Replacing Headlining

davidpbo

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Getting to the end of removing the old headlining and intending to vacuum the entire boat a couple of times.

What would people suggest to wipe down the exposed surfaces to be re-covered with?


When re-fitting it is suggested that you start glueing in the centre of the panel and work out. How did people get on with this as it means finishing off a lot of edges in situ.

I was considering making off one long edge (where the vinyl has to be folded back on the foam behind) and starting glueing the panel up from that edge.
 

VicS

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Getting to the end of removing the old headlining and intending to vacuum the entire boat a couple of times.

What would people suggest to wipe down the exposed surfaces to be re-covered with?


When re-fitting it is suggested that you start glueing in the centre of the panel and work out. How did people get on with this as it means finishing off a lot of edges in situ.

I was considering making off one long edge (where the vinyl has to be folded back on the foam behind) and starting glueing the panel up from that edge.

The solvent/thinner/cleaner for the adhesive to wipe down...........

I don't think you will be able to position the lining properly if you try to wok from the middle

I bought all my materials from Hawke House and followed the instructions in the leaflet they supplied.

Liquid adhesive on the GRP, spray adhesive on the foam backing. Started by accurately positioning the top edges.

Roof lining I did on ply boards using a water proof PVA adhesive working on the siting room floor!

I dont envy anyone doing it for the first time.

Several tricks you can think up to make a better, neater job second time around.

Good ventilation AND the correct organic vapours mask both essential when using solvent based adhesives .
 
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pagoda

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The solvent/thinner/cleaner for the adhesive to wipe down...........

I don't think you will be able to position the lining properly if you try to wok from the middle

I bought all my materials from Hawke House and followed the instructions in the leaflet they supplied.

Liquid adhesive on the GRP, spray adhesive on the foam backing. Started by accurately positioning the top edges.

Roof lining I did on ply boards using a water proof PVA adhesive working on the siting room floor!

I dont envy anyone doing it for the first time.

Several tricks you can think up to make a better, neater job second time around.

Good ventilation AND the correct organic vapours mask both essential when using solvent based adhesives .



I agree with everything VicS has said.
It's got to be the most disgusting job you can get up to on a boat (barring toilets/holding tanks).
If you can rope in some help with positioning fabric before sticking it do so... It is very difficult handling sheets of material/vinyl/board with glue etc , on your own. Been there done that. turned the air bright blue with frustration..
Hawke House are a good choice of supply & info.

Graeme
 

GrahamM376

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Good ventilation AND the correct organic vapours mask both essential when using solvent based adhesives .

This is very important. I had some nasty side effects from the adhesive which lasted several months and quite a few medical tests. If you can, use forced ventilation as the fumes will settle low down.
 

davidpbo

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Materials, adhesives and instructions from Hawk House as I want guilt free access to their expertise, also the other source of foam backed vinyl I found was more translucent and did not appear to be bonded quite as firmly. It is they that suggest starting from the centre of a panel and leaving 150mm around the edge to be finished and stuck up at the end. I have some long sections with visible edges in awkard places which is why I am considering fìinishing the edge off before fitting. I have the original panels to work to.

This is very important. I had some nasty side effects from the adhesive which lasted several months and quite a few medical tests. If you can, use forced ventilation as the fumes will settle low down.

Thank you for the warning, I am aware of the danger.

The boat is small with a good size entrance and forward hatch, I shall be strategically placing a fan and am awaiting advice from the face mask company as to the appropriate filters (Tyco Scott2). I have particulate (bought for foam removal) and gas but suspect I need a vapour filter.

I would be grateful if someone could supply a link to the type of PVA adhesive refered to, I know it is not the normal woodworking variety.
 
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davidpbo

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Use linen backed not paper backed wallpaper adhesive this allows for slippage - movement prior to final positioning and stapling on the back - This is what the professionals use.

That being the case I wonder why don't Hawke House suggest it?

I am going to start with the adhesives I bought from them but am prepared for frustration.
 

pagoda

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This is very important. I had some nasty side effects from the adhesive which lasted several months and quite a few medical tests. If you can, use forced ventilation as the fumes will settle low down.


And FGS don't even think about making a cuppa in the middle of the job. The solvent from the glue will happily go bang, mixed with air....
Make a flask up before you start?
 

VicS

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Materials, adhesives and instructions from Hawk House as I want guilt free access to their expertise, also the other source of foam backed vinyl I found was more translucent and did not appear to be bonded quite as firmly. It is they that suggest starting from the centre of a panel and leaving 150mm around the edge to be finished and stuck up at the end. I have some long sections with visible edges in awkard places which is why I am considering fìinishing the edge off before fitting. I have the original panels to work to.



Thank you for the warning, I am aware of the danger.

The boat is small with a good size entrance and forward hatch, I shall be strategically placing a fan and am awaiting advice from the face mask company as to the appropriate filters (Tyco Scott2). I have particulate (bought for foam removal) and gas but suspect I need a vapour filter.

I would be grateful if someone could supply a link to the type of PVA adhesive refered to, I know it is not the normal woodworking variety.

The PVA adhesive I used was was a water resistant wood working adhesive...... it was supplied by Hawke House.

My organic vapours mask was also supplied by HH.
It was very good.. I could not smell the solvent based adhesive while wearing it BUT there is an upper limit to the concentration it can handle so good ventilation is still essential ......... While doing the lining its a good time to remove and refurb or replace the windows..... need to really to do the lining round the window openings.... and it helps with the ventilation!

Couple of tips which may be useful.

Edges that will not be hidden can be "hemmed" by stripping off about 1cm of foam and turning the vinyl back and sticking it down.

Some edges can be hidden by allowing the vinyl to lap onto the adjoining surface after stripping off the foam and the covering that on the adjoining surface with a hemmed edge. Similar in a way to doing corners when wall papering.
 

nimbusgb

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Materials, adhesives and instructions from Hawk House as I want guilt free access to their expertise, also the other source of foam backed vinyl I found was more translucent and did not appear to be bonded quite as firmly. It is they that suggest starting from the centre of a panel and leaving 150mm around the edge to be finished and stuck up at the end. I have some long sections with visible edges in awkard places which is why I am considering fìinishing the edge off before fitting. I have the original panels to work to.



Thank you for the warning, I am aware of the danger.

The boat is small with a good size entrance and forward hatch, I shall be strategically placing a fan and am awaiting advice from the face mask company as to the appropriate filters (Tyco Scott2). I have particulate (bought for foam removal) and gas but suspect I need a vapour filter.

I would be grateful if someone could supply a link to the type of PVA adhesive refered to, I know it is not the normal woodworking variety.

If you are using solvent based adhesives then consider the fan you are using. You may need an explosion proof motor or at least use one to blow fresh air in rather than extract fume laden stuff out!
 

Robin

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I am SO glad we decided to get an expert in to reline the forecabin and a corner of the owner's cabin on our latest boat, The residual fumes still bothered me two days later when I just went to see how it looked. Our guy was superb, but not very convenient for UK use. he brought his own high capacity air blower, I don't know if it was a flameproof motor one but the boat and he survived. We did have multiple (9) opening portlights and (5) overhead hatches for airflow.
 

Marsupial

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I relined my Mirage back in 97 mounted the new lining on ply, glad I did the finish was good, as others have said getting the old stuff off is the worst bit. I wish I had seen a modern (1999) jeanneau though the method of fixing the boards is far superior to screws and cups. I would suggest mounting the new lining on boards if you can.
 

pvb

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I'd suggest getting a professional fitter in. Headlinings are absolutely horrible to fit, and if you haven't done it before it's unlikely you'll ever be happy with the result. If you can glue the stuff on to panels first, that would make it a more feasible DIY job.
 

davidpbo

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I'd suggest getting a professional fitter in. Headlinings are absolutely horrible to fit, and if you haven't done it before it's unlikely you'll ever be happy with the result. If you can glue the stuff on to panels first, that would make it a more feasible DIY job.

Fitter not an option. It's a trailer sailor so don't want added weight of more panels and shapes too complicated. All materials already purchased. The job may not be perfect but it will be a lot better than it was before.
 
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