Recrimping?

[petem]

I know this is a bit PBO'y but what the hell (it might generate some discussion).

I've noticed a little verdigris on the terminals of the rocker switches for my battery master switches. I've cleaned them up but for the sake of £20 would like to replace them.

By and large, the wiring on my boat is pretty sound, without too much bodging in evidence. However, looking back at my photos I'm not very happy with the spade terminals as there seems to be far too much metal on show. So my questions are:

Would this have been the original crimping?
Would I be wise to re-crimp them (I have proper wire strippers and ratchet crimps onboard) with insulated crimp terminals?
What gauge would these wires be (12v)?

 

[stelican]

If it aint broke don't fix it
Look pretty good for their age, Also fully insulated would probably not fit as terminals are very close together.
Corrosion protect the terminals and wire ends with a good spraying of clear Waxoyl you will only need to do it once

 

[petem]

On a related topic, I can thoroughly recommend these contact cleaning pencils...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fibreglass-Abrasive-Cleaning-Pencil-Refills/dp/B003YSWJDG

 

[Hadenough]

I’d just clean them and put some heat shrink over the exposed spades, replace with a dab of contralube.

 

[MapisM]

If it aint broke don't fix it

Normally, I'm a strong supporter of this principle.
But I must say that I would hate having connections like the above anywhere in my boat, regardless of the current and the function involved.
In fact, my answer to the question about whether they are FL original is I don't know, but I'd be surprised if it were.
Btw P, I'm not sure to have understood what those switches are: push buttons that turn on/off relais connecting/disconnecting the battery banks?

 

[petem]

Normally, I'm a strong supporter of this principle.
But I must say that I would hate having connections like the above anywhere in my boat, regardless of the current and the function involved.
In fact, my answer to the question about whether they are FL original is I don't know, but I'd be surprised if it were.
Btw P, I'm not sure to have understood what those switches are: push buttons that turn on/off relais connecting/disconnecting the battery banks?

P, they are Carling Contura momentary (On)Off(On) switches that power a (latching?) relay for connecting / disconnecting the batteries. These are the switches if you're interested:

https://rockerswitchpros.com/product/vld1-ac0b/

Curiously, you can see from the wiring diagram (https://rockerswitchpros.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/VLD1-A60B-Wiring-Diagram.jpg) that there is an independent LED lamp. This works perfectly one side however doesn't light on the other. I assumed it was a blown bulb however there is a permanent 12v across terminals 7 and 8. So I think I not only have a faulty switch but also an issue at the relay end (deep joy!).

It's just one of niggly things that need to be fixed.

 

[stelican]

I’d just clean them and put some heat shrink over the exposed spades, replace with a dab of contralube.

Heat shrink v good idea don't think there is enough space for the conventional terminals.

 

[halcyon]

P, they are Carling Contura momentary (On)Off(On) switches that power a (latching?) relay for connecting / disconnecting the batteries. These are the switches if you're interested:


Curiously, you can see from the wiring diagram that there is an independent LED lamp. This works perfectly one side however doesn't light on the other. I assumed it was a blown bulb however there is a permanent 12v across terminals 7 and 8. So I think I not only have a faulty switch but also an issue at the relay end (deep joy!).

It's just one of niggly things that need to be fixed.

If that is your switch, you only have one LED for backlighting a legend.

Pin 7 and 8 are pos and neg for LED, so you should have 12 volt across 7 & 8.

Brian

 

[BruceK]

Would this have been the original crimping?

I'd be surprised if it was. That is a DIY job, or at least a job I'd do. From OEM I'd have expected to find ones, high temp, entirely enclosed in a plastic sheathing, soldered, and will additionally where possible have a small self tapping screw and lock washer to pin into the male terminal. (At least that is how mine was wired although I have failed to find a local spade connector that has this last feature when rewiring mine.)

 

[petem]

If that is your switch, you only have one LED for backlighting a legend.

Pin 7 and 8 are pos and neg for LED, so you should have 12 volt across 7 & 8.

Brian

Brian, that's not my understanding. There are wires that come from the engine room enclosure where the relays are housed. These connect to 7 & 8 and give an indication of whether the battery relays are on or off.

The Starboard side switch works perfectly, press "Switch Down" the batteries are connected and the light illuminates. Press "Switch Up" and the batteries are disconnected and the light goes out.

Port side the light remains illuminated (or it would if the bulb hadn't blown) irrespective of whether the batteries are on or off.

 

[jrudge]

looks original to me based on what is my boat. If it works just leave it !

 

[julians]

looks original to me based on what is my boat. If it works just leave it !

Was going to say the same, looks just like the original wiring on my windy.

 

[petem]

But I must say that I would hate having connections like the above anywhere in my boat, regardless of the current and the function involved.

P, how were the connections made on your boat?

How would you improve the ones in my pic?

 

[halcyon]

Brian, that's not my understanding. There are wires that come from the engine room enclosure where the relays are housed. These connect to 7 & 8 and give an indication of whether the battery relays are on or off.

The Starboard side switch works perfectly, press "Switch Down" the batteries are connected and the light illuminates. Press "Switch Up" and the batteries are disconnected and the light goes out.

Port side the light remains illuminated (or it would if the bulb hadn't blown) irrespective of whether the batteries are on or off.

They are backlighting LED's used as indicators, if you have 12 volt across LED then the relay is engaged, does the port relay turn off ?

Brian

 

[petem]

They are backlighting LED's used as indicators, if you have 12 volt across LED then the relay is engaged, does the port relay turn off ?

Brian

Port relay is turning on and off as it should, it's just the indicator that has permanent 12v. Iit's like someone has wired the indicator (at the other end) as if it were a backlight, i.e. no dependent on the relay.

Typically the enclosure housing the relay requires lying across the engines!

 

[halcyon]

Port relay is turning on and off as it should, it's just the indicator that has permanent 12v. Iit's like someone has wired the indicator (at the other end) as if it were a backlight, i.e. no dependent on the relay.

Typically the enclosure housing the relay requires lying across the engines!

All they need to do is take a feed off the switched side of the relay, relay closed power on LED on, relay open no power no LED

May be wired to live side of relay, thus permanent 12 volt feed.

Brian

 

[BruceK]

looks original to me based on what is my boat. If it works just leave it !

Was going to say the same, looks just like the original wiring on my windy.

Well I'm surprised. I find that type invariably gives problems in the long term. All my switches spade connections are fully sealed with a lock down screw and all switches backed on to anti condensation heaters (orange strips).
The switches had to be replaced as the plastic housings had become brittle, but the wiring and connectors was still perfect

 

[petem]

All they need to do is take a feed off the switched side of the relay, relay closed power on LED on, relay open no power no LED

May be wired to live side of relay, thus permanent 12 volt feed.

Brian

Yep, completely agree.

 

[petem]

Well I'm surprised. I find that type invariably gives problems in the long term. All my switches spade connections are fully sealed with a lock down screw and all switches backed on to anti condensation heaters (orange strips).
The switches had to be replaced as the plastic housings had become brittle, but the wiring and connectors was still perfect

Interesting. What's worse in my case is that the switches are under the helm seat where the compressor for the cockpit fridge is housed. Therefore, they do suffer from moisture in the air.

 

[halcyon]

Well I'm surprised. I find that type invariably gives problems in the long term. All my switches spade connections are fully sealed with a lock down screw and all switches backed on to anti condensation heaters (orange strips).
The switches had to be replaced as the plastic housings had become brittle, but the wiring and connectors was still perfect

A lot is down to the original design and materials, the helm panels we did for Sealine are 25 - 35 years old and still going. Though they are now suffering from the plastic degrading, so we referb by fitting the original harness and PCB to another front with new switches. The difference is they are all soldered construction, switches and connecting harnesses, no crimping or spade to corrode.

Brian