RichardS
N/A
Have you gone over every link to see if there are any bent, corroded or stuck
Yes, it's all in vgc ..... in fact 50m of it were brand new a couple of years ago.
Richard
Have you gone over every link to see if there are any bent, corroded or stuck
My chain is 10mm. My bent link is made of 12.5mm round bar. I doubt if the difference in pulling it through the mud, compared to pulling the length of chain it replaces, could be measured. It's holding us right now![]()
I can second that. Even with my slotted bow roller it still twists itself again even after letting the whole lot out in deep water to untwist it.
Rihard
I measured it:
Changing from 6mm to 12mm chain reduced anchor depth by 25% (shear stress of the seabed increases with square of depth). So chain size does impact. A Boomerang/Banana is short - but it is immediately adjacent to the anchor. Its about choice - if I were you, I'd stick to what I have (it will make an imperceptible difference) - if I were buying from new - I'd think about it and if I could source the components/raw material easily - I'd go the thin route.
if you 'think thin' at the outset (before you have committed to 100m of 10mm chain, say) then every little helps. Cut out the big chunky swivel, use smaller chain - its cumulative.
Obviously if you already have the chain (you are unlikely to change) but other things - like the big chunky swivel (that are not contributing) might merit consideration for retirement. If you are commissioning a new yacht - its part of the equation - which you can discount for other reasons - but at least it can be something to think about.
Jonathan
a. Don't motor forward when raising.
b. Align the chain correctly from anchor to gypsy (no twist).
By doing these two things, and NOT having a swivel, my anchor comes up right 95% of the time. If this does not work The chain is jumping on the gypsy. Investigate that. Not a theory, but a geometric certainty.
Very, very simple.
The Rocna's hydro-dynamic properties make it turn and align itself with the sharp end pointing in the direction of travel. So if your boat is going forwards even slightly, it'll come up the wrong way around. You might be motoring forward, or have residual forward motion from pulling yourself up to the anchor before breaking it out.
We either turn it with a short wooden stick we keep in the anchor locker for knocking over the chain pile and shoving mud off it, or preferably reverse slowly out of the anchorage with the anchor dragging just below the waterline. That makes the anchor wash off any dirt nicely and also align itself the right way around every single time.
Our windlass is incredibly fast - too fast to watch the chain with any accuracy - and certainly fast enough to cause rotation if the anchor is not perfectly balanced.
We would tend to retrieve until the anchor is hanging free about 2m below the bow roller and then leave to settle - but it can still not be perfectly aligned, hence the Boomerang.
Jonathan

a. Don't motor forward when raising.
b. Align the chain correctly from anchor to gypsy (no twist).
By doing these two things, and NOT having a swivel, my anchor comes up right 95% of the time. If this does not work The chain is jumping on the gypsy. Investigate that. Not a theory, but a geometric certainty.
Very, very simple.
I agree. No idea why the alignment of the chain should alter as we always motor the anchor down but no doubt it does.Nope, it's not.
Richard
Nope, it's not.
Richard
Having originated this thread, I will restate: the anchor ALWAYS come up reversed by 180 degrees, not 90 degrees or any angle between, which seems to negate some theories regarding chain twist. (although no doubt someone here could correct me)
Having originated this thread, I will restate: the anchor ALWAYS come up reversed by 180 degrees, not 90 degrees or any angle between, which seems to negate some theories regarding chain twist. (although no doubt someone here could correct me)