Rigging condition

C

chris-s

Well-Known Member
Joined
24 Apr 2019
Messages
816
Visit site
So today I lowered the mast (a first for me) to change the standing rigging over the winter. This is only the second season for us with this boat and we have no idea of the age of the rigging. Unfortunately the lower shrouds are fitted around the spreader bar so I couldn’t do it with the mast up.

Looking at these fittings, I would say it’s a about time they were replaced.

F67AA34E-7619-47EF-9757-E0BB5A97CE4E.jpeg
 
You don't know how old it all is, but you're already prepared for the wallet pain that replacement involves. Do it and you won't be forever wondering if something's about to let go whenever the sailing gets fun. Don't do it and there'll always be that nagging doubt - unless you find out!
 
If you are going to keep the boat for a few years you will have to change rigging at some point so why not do it now and have at least 10 years of no worries and it will keep the insurers happy. That bottle screw looks bent so you probably need to change them as well and ensure that you have toggles to allow free articulation.
If you are not keeping the boat long term then you could either check it very carefully yourself or get a rigger to do it for you.
 
Thanks for the replies. I had already made the decision to replace the rigging back in the summer, it’s cheap enough on a small 24ft boat. I was just wondering if the appearance of the suages suggested anything.
Chris
 
chris-s said:
Thanks for the replies. I had already made the decision to replace the rigging back in the summer, it’s cheap enough on a small 24ft boat. I was just wondering if the appearance of the suages suggested anything.
Chris
Click to expand...
unless you have the rigging x-rayed you will never know what its like inside, what you have might be better that poorly made new kit.
That wire looks to be about 5mm well over specd for a 24footer
What sort of sailing are you doing, how far from the Coast
 
chris-s said:
Thanks for the replies. I had already made the decision to replace the rigging back in the summer, it’s cheap enough on a small 24ft boat. I was just wondering if the appearance of the suages suggested anything.
Chris
Click to expand...
Well it does look corroded, but it is what you can't see that could be the problem. As you say the cost is not great on a 24ft boat and peace of mind is worth a lot. I have just replaced mine on a 22ft boat for that reason.
 
That is well past it's sell by date! Talurit's and thimbles in 1x19 wire are frowned on these days - as crewman observes above, they stress the wires unevenly.
 
My Rival 31 is going in Friday for the same, replacing some of the lighting with LED at the same time. ???
 
The swages are copper and it is hardly surprising they look discoloured. Not a problem really. The problem lies in the ss wire itself especially where it enters the copper swage. Yes replace the wire. It can not be relied upon beyond 10 or 15 years. Regardless of use. This will replace the swages of course. More common now is the rolled ss fitting on the wire usually with a threaded section to go into the turnscrew barrel. RH thread.
As said you need a toggle on the bottom of the turnscrew. That bottom LH thread screw has been bent possibly in raising the mast. To straighten it would leave you worrying about it. I suspect you will have to replace the barrel to get a new LH thread and toggle. The barrel itself may well be fine. I replaced mine like yours after 30 years but i think being bronze they were still ok.
 
andsarkit said:
If you are going to keep the boat for a few years you will have to change rigging at some point so why not do it now and have at least 10 years of no worries and it will keep the insurers happy. That bottle screw looks bent so you probably need to change them as well and ensure that you have toggles to allow free articulation.
If you are not keeping the boat long term then you could either check it very carefully yourself or get a rigger to do it for you.
Click to expand...
Hi Andsarkit, can you explain the toggles please? I have to replace the bottle screws on my shrouds but wasn't aware of the difference and possible benefits.
I like the idea of open ones so that a visual check's easy.
Where do I find these at a reasonable price?
Cheers, Kilo.
 
Kilo said:
Hi Andsarkit, can you explain the toggles please? I have to replace the bottle screws on my shrouds but wasn't aware of the difference and possible benefits.
I like the idea of open ones so that a visual check's easy.
Where do I find these at a reasonable price?
Cheers, Kilo.
Click to expand...
Toggles like these where the rigging attaches to the chainplates.
1603207392962.png1603207445046.png
If you have U bolts in the deck like me then you probably don't need them as the bottle screw is free to move in all directions. If you have metal straps for chainplates then you need to ensure that the bottlescrew can freely align with the wire. You need to select the toggle to fit the fork or eye on the bottlescrew.
At a push you could use a shackle but it is likely to slip to one side of the pin and not be loaded properly.
Last time I replaced my rigging I used Sailing School and Rigging in Colchester who could supply open frame chromed bronze and also dyform wire which is slightly stronger. Jimmy Green sometimes has offers on rigging.
 
andsarkit said:
Toggles like these where the rigging attaches to the chainplates.
View attachment 101119View attachment 101120
If you have U bolts in the deck like me then you probably don't need them as the bottle screw is free to move in all directions. If you have metal straps for chainplates then you need to ensure that the bottlescrew can freely align with the wire. You need to select the toggle to fit the fork or eye on the bottlescrew.
At a push you could use a shackle but it is likely to slip to one side of the pin and not be loaded properly.
Last time I replaced my rigging I used Sailing School and Rigging in Colchester who could supply open frame chromed bronze and also dyform wire which is slightly stronger. Jimmy Green sometimes has offers on rigging.
Click to expand...

Excellent, thank you, I too have U bolts however two of the bottle screws are badly bent so maybe I should be looking at toggles.
 
Kilo said:
Excellent, thank you, I too have U bolts however two of the bottle screws are badly bent so maybe I should be looking at toggles.
Click to expand...
Check out S3i, I have used them for good effect at decent prices. Quick delivery too. They will make the whole lot up if you give them the exact dimensions.
 
As said if you have U bolts for chain plates you might not need toggles on the attachment as the U bolt can provide lots of articulation. In fact it is likely the bend occurred ina collision or in the mast raising if it was raised using a hinged base. Nota problem craning mast on.
Re U bolts. I have a deep suspicion of these for chain plates. I had a U bolt on the bow of my trailer sailer for attaching winch to haul onto trailer. Looked really robust 3/8 inch diameter U however it broke and showed that it was turned down to 5/16 inch diameter for the bolt part and nuts to enable it to sit outside the skin. I had used it for a mooring attachment so some sideways load hence fatigue. Another friend bought a new Farr 25 from Turkey. This had U bolts for chain plates. One let go obviously under sized. My point is that u bolts may be a weak link in the stays so check and perhaps go over sized. You might also consider replacing the U bolts with large saddle and bolts through the deck. This kind of thing Ronstan Stainless Steel Narrow Saddle 5/16 , $7.99 | Whitworths Marine
ol'will
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

zoidberg
Rigging Checklist
Replies
0
Views
117
zoidberg
zoidberg

Share this page

Top