Removing Deks Olje?

[mikecontessa26]

Need to remove a fair bit of this, previous owner used it on the cabin teak floor and the tiller, both look dull and sticky/gloopy, not a good finish i think it's darkened the wood a lot too.

I assume the best way is sanding but it seems like it'll be sticky and use loads of sandpaper?

 

[Mistroma]

Sounds as if it is the No.2 variety. We used No. 1 for many years and it normally just soaks into the wood. However, the wood did achieve a high gloss just like varnish after ten or more years. So No. 1 can look very good (see this pic. of our 29 year old tiller).

http://www.mistroma1.webspace.virgi...utherly_95_images/Southerly95_2009/Tiller.jpg

I imagine that the original Nitromors might have worked but have heard that the version is rubbish. You could try a caustic soda solution to see if that works. It will shift most paints if left for a while. I'm a bit dubious about it working on D2 but work a try. Wear gloves & goggles, even very dilute caustic solution can damage an eye irreversibly after only a few seconds.

I know that D1 soaks into the wood and think D2 will do the same so don't know how well varnish will stick once it has been stripped. Should be OK but you can always try D1. I never went back to varnish and wood looked the same and end of season as at the beginning. But that was after many years of coating so that it built up. We might have been lucky that it was easy to get back to bare wood when we started using D1. I've heard others complain that it flaked off just like varnish. Sounds as if it works best if it can soak into new teak.

 

[Woodlouse]

If its sticky then I'd be trying to see if it'll rub off with acetone.

I've never had any trouble with D1 under varnish and quite often give spars a few coats when bare wood before leaving it to dry and varnishing as usual.

 

[Gordonmc]

Sanding Deks is hopeless.
Your glasspaper will clog and its even worse with a power sander.
The best trick is to use a scraper. I use a sharp plane blade and a hook-shave for the rounded bits. Even broken bits of glass for the small detail.
Then a light rub down with 200 wet 'n dry and wipe with degreaserbefore refinishing.

 

[mikecontessa26]

great... thanks for replies, sounds like no easy solutions, i'm sure a good finish can be acheived with Deks but looks like the previous owner just poured it on from the tin. I like a good varnish finish if i take the tiller off for the winter degradation won't be an issue as it's usually under the bimini anyway during summer

 

[Mistroma]

If its sticky then I'd be trying to see if it'll rub off with acetone.

I've never had any trouble with D1 under varnish and quite often give spars a few coats when bare wood before leaving it to dry and varnishing as usual.

I didn't suggest acetone because I though it would probably evaporate before it had time to dissolve the D2. Good to know that D1 doesn't impair subsequent varnishing. I hadn't tried it as D1 worked so well on my boat.

Agree that sanding wouldn't work as D2 is pretty "gummy" stuff. I did think that a Skarsten scraper might work and see that something similar has been suggested.

 

[DJE]

I find that my fender lines take it off my rubbing strake quite quickly!

 

[rob2]

According to the instructions on the tin, to refurbish D2, apply D1 over it to liquify it and wipe off. I haven't tried to remove it as such, but would imagine that with a sponge scourer and lint-free rag you can quite easily strip off the finish once the D1 has softened it. Acetone is likely to affect the oil which has penetrated into the wood, which may help prepare the surface immediately prior to varnishing teak.

Rob.