Re-Proofing Oilies

Habebty

Habebty

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Can anyone recommend a good spray or other treatment for a Gill goretex coat and Musto Trousers. Just washed them in non-bio and feel the need to reproof them.
I have tried Nikwax wash-in stuff before and wasn't that impressed.
Thanks
 
Strange this as I have had good results with the Nikwax wash in techy reproofer stuff.
 
I've used Nikwax but it does require the tech wash first to remove 'dirt' and this includes soap. Then reproofed using the tx.direct spray on. seems to work but then this summer was fairly dry in the areas that I sailed !
 
I was advised by a clothing rep that pure soap flakes are best for washing breathable fabrics. Unfortunately, I've run out and they're no longer stocked at our local supermarket.
Nikwax seems fairly effective but doesn't last as long as the original treatment.
 
ghostlymoron said:
I was advised by a clothing rep that pure soap flakes are best for washing breathable fabrics. Unfortunately, I've run out and they're no longer stocked at our local supermarket.
Nikwax seems fairly effective but doesn't last as long as the original treatment.
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Plenty of pure soap flakes advertised on the internet, our local shop used to stock them but haven’t for a while so we order on line. As for Nikwax, I found ot fairly useless, even using the tech wash first, in fact I’m going back to non- breathable as I am beginning to think they are just a marketing device to con us into paying exhorbitant sums for items that aren’t as good as the old oilies.
 
I don't think (as in "I don't find that" ) any of the re-proofing treatments work very well. Leaks are caused by the DWR breaking down - allowing water to 'wick' through the membrane. The best you can do is attempt to replace the DWR and I believe that the factory coating will always be more durable due to it having been applied under absolutely ideal conditions to absolutely ideal fibres. Whether or not the repellant chemicals that we can buy as consumers are ever as good as those applied during the fabric manufacturing process I also doubtful of...It would be interesting to hear from a fabric manufacturer whether or not this is the case. The guidelines that they issue for us to follow don't necessarily mean that we have access to the same chems that they do during manufacture.
 
Sandy said:
Never had any problems with the Nikwax two part treatment - in a CLEAN washing machine.
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I've found the wash-in treatment works better in a bucket and skip the rinse steps. Save the dregs for another jacket, and so forth. This is how climbing ropes are treated. Also works great on sheets and furling lines (it doesn't make they water repelant, but it reduces absorption, eliminates squeaks, and makes them handle better).
 
Nikwax recommend frequent cleaning using their tech-wash before reproofing, in a CLEAN machine, as detergents (including none-bio) reduces fabric water run-off and inhibits reproofing - I put 50ml of white vinegar through the machine on a hot wash before cleaning and reproofing waterproofs, which hopefully reduces crud and detergent build-up in the rest of the works. After using techwash the garment can then be reproofed.
https://www.nikwax.com/en-gb/products/productdetail.php?productid=4&itemid=-1&fabricid=-1

I have used Graingers products before without complaint, but found their wash-in reproofer so disappointing I threw half a bottle away.
 
I may be sucking eggs but are you putting into a tumble dryer after nikiwax , as I have always done this with my mountain gear and no issues
 
thinwater said:
I've found the wash-in treatment works better in a bucket and skip the rinse steps. Save the dregs for another jacket, and so forth. This is how climbing ropes are treated. Also works great on sheets and furling lines (it doesn't make they water repelant, but it reduces absorption, eliminates squeaks, and makes them handle better).
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Interesting, I always wash my ropes in a bio wash.
 
To summarize a more effective procedure:

1. Wash. Rinsing well is more important that what you wash it with. They recommend mild soap when the garment still has DWR in place so that it is not removed, but before re-proofing you are better just to get it clean!

2. Treat in a bucket. I see no sense in rinsing it off, and I can re-use the dregs on something else. Soak for 30 minutes with a little agitation every 5 minutes. Drip dry.

3. Tumble dry as directed to heat set treatment. You can skip this if you like, but it does help. No longer than needed to reach temperature, which isn't long if you let it dry first! Saves wear and tear.

I learned this with mountain gear, including ice climbing ropes (which must not freeze!). You skip the machine drying with ropes.

I also use it on furler lines in the winter. A frozen drum sucks.
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P6WPkbqIk_U/V3cV2hoQhZI/AAAAAAAAMkQ/FWEL69Hj2C4vXLb6Y0s4LCaSBgZ4Ad75wCLcB/s400/2.%2Bwater%2Brepel%2Bon%2Bfurler%2Bdrum%2B2.jpg
 
thinwater said:
To summarize a more effective procedure:


3. Tumble dry as directed to heat set treatment. You can skip this if you like, but it does help. No longer than needed to reach temperature, which isn't long if you let it dry first! Saves wear and tear.
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Gill say specifically not to tumble dry.
 
hi, I did my ageing musto's at the start of the season, this is what I found. I was recommended (by musto) to use the grangers products and firstly washed them with their wash liquid and then needed to wash again with the reproofing liquid. both times in the washing machine, it was recommended that they were not put in the drier. I assume that the wash got them clean, I don't know how you can tell. However, the reproofing didn't work at all, I contacted grangers but got no response, spoke to musto who were very helpful. They suggested that I try a spray, I used the gill product, this worked out fine. I wasn't stingy with it and it took 2 cans to do both jacket and trousers, so far I'm very pleased with the result. More recently I have reproofed my sprayhood and used fabsyl, really good, might try that on my clothing next time.
 
pawl said:
hi, I did my ageing musto's at the start of the season, this is what I found. I was recommended (by musto) to use the grangers products and firstly washed them with their wash liquid and then needed to wash again with the reproofing liquid. both times in the washing machine, it was recommended that they were not put in the drier. I assume that the wash got them clean, I don't know how you can tell. However, the reproofing didn't work at all, I contacted grangers but got no response, spoke to musto who were very helpful. They suggested that I try a spray, I used the gill product, this worked out fine. I wasn't stingy with it and it took 2 cans to do both jacket and trousers, so far I'm very pleased with the result. More recently I have reproofed my sprayhood and used fabsyl, really good, might try that on my clothing next time.
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I have done aging Mustos by washing in Graingerd Wash & Repel then tumble drying on low temp for the past few years. Also sprayed on Graingers spray in most exposed places. Worked for me.
 
I gave up on soggy goretex type waterproofs after 25 years and went onto cheap PVC. Stayed dry and warm all season, any condensation seemed to be a lot less than leaky goretex and the waterproofs can just be given a shake and shoved into a cockpit locker. Can't believe I persevered with goretex for so long.
 
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