Radar scanner stolen. What now skipper?

[Hurricane]

- on Garmin you cant reset your cross track. So if you go round a ship for example on the Raymarine you just reset and carry on direct to destination. Garmin won't let you do that, you have to follow the original line. If using auto plan you can force it to re plan.

Wow - I didn't know that
Thats a biggie for me
I'm always resetting the cross track error
Imagine - you are in the middle of nowhere and just come across a pod of dolphins - you spend half an hour driving in all directions, just playing with them.
Now the time has come to resume the passage - with Raymarine, you just press Reset XTE and off you go
Are you really saying that Garmin don't have that facility!!!

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Did you speak to delboy?

Yes thanks, we've been exchanging emails. Unfortunately he'd shut up shop for the day when I got to RK Marine this afternoon so I didn't get to speak to him in person yet. I'll be back along in a couple of days.

 

[jfm]

Are you really saying that Garmin don't have that facility!!!

yup, and it is a big omission by garmin. I have no idea why they cannot see sense on this and update their software. It's annoying rather than end of world - I never use routes so I just tap the destination waypoint and hit goto again, but I shouldn't have to!

 

[neale]

Right, got along to the boat this afternoon (via the Tower of London, to see the poppy installation - v powerful). The radome was a Raymarine M92650, which is a 2kw 18" analogue. So - in the first instance, that's what I'm after as a replacement.

Jtb

Did your model number have a hyphen and an S after the model number? From memory that model radome needed the hyphen S version to work with the classic C and E series. Check that the one you are looking to get is an S version or I don't think it will work. You should also be able to use the later RD218 without any problem.

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Jtb

Did your model number have a hyphen and an S after the model number? From memory that model radome needed the hyphen S version to work with the classic C and E series. Check that the one you are looking to get is an S version or I don't think it will work. You should also be able to use the later RD218 without any problem.

Thanks Neale - this is very helpful - I didn't realise that the -S was part of the product code. Mine was a M92650-S; oddly, I've had details through of two M92650's this morning, one was a -S and the other wasn't - but the confusing thing is that the build date of the one that wasn't is much later, it's November 2008. Does that sound correct to you?

Also - is the later RD218 a significant improvement on the M92650?

 

[neale]

Hi Jimmy

You can also double check compatibility using the serial number, just to be sure. See GIGM's post No7 for more info. Basically this documents says that models produced after May 03 are compatible, and those produced before are not. I understood that the -S suffix was added at this time. Can't see how this ties up with your findings of newer non suffixed versions, but maybe check the serial numbers to be sure.

As for the RD218. It will be a straight swap. Probably a little better than the older versions, but I think it was more a redesign of the casing than much else. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable on the subject will correct me if I'm wrong. I have used both and didn't see much, if any, difference between them.

I guess the point is that getting an RD218 removes any doubt about it working with the head unit, plus it looks a bit more modern. Having said that, they are pretty hard to get hold of. There was one on ebay that finished a couple of weeks back for £400. There was a brand new 'still in box' one at Essex Boat Jumble in the summer, but they wanted £700. I was lucky in that I found one a couple of years back when I was looking for £250.