Replacing standard CAV with a "Racor" Fakor?

There are also economies to be had in not throwing away perfectly good filters. I've changed mine twice in the 15 years since I fitted them

I don't quite understand this. How do you know a Racor (or similar) filter element is still good? Surely for peace of mind it is worth fitting a new one every couple of years at least? Current cost of a Racor 2010PM-OR Fuel Filter Element for Racor 500 (30 Micron) is just over a tenner from ASAP.
 
Last edited:
I don't understand this. How do you know a Racor (or similar) filter is still good? Does it capture clag in a different way to a CAV filter? Can you clean it; if so how? Even so, surely for peace of mind it is worth fitting a new one every couple of years at least?
Absolutely, many of these filters have steel parts which will rust if they trap any water.
 
Errrr ...... so it was the housing that was weeping rather than the filter, in which case I'm not sure how changing the filter would affect the seal in the housing lid but let's leave it.

Richard

I think two different Racor copies are being talked about. The Racor 500 has a drop-in filter which is completely enclosed. This thread is about a copy of the Racor 100 series which is a screw-on system.
 
I think two different Racor copies are being talked about. The Racor 500 has a drop-in filter which is completely enclosed. This thread is about a copy of the Racor 100 series which is a screw-on system.
The one I have the filter screws onto the underside of the housing and the water separator screws onto the filter.

Filter that came with it did no seal properly so diesel wept down the filter.
 
The one I have the filter screws onto the underside of the housing and the water separator screws onto the filter.

Filter that came with it did no seal properly so diesel wept down the filter.

Yes, that's the arrangement for the Racor 100 series. With my cheapie I keep the spare plastic bowl already attached to a spare good filter for a quick change if needed.
 
Hmmmm. On a privately owned boat we are all pros, so nobody ever makes an error, nothing ever happens that the owner (who is always massively experienced) did not forsee, and things don't go on at sea that are challenging.

Let him change his filters. Those Cav ones are a crap design, time consuming and awkward to change. I always feel like I'm over tightening the bolt to get them to seal too. I'd hate to have to do that at sea on a lumpy night. That's when the bolt will shear isn't it.

Yes yes, I know theyve been around forever, have been used without issues by loads of people, but simple screw on, or better still, drop in filter housings are easier and simpler to use

Of course we don't need that in a dismal sea with onshore stiffening breeze, entering an unfamiliar harbour at night because the passage took longer than we anticipated, and we took some dodgy fuel from a fuel berth we didn't know had a bad reputation cos it was somewhere else.

Jeez
 
Is the filter a 10, 20 or 30 micron ? Looks good though.
It's not actually marked. I think the spec for the original R12T is 10 micron so, hopefully, that spec has been copied. I guess we'll see!

The only problem I found was that the filter and bowl had been attached way too tightly and I had to give it a bit of oomph with a chain filter wrench (my strap wrenches are all on the boat) to get it off, marking the filter case in the process. Looked like it had been assembled dry with no lube to the seals. As suggested above, I have ordered another filter and bowl so I can have it ready assembled for change when necessary.
 
It's not actually marked. I think the spec for the original R12T is 10 micron so, hopefully, that spec has been copied. I guess we'll see!

The only problem I found was that the filter and bowl had been attached way too tightly and I had to give it a bit of oomph with a chain filter wrench (my strap wrenches are all on the boat) to get it off, marking the filter case in the process. Looked like it had been assembled dry with no lube to the seals. As suggested above, I have ordered another filter and bowl so I can have it ready assembled for change when necessary.
I think you have done well but I would still probably ditch the filter element and use one that you know the pedigree, just IMHO - perhaps keep the facor one as a spare
 
Can anyone recommend a three way t piece valve to create a system of two and a cutover valve?
All sorts here Marine Valves and Valve Spares

I found it cheaper to use four plain valves than three-way ones. Whisper it not, but I used copper pipe, some of it soldered. I'm clearly going to die an untimely death as a result, but I've had no problems in 15 years.

Yes, there are valid reasons why copper fittings shouldn't be used, but as long as the same few ccs of fuel don't stay in contact for months and years at a time, it's unlikely to be an issue.
 
Thanks everyone amazing post saved lots of money, one tiny warning, a while ago I got a telling off from surveyor because I had put rubber squeeze bulb in diesel line to help bleeding and he was adamant that I had compromised my insurance policy, make of it what you will just trying to be helpful, the surveyor retired now was well respected and very experienced, didn’t check with insurance company why go looking for trouble it was easier to replace pipe.
 
Top