 4 times. In I go with my Cruising Association advice of where visitors should berth and pick a finger berth almost head into wind. I was going to moor port side to as there was a large boat that should shelter me from some wind. Just as I was going to moor to the pontoon, the bow blew off. Eak. Dash back to the cockpit and steer to port and a burst of power. I was blown sideways to moor on the starboard side. Being prepared saved the day as no damage done thankfully or so I thought. Then someone on the boat on the otherside of the finger came on deck. So had a chat, then stripped off my oilskins and went to find the harbour office. Get in there at 10 to 5 and told they were just going to close. With the forecast nasty for the weekend I paid up until Monday.

I was shown where the shower block was and I asked where the chandlers was. It was just around the corner, but she did not know if it opened on a Saturday. I need a new inlet pipe for the toilet as it has a small hole that is dripping. Today I noticed both of my boots were showing signs of perishing, one has a short split. In the window it says they are open in the morning till 1, phew.

After checking out the shower block, I went back to the boat. I noticed the port side mooring line was in the water. Went to retrieve it and up came a bunch of tight curls in the rope and a severed untwisting end. Oh sh*t, the mooring rope I had dropped had caught the propeller. The other end seemed to be stuck fast on the propeller, but the genoa winch soon pulled it free. So I now need an extra 30m mooring line, and need to trim and bind the ends of the good bits of cut rope. On the plus side, the rope cutter worked.

So, now you know why it will be a day to remember. The distance is about 50 miles and it took 9½ hours from berth to berth.

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A grey day at 7.30

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The sun is trying to burn through the grey at 8.

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Interesting cloud formation and lighting as the sun was behind me at 8.55.

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Concerto and another Fulmar making the Sigma the filling in a Fulmar sandwich in Wick.

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The dog leg was to avoid sailing through a large windfarm.

For those reading this post and would like to read from the start, this is the first report of this trip.
Round Britian day 1
 

mrming

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Sounds a bit sporty! I believe I have the same autopilot as you (also on a Fulmar). You’ve probably discovered this, but I have found it steers better to the wind rather than a heading once the breeze has got up and there are larger waves.
 

boomerangben

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Was certainly sporty offshore yesterday and glad I wasn’t sailing for the first time this week!

thank you for taking the time to share your voyage. I’ll m looking forward to the Orkney’s and Shetland
 

Minchsailor

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I am on the other side of Scotland to you, (Lochinver, about 25m S of Cape Wrath) yesterday was not a day I would have liked to be sailing. Today, perhaps even worse - frontal weather with occasional viscious squally showers. Several boats in here sheltering.

Assume Orkney/Kirkwall is your next hop; wait for calmer conditions as crossing the eastern extremity of the Pentland Firth is no place for a small boat when it is blowy.
 

srm

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Welcome to the north!

A nice reminder of very many years sailing in those waters, though fortunately you will find that its not like that every day. Also, a reminder of why I am now well south (though have had two hurricanes since moving here to remind me of northern winter winds so no where is perfect).

Incidentally, I have fitted a windvane steering system to each of my sailing boats as I have found them more reliable than electronic autopilots, though you must keep a balanced sail plan.
 
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Concerto

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Well after the battering of yesterday I have been taking things a little easier. The MUT Watersports chandlery was worth visiting as the owners are very nice and know their stock. They did not have yachting boots in my size, but I now have some Dunlop yellow fishing boots with steel toe caps, so my feet will now stay dry. They have supplied some hose to replace my toilet inlet hose that has small hole allowing it to drip. Will be fitting that in a few minutes. As to the 14mm mooring rope, alas they were out of stock. The circus is in town and yesterday they bought all the 14mm rope they had in stock. Would you believe it, but it is true.

Later I spent several hours in the award winning Wick Heritage Museum. It is an amazing place to visit as it has 25 rooms covering everything from herring fishing to everyday household life displays, plus printing and engineering and lots more. They have a collection of over 50,000 glass photographic plates with lots of local images on display in beautiful clarity. www.wickheritage.org or the photos can be viewed here www.johnstoncollection.net There is a £5 admission charge but worth every penny.

Here are some photos in the museum.
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Some model boats local to the area.

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Lighthouse lamp

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Lighthouse mechanism.

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Print room.

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Engineers tools.
 

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steveeasy

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Seriously its the edge of the world when you get round to Thurso. I mean that with the upmost respect. was there in 1980 in my youth. Many years later I lived in Scotland for 6 great years. I never made it to visit Wick again though, just too far by road. Its more likely i will sail there, than drive. thats my point. Great pics.
Steveeasy
 

Concerto

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Gee thanks for all the comments, it motivates me to keep up the posts. I hope it motivates a few of you to try a similar journey, not necessarily singlehanded like I am doing.

Trying to get all the photos and videos is not always easy. There are times I cannot take the shot(s) I would like because I am busy doing important jobs. Occassionally things do not go right, I admit that and include them. However I was in Lowestoft having a shave before a shower, I saw a mark on my arm. When I lifted it I found this huge bruise.

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This happened on day one. I was trying to get a video of the waves on the beam when it was blowing a force 7 heading for Harwich. I had the arm round the lifelines and a wave caused me to slip into the cockpit and onto the valise liferaft. The lifeline caused this bruise as my arm dragged over it.
 
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Concerto

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Just been checking up how many days I have actually been sailing. Although this was day 23, it was the thirteenth day sailing. Funny that, as usually thirteen is one of my lucky numbers.
 

Neeves

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The image of the lighthouse mechanism.

Most, all, of the Scots lighthouses were built by the Stephensons, same family as Robert Louis Stephenson (who was one of the black sheep of the family). There is a lovely book on the topic 'The Lighthouse Stephenson' which is an excellent read.

Jonathan

The Lighthouse Stevensons: The Extraordinary Story of the Building of the Scottish Lighthouses by the Ancestors of Robert Louis Stevenson : Bathurst, Bella, Harpercollins Publishers Ltd: Amazon.com.au: Books
 

Blueboatman

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Just been checking up how many days I have actually been sailing. Although this was day 23, it was the thirteenth day sailing. Funny that, as usually thirteen is one of my lucky numbers.
You’re at the tip of Scotland in 13days with nowt seriously wrong.. that’s lucky ( and careful seamanship )
Really enjoying the write ups , thank you
 

srm

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Hi Concerto, Next leg is presumably up the east side of Orkney and in to Kirkwall. Someone else asked about this a couple of weeks back. If you did not see that thread I would suggest keeping east of the 20m contour around the Sandy Riddle, the bank that is down stream from the Pentland Skerries. How far depends on wind and tide at the time. It can also get bumpy off Copinsay and Mull Head. Not much tidal stream from there until The String, the narrows that lead in to Kirkwall Bay where you will find life a lot more enjoyable if the tide is with you. There are good anchorages, depending on wind direction, in Deer Sound if you want to shorten the passage or wait for tide.
Hope you have an enjoyable passage.
 

westhinder

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Just been checking up how many days I have actually been sailing. Although this was day 23, it was the thirteenth day sailing. Funny that, as usually thirteen is one of my lucky numbers.
That’s good progress, especially for a singlehander.
Keep the reports coming, they are fascinating as you give us the story warts and all and with good pictures. I did my round Britain clockwise, it’s nice to witness the trip in reverse.
Keep safe!
 

srm

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The image of the lighthouse mechanism.

Most, all, of the Scots lighthouses were built by the Stephensons, same family as Robert Louis Stephenson (who was one of the black sheep of the family). There is a lovely book on the topic 'The Lighthouse Stephenson' which is an excellent read.

Jonathan

The Lighthouse Stevensons: The Extraordinary Story of the Building of the Scottish Lighthouses by the Ancestors of Robert Louis Stevenson : Bathurst, Bella, Harpercollins Publishers Ltd: Amazon.com.au: Books

The geography of Treasure Island is supposedly based on the island of Unst in Shetland. RLS spent time there while the Muckle Flugga was being built.

Muccle Flugga is the most northerly light in Britain. Surprisingly a large number of people who claim to have sailed around Britain have never heard of it, never mind seen it. I once met one couple who claimed to be on their second circumnavigation of Britain who were seeing Orkney for the first time and might go to Shetland if the weather was suitable.
 

Neeves

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I should have added that though the Stevensons are best known for their work with lighthouses, in Scotland, they also built many of the coastal harbours (though I confess I don't know which).

I can understand not wanting to know about Muccle Flugga as the storms that were suffered during its building make sailing round the north of Britain an undertaking not to be made lightly (though slightly easier now with reasonable forecasting). I imagine when one gets to Shetland and settles down with a glass of golden liquor the enormity of the rest of the voyage hits.

When Concerto gets to Shetland she will only be, roughly, one quarter way round.

Jonathan
 

Concerto

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You could also visit the Old Pulteney distillery while you are in Wick.

one of my favourite malt whiskies.
Alas I do not drink spirits or beers, so a distillery is not of interest to me.

Instead just after lunch I took the nearly half an hour each way walk to B&M for some bits. On my return I started fitting the toilet inlet hose. Had to dismantle some of the woodwork in the loo compartment for better assess. The Jubilee clips on the skin fitting were difficult to reach because of other pipework and then I had to cut away the side of the hose to remove it. Then I half extracted the hose and fitted the new hose to the skin fitting. The Jubille clips were difficult to get close together and took a number of attempts. Then I extracted the other half of the old hose, but had to cut off the rigid slightly bent end as it would not go through the holes. Fed the new hose in, only to find it was 25cm too short! What a bummer.

Having had a long chat yesterday with MUT Watersports, after buying the hose and some other bits, during which they said they will always come out as they only live 5 minutes away by car if someone needs something in an emergency. Well having no inlet pipe to the loo is quite an emergency, so I gave them a call. Problem. They had both been drinking and could not drive. They then suggested they would walk to the shop and would meet me in about 20 minutes time, which would be 18.45. They arrived and I got some more hose, but a metre longer than before. So a big thank you and a hearty recommendation for excellent service. Once back to the boat I fitted the new hose and reassembled the loo compartment.

As I am sailing in the morning, I needed to empty the bilge due to the leaky hose (well I hope it solves the leak). Then I looked at the time, it was gone 21.00 and I had not eaten. So grabbed my favourite emergency rations of Uncle Ben's golden vegetable rice and a can of chicken in white wine sauce. The rice takes 2 minutes to cook and then add the can of chicken and simmer for 10 minutes - very tasty and quick. Now just have to do the dishes and go to bed as I am up at 4.30 to leave at 5.30 (just look at the time of this post). This means I will cross the Pentland Firth at slack water and then take the tide northward to Kirkwall in the Orkneys.

Isn't boating fun!
 
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