rigging a topper

tyce

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does anyone have a picture of the mainsheet set up on a topper.
i bought mine in bits and am learning how to rig.
also does anyone have any tips for getting them on a roofrack single handed
 
Also, note that centre mainsheets are now allowed on Toppers, so you may have that variant..... just in case you get really confused!

PS, getting the rope traveller the right length so that it doesn't jam over the rudder stock, and stop you from lifting it is important!
 
Not quite....One of the pulleys fits to another pulley on the rope bridle... the other fits to the end of the boom.... so mainsheet is tied at the rudder end, round the pulley on the boom, back through the pulley on the rudder end, and into the hand.... one of the pulleys will have a 'hoop' or similar fitting on it for tying off the mainsheet. This is the rudder end fitting. You will also have a smaller pulley that fits on the rope bridle by the rudder... connect it all up, and it should be quite obvious....

PS... some don't have the small pulley that connects to the bridle, and just attach directly to the rope (although free to move along it)
 
Don't think the Topper usually has a small pulley on the bridle; I think it's normally just a shackle or pin through the bottom of the mainsheet block.
 
I coach the North West / North Topper squad for the under 16's (and used to sail one 10 years ago) ... there are a couple of things to think about:

Aft Mainsheet:
Main pulley is shackled onto the horse (the rope that runs over the tiller). The shackle should be one with round edges so it doesn't 'eat' the horse. The mainsheet then ties to the top of his main block, goes up through the block on the end of the boom (passes from the front side towards the rear of boat), and then down and through the main block. (If your main block is a rachet block be sure it threads through the right way or the ratchet will work against you!

Centre Main:
Main block shackles onto horse (per above). Main sheets ties to the end of the boom, passes down to the main block (going through the block on the forward side first), then upto the boom (passing into the block from the rear of the block), along the boom to another block at a simalar point on the boom to the kicker attachment point, through this block and down to the ratchet block (which is attached to the back of the dagger board case).

With both set-ups, the horse needs to be slack whilst the rudder is fitted, and then when sailing needs to be TIGHT (as tight as possible), as this provides the best sail shape when going upwind.

The toppers are quite basic to rig, but can be 'tweaked' to make them easier to sail in a competitive environment - give me a shout if you need any help.

(P.s. the above post which refers to having two blocks at the transom - one main one and one on the horse - is the set-up used in a laser. This is not class legal in toppers (if racing), and also means the horse cannot be pulled tight enough)

Jonny
 
upside down, bow first.

The 'lip' of the deck (between foredeck and sidedeck) fits nicely just infront of the front bar.

Tie the boat on on its own to begin with - ratchet strap over the top around the front bar, along to the rear bar, over the top and secure. Tie the bow down to the towing eye on the front of the car.

Trolley upside down ontop of boat - tie the axel to the roof bars, and the front of the trolley to the towing eye on the car.

Spars on last - tie all three together to form a bundle, and then tie these to the roof bars (even better is to make a bag to hold the spars - makes it did easy to tie them on).

The most important rope is the rope from the bow to the towing eye - make it tight (with padding to save the paintwork on your bonnet), as the bow of the boat will lift otherwise above 50mph (ish) - (if you get it tight enought you'll be fine upto about 90mph - gets wobbly past there! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif)

Jonny
 
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