CAPTAIN FANTASTIC
Well-Known Member
My Mirror Offshore had "triple" keels; long keel and two stabilising plates. I have never seen a Mirror Offshore without the plates
Retro fitting Bilge Keels...Discuss
- Thread starter Applescruffs
- Start date
Applescruffs
Well-Known Member
Hi Cptn,
I guess that most were fitted with plates either at the factory or as a retro, maybe mine is very early and as the official brochure from the manufacturer shows plates are definatley not fitted as standard or even part of the original design. I have an old survey giving the build date as 1969, sail number is 128, of course may not be the original sails and date may be a guess!
I guess that most were fitted with plates either at the factory or as a retro, maybe mine is very early and as the official brochure from the manufacturer shows plates are definatley not fitted as standard or even part of the original design. I have an old survey giving the build date as 1969, sail number is 128, of course may not be the original sails and date may be a guess!
VicS
Well-Known Member
Here are the bilge plates on the Mirror in my earlier "sunrise" pictures
richardabeattie
Well-Known Member
I do it the hard way. I have a cornish cormorant dinghy that sits on a foreshore with mixed sand and hard bits. I have two logs about 4" diameter and 5 ft long with a rope on each end. When I moor I slide the logs under the boat while she's still floating fix the ropes to the boat and when the tide goes out she sits down on the logs. A bit of a fiddle but it's free and it works.
Applescruffs
Well-Known Member
Vic:
many thanks for posting those those pictures and for taking the time and trouble of taking them, much appreciated. The plates actually look different to the ones fitted to Dylan Winters 'Moments' and to another that I have seen in that they are rectangular, (ish) in shape whilst the others are more 'trapezoid'. I think that the Mirror was made by more than one manufacturer, albeit to the same basic design, and the plates were fitted, or not, depending on who made them. Mine is said to have been made in 1969 by either , (according to the survey), Dell Quay Yacht Yard Emsworth, or G Drummond Bayne, Southampton as per some sales info.
Richard:
Many thanks for the posting. I had actually come up with a similar plan to use some old and rather large cylindical fenders roped or wedged under the hull, (I have 4)weighing them down so they don't float about all over the place is curently occupying most, well some, of my waking hours. Once again many thanks for taking the time to post.
many thanks for posting those those pictures and for taking the time and trouble of taking them, much appreciated. The plates actually look different to the ones fitted to Dylan Winters 'Moments' and to another that I have seen in that they are rectangular, (ish) in shape whilst the others are more 'trapezoid'. I think that the Mirror was made by more than one manufacturer, albeit to the same basic design, and the plates were fitted, or not, depending on who made them. Mine is said to have been made in 1969 by either , (according to the survey), Dell Quay Yacht Yard Emsworth, or G Drummond Bayne, Southampton as per some sales info.
Richard:
Many thanks for the posting. I had actually come up with a similar plan to use some old and rather large cylindical fenders roped or wedged under the hull, (I have 4)weighing them down so they don't float about all over the place is curently occupying most, well some, of my waking hours. Once again many thanks for taking the time to post.
Applescruffs
Well-Known Member
Hi Vic, have also posted longer reply but have just noticed no prop ! I thought that all early Offshores had an inboard fitted and later ones had the option of an out board, can tell later ones by one larger side window insted of two smaller ones. Ooops ! I'm beginning to sound a bit anal and that's not like me at all!!
VicS
Well-Known Member
I think the plates are a bit more trapezoidal than they appear to be in the photos. I should have taken one from the side but as you can see there's not a lot of space between the boats.
You are right it does not have an inboard engine. Presumably therefore not a MkI boat. When I got home I realised I should have looked at it more closely. The boat has been in the yard for over 20 years. I got to know the original owner who fitted her out a little and more recently it was owned by someone I have known fairly well for years.
You are right it does not have an inboard engine. Presumably therefore not a MkI boat. When I got home I realised I should have looked at it more closely. The boat has been in the yard for over 20 years. I got to know the original owner who fitted her out a little and more recently it was owned by someone I have known fairly well for years.
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
My Seahawk 17 was specifically designed for the Broads and East coast.
It has some bilge runners which prevent it from flopping over entirely when drying out and help keep the hull clear of stones and rocks.
Some iroko or similar bolted through would provide some assistance.
I also have a drop keel in the stub, but the Pedro using the same hull just relied on the stub.
It has some bilge runners which prevent it from flopping over entirely when drying out and help keep the hull clear of stones and rocks.
Some iroko or similar bolted through would provide some assistance.
I also have a drop keel in the stub, but the Pedro using the same hull just relied on the stub.
William_H
Well-Known Member
stub bilge keels
The photo of Lakesailers boat shows stubbs which I think would be fairly easy to attach made of fibreglass.
The longer the stubs and the wider at the base the more the load is spread over the hull so less need for internal strengthening.
Start with plyurethane foam. (fine grained usually yellow coloured) or polyester foam. Don't use polystyrene foam which has course grain and dissolves with polyester resin. carve the foam to size and shape. Lay up some layers of f/g cloth over the foam. Then glue the stubs to the hull and lay up more layers over the stubs and onto the well cleaned hull. Step the layers over the hull so that it can be faired.
Make sure that the final product of f/glass over foam is softer weaker than the hull so that any damage will be confined to the stub rather than damaging the hull.
Or for some way out ideas make/get small catamaran hulls fitted to temporary cross beams attached to the gunwhales across the cockpit. Remove before sailing. The wider the better. Angle downwards would keep boat more vertical. (Make it a trimaran.)
or grounding supports attached to the gunwhale and upper topsides made of steel or aluminium tubing bent into a flat bottomed U shape. One each side the bottom being long enough to resist sinking into the mud.
Or as you have thought cylindrical fenders. Attach to one another by webbing going under the hull perhaps in front and behind keel.Depends on hull and keel shape. More webbing or ropes pulling them up to the gunwhale and braced fore and aft by ropes.Fill them with water to help hold them below water line in place to support boat on mud.
All of the baove ideas will take time to remove and set up before and after each voyage. good luck olewill
The photo of Lakesailers boat shows stubbs which I think would be fairly easy to attach made of fibreglass.
The longer the stubs and the wider at the base the more the load is spread over the hull so less need for internal strengthening.
Start with plyurethane foam. (fine grained usually yellow coloured) or polyester foam. Don't use polystyrene foam which has course grain and dissolves with polyester resin. carve the foam to size and shape. Lay up some layers of f/g cloth over the foam. Then glue the stubs to the hull and lay up more layers over the stubs and onto the well cleaned hull. Step the layers over the hull so that it can be faired.
Make sure that the final product of f/glass over foam is softer weaker than the hull so that any damage will be confined to the stub rather than damaging the hull.
Or for some way out ideas make/get small catamaran hulls fitted to temporary cross beams attached to the gunwhales across the cockpit. Remove before sailing. The wider the better. Angle downwards would keep boat more vertical. (Make it a trimaran.)
or grounding supports attached to the gunwhale and upper topsides made of steel or aluminium tubing bent into a flat bottomed U shape. One each side the bottom being long enough to resist sinking into the mud.
Or as you have thought cylindrical fenders. Attach to one another by webbing going under the hull perhaps in front and behind keel.Depends on hull and keel shape. More webbing or ropes pulling them up to the gunwhale and braced fore and aft by ropes.Fill them with water to help hold them below water line in place to support boat on mud.
All of the baove ideas will take time to remove and set up before and after each voyage. good luck olewill
Applescruffs
Well-Known Member
Many thanks for such a brilliant idea! you know , you guys are amazing! This is the first time I have ever even looked at a 'forum, 'blog' or whatever it is called and the response has been fantastic,. thanks again for taking the trouble of posting and for giving me inspiration!
ruby6511
New Member
hi, i have just stumbled upon this page and saw my boat marie of itchenor! may be a little late to relpy to say the least but id like to let you know she is no longer on the mud but on a deep water mooring in essex. We have stripped her cabin sides to reveal the original wood, repainted her in a darker shade and replaced the bow sprit! 
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
I thought I had dropped into a black hole till I noticed the date of posting!
FWIW the mirror offshore was available with single long keel or with extra bilge plates so you could dry out upright.
FWIW the mirror offshore was available with single long keel or with extra bilge plates so you could dry out upright.
