Really small heater for 18ft boat

[mikemonty]

I haven't read the full thread but would say that this kind of slanging match has no place on this forum (or any other). A serious question was asked and deserves a serious (or at least amusing) answer.

Well read the bloody full thread!
And as you have ably demonstrated, anyone can voice their opinion on any subject in spite of their obvious (indeed, candidly stated!) ignorance of it.
For that reason amongst others - this forum is the perfect place for this kind of slanging match.

 

[onesea]

When I'm sleeping in my Micro Challenger, it can get a bit chilly overnight...

Something like an eberspacher or a charcoal burner with a chimney are a bit overkill. Is there anything more practical that might help?

I've looked at a 300w 12v heater, but that works out at about 25A, so would flatten my battery in 4 hours!

any other ideas?

thanks!

Keep mikemonty and VicS near by and there will be enough friction to keep you warm for months?

Although you might just wish to be left out in the cold

 

[reginaldon]

Well read the bloody full thread!
And as you have ably demonstrated, anyone can voice their opinion on any subject in spite of their obvious (indeed, candidly stated!) ignorance of it.
For that reason amongst others - this forum is the perfect place for this kind of slanging match.

Enough heat being generated here to keep any cabin at blood heat - perhaps a bit of light might help.
Are all fora degenerating to the level of the Lounge?

 

[Zagato]

Had a new Vapalux for about 3 yrs and use on a Cornish shrimper and in a tent. Always light outside, always turn out when I turn in. Does the job with old world charm. Can be a little bit smelly when extinguished but I fall asleep so quickly it doesn't bother me.

Thanks for that, I would really like one, I have found a new old stock one for £100 but made the grave mistake of telling my wife about it It could be another thing to time the delivery date just right and slip into the shed quick whilst she's out The loft is already full

 

[mikemonty]

Enough heat being generated here to keep any cabin at blood heat - perhaps a bit of light might help.
Are all fora degenerating to the level of the Lounge?

I will defend my self vigorously against accusations of stupidity or incompetence or - in this case - also "not contributing" and trade insults, open or implied, with anyone who insults me.
Who wouldn't?

 

[Zagato]

Chill out and give us all a break

 

[Searush]

I will defend my self vigorously against accusations of stupidity or incompetence or - in this case - also "not contributing" and trade insults, open or implied, with anyone who insults me.
Who wouldn't?

Sometimes saying nowt can be far more effective than getting involved in petty posturing. One loses the high ground when one resorts to the same tactics as the assailant.

But I expect you were aware of that before the red mist descended.

 

[vyv_cox]

Been doing a bit of research and current/later Tilleys are not so good for quality. Same goes with Petromax lamps, early ones again very good though.

Very probably true, it seems most things tend to go the same way. However, last year I visited Pickering Steam Fair and there were dozens of old Tilleys for sale in various states of repair, for prices starting at £5. I guess there are many similar events all around the country. Spares are available for them, although it would probably cost more for a new glass than you paid for the lamp!

 

[mikemonty]

Chill out and give us all a break

All?
Who else is with you at your keyboard?
Ot have the YBW forums suddenly developed a collective conciousness called Zagato?

Tell me, are you like the Borg in Star Trek or Skynet in the Terminator films - or some other form of AI?
Are we in the Matrix?

 

[mikemonty]

Sometimes saying nowt can be far more effective than getting involved in petty posturing. One loses the high ground when one resorts to the same tactics as the assailant.

But I expect you were aware of that before the red mist descended.

Sometimes you have just got to let it rip.
But there is no red mist - all my responses have been nippy but considered.

 

[Mirror Painter]

 

[Zagato]

Very probably true, it seems most things tend to go the same way. However, last year I visited Pickering Steam Fair and there were dozens of old Tilleys for sale in various states of repair, for prices starting at £5. I guess there are many similar events all around the country. Spares are available for them, although it would probably cost more for a new glass than you paid for the lamp!

There is what looks to be a nice 1970's Tilley on Base-camp.co.uk going for £40 new seals etc. I have been offered a Vapalux for £30 so will have a look at that.

As the Glenans Sailing Manual says they are always good if your electrics pack up overnight....hang one of these up to show others of your presence

 

[agurney]

FWIW, I have a wall mounted LPG Catalytic heater - probably asbestos & 40 years old. I expect it is simply illegal today, however it will burn your face off if you walk too close, even on half power. I light it & open the main hatch by about 6"...

Until I bit the bullet and bought an Eberspacher I used a similar vintage catalytic heater in my 27 footer (mineral wool rather than asbestos, I believe); it was very efficient and very hot and is still handy in my garage in case of a power cut. I miss the catalytic heater - it was quieter than the Eber and didn't have problems starting, and the running costs were cheaper (nothing to fail that required replacement), the only downside for me is that it ran on gas. My catalytic heater is silent and gives off a dull red glow; not much good for making toast but great for heating a boat.

The net result of having the heat and associated ventilation on a very cold evening, compared with no heater and shutting everything down, was that there was a lot LESS condensation.

Decent sleeping bags and the occasional hot water bottle meant that the heater was never used overnight (that, and paranoia!).

 

[mikemonty]

I trust that wasn't aimed at me:

From wikipedia
In Internet slang, a troll is someone who posts inflammatory,[3] extraneous, or off-topic messages in an online community, such as a forum, chat room, or blog, with the primary intent of provoking readers into an emotional response[4] or of otherwise disrupting normal on-topic discussion.[5] The noun troll may refer to the provocative message itself, as in: "That was an excellent troll you posted."

The above does not describe the rear-guard action that I've been fighting in this thread.
IF it was aimed at me then - if anything - it describes your post.

 

[Rigger Mortice]

Mike,

VicS has a long history of providing helpful information on this site. This thread is exactly the kind of thing that he offers his expertise on to make threads more informative. It's probably best to let a minor squabble drop so that an interesting discussion can continue.


As I understand it so far...........

Any unvented heater is going to produce water which will condense on cold surfaces. The amount of water produced will be similar for all heaters whether oil, wax, paraffin, meths, or gas. Pretty obviously the amount of water will be in direct proportion to the amount of heat produced, so there is a case for saying that you should aim to have the minimum amount of heat that will provide comfort.

CO can be produced by any heater but it is an unknown quantity which varies with the amount of ventilation and the heat of the flame. Candles may produce less but we can't rely on it.

I think.

 

[agurney]

.. so there is a case for saying that you should aim to have the minimum amount of heat that will provide comfort.

however, if you produce a reasonable amount of heat the surfaces will warm up and be less prone to condensation, which is what I found in practice.

 

[AntarcticPilot]

however, if you produce a reasonable amount of heat the surfaces will warm up and be less prone to condensation, which is what I found in practice.

However, what that means is that you'll still get condensation, but it will be in places you don't notice, like the back of lockers. I've found some very soggy papers in lockers against the hull!

The hull will always be at or close to the water temperature.

 

[Rigger Mortice]

however, if you produce a reasonable amount of heat the surfaces will warm up and be less prone to condensation, which is what I found in practice.

It may depend on the boat.
On mine most of the interior surfaces are covered with insulated material. There is no condensation on those surfaces, but condensation pours off the hatches, washboards and windows. I doubt that putting more moist heat into the boat would alter the fact that a bit of perspex which is cold outside and has warm moist air on the inside will result in condensation.

 

[agurney]

However, what that means is that you'll still get condensation, but it will be in places you don't notice, like the back of lockers. I've found some very soggy papers in lockers against the hull!

The hull will always be at or close to the water temperature.

I don't disagree, but I'd rather have a warm damp boat than one that is cold and just as damp

 

[CAPTAIN FANTASTIC]

Mike,

VicS has a long history of providing helpful information on this site. This thread is exactly the kind of thing that he offers his expertise on to make threads more informative. It's probably best to let a minor squabble drop so that an interesting discussion can continue.


As I understand it so far...........

Any unvented heater is going to produce water which will condense on cold surfaces. The amount of water produced will be similar for all heaters whether oil, wax, paraffin, meths, or gas. Pretty obviously the amount of water will be in direct proportion to the amount of heat produced, so there is a case for saying that you should aim to have the minimum amount of heat that will provide comfort.

CO can be produced by any heater but it is an unknown quantity which varies with the amount of ventilation and the heat of the flame. Candles may produce less but we can't rely on it.

I think.

Well said; VicS provides useful and lean information.

The fact is that to heat a yacht is not an easy solution; the best way by far is to have a heater (gas, diesel, coal) with a flue, to be able to extract unwanted bi-products and keep dry heat inside; but they are expensive.

Personally, I will stick with my catalytic gas cartridge small heater and if I ever decide to spend winters on the boat, then I will invest on something much more substantial.