oldsaltoz
New member
Anyone found an alternative for the overpriced Volvo 2003 raw water engine?
One of ours is eating seals.
One of ours is eating seals.
Raw water engine pump.
- Thread starter oldsaltoz
- Start date
ghostlymoron
Well-known member
Not quite clear what you are asking.
1. Your engine has become a carnivore
2. You want to replace the engine
3. You want to replace the pump
If as I suspect you only have a problem with the water pump and the pump is a conventional rubber impellor type you could check that the cam which is fitted inside the pump body. If this is displaced or damaged it could be damaging the impellor.
For further info on engines this is a useful site http://boatdiesel.com/Forums/index.cfm?CFAPP=6&Forum_ID=81&P=1
1. Your engine has become a carnivore
2. You want to replace the engine
3. You want to replace the pump
If as I suspect you only have a problem with the water pump and the pump is a conventional rubber impellor type you could check that the cam which is fitted inside the pump body. If this is displaced or damaged it could be damaging the impellor.
For further info on engines this is a useful site http://boatdiesel.com/Forums/index.cfm?CFAPP=6&Forum_ID=81&P=1
oldsaltoz
New member
The pump works, it's just chewing out the shaft oil and water seals at the back, I suspect the shaft is scored and thought I would replace the lot and keep old one as a backup.
But Volvo are asking for over AU$700.00, so an alternative pump or supplier is what I would like.
But Volvo are asking for over AU$700.00, so an alternative pump or supplier is what I would like.
I once repaired one for a friend and just had a new shaft turned by an engineer(can I say that?).It cost next to nothing and together with new seals lasted for years ,at least until the boat was sold.
oldsaltoz
New member
Thanks 30Boat,
I will look into getting a stainless shaft made up, but would like a complete pump as the rest of this pump has done a lot of work (like me) and should be retired (like me).
I will look into getting a stainless shaft made up, but would like a complete pump as the rest of this pump has done a lot of work (like me) and should be retired (like me).
It will be either a Jabsco or Johnson. Have a look on the web sites.
I also have a Jabsco replacement manual and will bring to office tomorrow so if you could give exact details of engine I may be able to find equivalent pump number.
I also have a Jabsco replacement manual and will bring to office tomorrow so if you could give exact details of engine I may be able to find equivalent pump number.
My VP 2002 has a Johnson F35 pump, I think the 2003 is the same one isn't it ?
Here's on listed with a picture on ebay for £140, postage comes up at £12 if you put Australia in as the destination
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Johnsons-F35-...tEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item230dc34c2a
Here's on listed with a picture on ebay for £140, postage comes up at £12 if you put Australia in as the destination
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Johnsons-F35-...tEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item230dc34c2a
GaryRatclife
New member
- Joined
- 17 Aug 2007
- Messages
- 4
You can get a 'repair' kit for the raw water pump on 2001,2002,2003 engines. This includes new seals and a new shaft. We had a problem with a leaky seal, replaced the seal but still leaked, discovered the shaft had developed a flat.
The kit was around £70 last year.
Some info at http://www.volvopentashop.com/Volsp...eDieselEngines/7726000/7726000_26/7726000_189
Gary
The kit was around £70 last year.
Some info at http://www.volvopentashop.com/Volsp...eDieselEngines/7726000/7726000_26/7726000_189
Gary
RedAdmiral
New member
VP water pump
Agree on fitting refit kit. Did so about 3 years ago. No problems since. April isssue of Sailing Today www.sailingtoday.co.uk has an article with photographs showing how to do it. Good luck.
Agree on fitting refit kit. Did so about 3 years ago. No problems since. April isssue of Sailing Today www.sailingtoday.co.uk has an article with photographs showing how to do it. Good luck.
There is an alternative method which works..
Obviously,the seals are being chewed because they are bearing on a worn or scored bit of the shaft,which is abrading the rubber.
So the cure is to make them bear on a smooth area. This is achieved by making a couple of brass shims to fit behind the seals ,...about 15-20 thou should be enough,this will move them sufficiently so that they are now on a smooth bit.
There is plenty of space for this inside the pump.
This does work,and saves a few bob,as you only need to buy the seals,(which are still expensive from Volvo)
Obviously,the seals are being chewed because they are bearing on a worn or scored bit of the shaft,which is abrading the rubber.
So the cure is to make them bear on a smooth area. This is achieved by making a couple of brass shims to fit behind the seals ,...about 15-20 thou should be enough,this will move them sufficiently so that they are now on a smooth bit.
There is plenty of space for this inside the pump.
This does work,and saves a few bob,as you only need to buy the seals,(which are still expensive from Volvo)
The seals can be bought at any specialized shop and stainless springs can be specified.
That's correct...I assumed that most VP owners knew .
Ruffles
Active member
You can also buy double lip seals to avoid the wear point on the shaft.
PaulJS
Well-known member
Sleeve the shaft?
If you have access to a lathe, it 's pretty easy to turn down the shaft to good, unscored material and then to fit a sleeve in place of the removed material. This can either be shrink fitted, or to reduce the chance of future leakage between shaft and sleeve, it can be an interference fit with one of the proprietary thread/bearing adhesives such as "loctite".
Incidentally, these pumps and their associated casings are relatively easy to adapt to use seals which are more readily available than original spec manufacturers spares... Although this does of course invalidate any warranty...
If you have access to a lathe, it 's pretty easy to turn down the shaft to good, unscored material and then to fit a sleeve in place of the removed material. This can either be shrink fitted, or to reduce the chance of future leakage between shaft and sleeve, it can be an interference fit with one of the proprietary thread/bearing adhesives such as "loctite".
Incidentally, these pumps and their associated casings are relatively easy to adapt to use seals which are more readily available than original spec manufacturers spares... Although this does of course invalidate any warranty...
oldsaltoz
New member
Getting some good info here so far, I am about 6 hours away from the marina at the moment but plan head there on the weekend and get all the numbers off the pump and engine.
Thanks for the your guidance so far, keep it coming.
Thanks for the your guidance so far, keep it coming.
grafozz
Member
Viton
Make sure , when you buy non OE seals that they are made in Viton , these are special seals developed to resist saltwater , then as o/p said , with s/s or copper springs .
Theres usually a way around Volvos extortionate pricing policies !
Make sure , when you buy non OE seals that they are made in Viton , these are special seals developed to resist saltwater , then as o/p said , with s/s or copper springs .
Theres usually a way around Volvos extortionate pricing policies !
ruvane
Member
raw water pump
I wanted to replace the pump on my MD11C and the Volvo price was ridiculous. Bought a new one from www.ancor.it at a fraction of the price.
Service was excellent. Highly recommended.
Usual disclaimer - no connection, satisfied client, etc.
Ruvane.
I wanted to replace the pump on my MD11C and the Volvo price was ridiculous. Bought a new one from www.ancor.it at a fraction of the price.
Service was excellent. Highly recommended.
Usual disclaimer - no connection, satisfied client, etc.
Ruvane.