thinwater
Well-Known Member
They will have eye splices. The cut ends are tapered and buried.
You can have they pre-made, but if you splice them in place you can use larger line.
Replacing Wire Guard Rails with Dyneema?
- Thread starter CJ13
- Start date
You can have they pre-made, but if you splice them in place you can use larger line.
ash2020
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that. I need to slacken mine to let dogs on board but I guess I can eye splice onto pelican clips.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
Another easy trick, to create slack, is a whoopee sling splice. Quite a few riggers are using these on gates.
This was on a million dollar cat at a boat show.
This is on my boat.
This was on a million dollar cat at a boat show.
This is on my boat.
steveallan
Well-Known Member
Why not just remove the plastic coating?
KeithMD
Well-Known Member
Daverw
Well-Known Member
We did ours last year, use dyneema with braded cover to provide UV and abrasion protection. Hard eyes on each end, one done off boat and the end one done after threading through stantion. Tensioned using whipped turns. Been good for last year, had to retension about 3 weeks after but ok since. The larger diameter than 5mm wire is great.
Neeves
Well-Known Member
Often you find that under the cover the wire is rusting (one reason not to have covered wire) and you may also find broken wires (which are 'safe' under a cover but a menace if exposed). Both form part of the reasons why they, covered wires, are now outlawed, have been for decades, on racing yachts.
The failure of Dyneema on Comanche was as a result of extended sawing of the dyneema by a headsail sheet in a downwind race, mainland to Hawaii I think. It could be relevant on a cruising yacht - though many cruising sailors take care of their rigging - money tends to be a critical issue.
As Daverw implies 5mm dyneema is 'OK' but bigger would be better, kinder to hands etc. If we were to do it again we would use larger, possibly dictated by the holes in the stanchions - which are sized (the holes) for stainless wire.
Jonathan
CJ13
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the replies- very useful info, so I’m convinced Dyneema is the way forward. It just need to decide if I go for Single Braid or Double.
Single B I know I can splice easily, but I struggle splicing a ‘tight’ DB including the cover.
Single B I know I can splice easily, but I struggle splicing a ‘tight’ DB including the cover.
Boathook
Well-Known Member
My boat has stainless steel guard wires and has done since new in late 70's. not to sure of diameter but possibly 5mm or the imperial equivalent. Have to renew the lashings every 10 years or so.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
Good point. I forget the details. I heard it was bungled jibe. Either way ....
If a sheet bears on the lifeline you want a cover whether wire (hard on the sheet) or Dyneema (hard on the Dyneema). I should be loose enough that you can slide it to the side for inspection. I had covers like this on my PDQ in one spot.
Ian_Edwards
Well-Known Member
I changed the life lines on my boat 7 years ago.
The stanchions have holes drilled and polished for the top life line and a tube fitted through the stanchion for the lower life line, similar to these:
Standard Stainless Steel Tapered Stanchions | Proboat | Proboat
I used white 6mm D12 dyneema, breaking strain about 4 tons, plus or minus, depending on the manufacturer.
I spliced a long eye into each end.
I found that I could get the long splice through the stanchions by first threading a short length of whipping twine though the hole, passing through the long splice and then putting twine back through the hole. I then used the twine to pull the long splice through the hole. I couldn't push the long spice though the holes in the stanchions, but they pulled through quite easily. I crow hitched one end to the loop on the pulpit, and used a lashing of 3mm Dyneema to tension the life line at the other end.
7 years on I can see a small amount of chaffing as the Dyneema goes through the stanchions, but not enough to cause problem.
However, I was very surprised at the amount of "stretch", really packing or initial settling in, I got when I tensioned the life line. I used Brummel spices, with a long tapered bury.
Dyneema has good UV resistance.
You can take them off and wash and inspect them in the winter.
I wouldn't go back to SS wire, it has a UTS of less than 1.5tons, and is much less comfortable in use.
The stanchions have holes drilled and polished for the top life line and a tube fitted through the stanchion for the lower life line, similar to these:
Standard Stainless Steel Tapered Stanchions | Proboat | Proboat
I used white 6mm D12 dyneema, breaking strain about 4 tons, plus or minus, depending on the manufacturer.
I spliced a long eye into each end.
I found that I could get the long splice through the stanchions by first threading a short length of whipping twine though the hole, passing through the long splice and then putting twine back through the hole. I then used the twine to pull the long splice through the hole. I couldn't push the long spice though the holes in the stanchions, but they pulled through quite easily. I crow hitched one end to the loop on the pulpit, and used a lashing of 3mm Dyneema to tension the life line at the other end.
7 years on I can see a small amount of chaffing as the Dyneema goes through the stanchions, but not enough to cause problem.
However, I was very surprised at the amount of "stretch", really packing or initial settling in, I got when I tensioned the life line. I used Brummel spices, with a long tapered bury.
Dyneema has good UV resistance.
You can take them off and wash and inspect them in the winter.
I wouldn't go back to SS wire, it has a UTS of less than 1.5tons, and is much less comfortable in use.
