Replacing backlight with LEDs in Raymarine E-Series E120 display

I remove the transformers and superglue the Mosfet straight onto the board.

Never been an issue and I also heat shrink the connections of the legs to strengthen the whole thing
 
@Const69

the PWM wire is fine.

try switching the other 2 round on the Mosfet.

I have also seen the PWM part of the E120 die in the past but 9/10 its wiring.

Also, if you have a flicker in your display every 5 seconds, try a 100ohm resister instead of the PWM wire.

usually sorts it
No flicker on display at all. I will try to switch other 2 wires, nothing else to try. By the way PWM signal is the same regardless of the back light bezel position, around 6.5-6.8v all the time, never go up or down.
 
the PWM voltage won't change IIRC

I have also had a thought. What LEDs are you using?
I use the same as topic starter 12v LEDs ...
 

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I could not find a good description of this process, so I have written one to help anyone else who wants to fix their display.

See Anastasia - Replacing backlight with LEDs in Raymarine E-Series E120 display

hi Phil, congratulations for the post, I am retrieving the material for editing on mine e 120, I wanted to ask you if the glitch you are referring to is just a temporary flicker of the lighting dimmer or a vertical gray band appears as seen in the link you tube:
seeing the vertical band I worried enough to consider the dimmer through a separate circuit with remote control. I therefore wanted to know if the gray band is temporary during the display brightness adjustment or is it permanent. Thanks for the reply
 
Thanks to the excellent description of backlight replacement by Phil May and Andrea Twig, my E120 is back in full working order. Job done by "electrickery" family engineer in just 5 hours. Grateful skipper...
 
Hi dear
I have 2 displays with the backlight problem but get no luck with the dimmer circuit... LEDs works perfectly once power up from the capacitor direct but doesn’t work at all once connected via MOSFET... I tried 3 different MOSFETs using cross reference... Get around 6.87v PWM signal from the point mentioned by topic starter but nothing happens when connected gate leg there... Something tricky as it absolutely same on the both displays I tried to fix... Any advice? Thanks?
I have 2 displays with the backlight problem but get no luck with the dimmer circuit... LEDs works perfectly once power up from the capacitor direct but doesn’t work at all once connected via MOSFET... I tried 3 different MOSFETs using cross reference... Get around 6.87v PWM signal from the point mentioned by topic starter but nothing happens when connected gate leg there... Something tricky as it absolutely same on the both displays I tried to fix... Any advice? Thanks?

Hello, did you find a solution? I also dial 6.87 v and the lights do not turn on well, how did you solve it?
 
Dear all,

I just have replaced the lamp with LEDs and connected to the legs of the capacitor everything works great, many thanks to topicaster!

But I have problem with dimming. As soon as I connect LEDs via MOSFET (I have got BUK455-600B), the backlight stays OFF at all times, no matter what backlight level I set with the knob.

I have tried several MOSFETs thinking that one might have been defective, but the result is the same.

Any ideas on why this happens?

Is there any other pin/pinplate to connect to get the PWM signal? Is there any way to know if there is a PWM signal coming to the pinplate at all?

Thanks in advance,
Regards,
Slava
 
sounds like there is something wrong with the power board. I have seen them lose PWM functionality in the past. I fixed it by replacing the power board.

Sometimes the LED's flicker every few seconds. If that happens put a 100 ohm resistor into the PWM signal part like so.

IMG_20200324_162557[15125].jpg
 
hi Phil, congratulations for the post, I am retrieving the material for editing on mine e 120, I wanted to ask you if the glitch you are referring to is just a temporary flicker of the lighting dimmer or a vertical gray band appears as seen in the link you tube:
seeing the vertical band I worried enough to consider the dimmer through a separate circuit with remote control. I therefore wanted to know if the gray band is temporary during the display brightness adjustment or is it permanent. Thanks for the reply

That grey band is a failed screen, LCD screen needs replaced

Here is one that was a step further and actually turned upside down.

IMG_20191128_144014[5997].jpg

I have a screen here if you need one
 
Hi, Did everyone found any pwm point on the control circuit ? Im thinking if this can drive an optocoupler and then the mosfet.
 
Seems this works only with 12v power supply. With 24v the pwm signal is not working...

I found that also Mashak. I tried all different kinds of Mosfets and wiring but only 12v would dim like factory set up.

Thinking about it now would it be a different place for the 24v PWM signal on the board?
 
I found that also Mashak. I tried all different kinds of Mosfets and wiring but only 12v would dim like factory set up.

Thinking about it now would it be a different place for the 24v PWM signal on the board?

I suppose if a kind of dummy load needed instead of CCFL transformers for pwm to work. Seems like pic regulates or change the way of pwm working when the main voltage changes.
 
Its also worth noting, that when 24v is involved in the system that 12v LEDs wont work

I had this problem on a Tugboat. All of their raymarine network was 24v, I had repaired their MFD with 12v LEDs and thought I could just run it on the 12v power supply however this was not the case.

I ended up having to run the LED backlight power completely separate to the MFD. On an industrial boat a dimmer switch is ok but not acceptable for other uses.
 
I could not find a good description of this process, so I have written one to help anyone else who wants to fix their display.

See Anastasia - Replacing backlight with LEDs in Raymarine E-Series E120 display
Hi,
Apologies for what is clearly a noddy question.


There is a discussion about 12 & 24 V systems and getting the right LED voltage to match.
I was on a yacht last week with a broken E120 backlight
How do you know what voltage is it because you can get E120's in 12 and 24 V supply options or is it due to something inside the unit which needs to be tested?
Thanks in advance
 
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