R clips or split pins

BlowingOldBoots said:
BlueWave Smart Pins are a very good replacement for split pins. Previous time to my last mast raising event the rigging company fitted these instead of split pins but last time a different contractor fitted split pins because he could not find them sitting on the chart table to be reused!

Blue Wave Smart Pin - 4 Pack | Force 4 Chandlery
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I have made my own by buying a roll of the velcro, cutting pieces of appropriate length, and stitching a split pin about 1 or 2cm from the end.

It doesn't seem to matter that he pin is not held perpendicular to the velcro as it is in the ones you can buy. I sew it tightly, so that the split pin is not flopping all over the place.

I was careful to try to buy good velcro - i think mine is the real stuff...

They work great for people who want to adjust their tension.

My boat is a performance oriented 30fter.., I wouldn't use them on say a large cruising boat on which the rigging never gets adjusted.
 
Graham_Wright said:
Probably an infinitesimal difference. But, compared with wrestling with a fiddly split pin on a wet and heaving deck, worth every penny.
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i wouldn't have thought it would be easier...

I can undo a bent split pin and remove it with one tool - a pair of pliers.., and usually one hand - provided it hasn't been bent too much.

undoing a lock nut requires two tools and two hands - how, on that heaving deck.., are you going to hold on to anything to steady yourself?
 
When tightening bottlescrews.I once made the error of tightening the lower bottle screw up too far before the top one had been inserted ,then tightened down the upper one before locking both off port and starboard. When I then tightened to the near correct tension I found the problem was that the wire itself had unwound whilst securing the other which I was locking up. The slight twisting from the wire had made that much difference. This did occur on old existing rigging and may have been because one side was slightly longer or shorter than the other . Lesson learned - fortunately it was my first yacht and mast hoisting.
Later on I used to secure clevis pins with rings but afterward back to the split pin .

ianat182
 
PabloPicasso said:
Yes, I have bent the split pin ends around the turnbuckle and taped them. This would seem to be a good way (best method) of doing it. Unless someone has a good alternative?
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An alternative you ask?
This does not need tape to the split pins. Allows routine inspection. Makes it easy when lowering the mast ( which we have to do on our club committee boat every year)
30 (600 x 402).jpg
 
RJJ said:
I thought seizing wire would be better in every application - but apparently lots of split pin lovers in this thread!

What do people like about split pins, over seizing wire?
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Seizing wire is much thinner than split pins & a correctly sized split pin should fill the hole it is designed for. Seizing wire would have to pass several times through the hole & the amount of material would almost certainly be less than the equivalent split pin. One often sees just a single strand though the hole & this may be insufficient. The seizing wire needs to be fastened to something else so there is a length of unsupported wire that is subject to damage. It may be incorrectly twisted at the terminal end, leading to failure.
All this adds up to possible problems. It is not as neat & not as strong in the long run.
I have used it in emergency & in that situation a roll of seizing wire on board is very handy. But in the long term I would use either split rings or split pins.
But to each his own & some may be perfectly happy with either.
 
Graham_Wright said:
Dumping the mast?
(No- I would not consider cutting the lines even though I have shears (not bolt cutters).
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You would if the mast was punching a hole through the side of the boat. Getting the split pin out is one thing; but you still have to get the loaded pin out as well & it will be loaded with a mast pulling on it at an odd angle. It is not just a few shrouds to worry about. There are all sorts of other ropes threaded through the deck to get rid of. You do not have time to faff with anything.
I do know, I have had a mast go over the side. There is rigging, ropes& wiring that you never though existed . One just has to chop the lot & get rid of it pronto.
 
I've often thought that, with my bolt cutters, I'd have a better chance of cutting the bottle screws or the threaded ends of the wires than the wires themselves if I had to dump the rig. Something I hope fervently never to have to put to the test.
 
Daydream believer said:
You would if the mast was punching a hole through the side of the boat. Getting the split pin out is one thing; but you still have to get the loaded pin out as well & it will be loaded with a mast pulling on it at an odd angle. It is not just a few shrouds to worry about. There are all sorts of other ropes threaded through the deck to get rid of. You do not have time to faff with anything.
I do know, I have had a mast go over the side. There is rigging, ropes& wiring that you never though existed . One just has to chop the lot & get rid of it pronto.
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I have just shortened a couple of my stays. Even with my RN shears, it took a lot of effort. Bolt cutters seem to be worse. Undoing a bolt, albeit in less than benign conditions, is straightforward. I use Copperslip on all SS to SS mating surfaces. Once the nut is off a bolt, there is sufficient length left protruding for a hammer blow to shoot it out. The same is not true of a clevis pin.
 
Stemar said:
I've often thought that, with my bolt cutters, I'd have a better chance of cutting the bottle screws or the threaded ends of the wires than the wires themselves if I had to dump the rig. Something I hope fervently never to have to put to the test.
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I cut some 8mm with an old rusty hacksaw and was surprised how easy it was... certainly I think it might be an easier approach than a bolt cutters once you had a good saw and a good blade.

I know a bolt cutters on your knees in the dark would not be fun.

I also think many of the clevis pins could be bashed out with a hammer and cold chisel.
 
pandos said:
I cut some 8mm with an old rusty hacksaw and was surprised how easy it was... certainly I think it might be an easier approach than a bolt cutters once you had a good saw and a good blade.

I know a bolt cutters on your knees in the dark would not be fun.

I also think many of the clevis pins could be bashed out with a hammer and cold chisel.
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Rig cutting has been an emotive subject on the forum for years
& to each his own. The main thing is to keep one's rig well maintained & check all components. That way a rig failure is less of a probablility.
Those like my friends who buy a 40 ft boat & when asked how long since the rigging was changed say " Well we have had it 4 years, but the bloke before said he changed it & he had the boat 18 years. But it seems Ok" Followed by " Have you had the mast down?"--"No" followed by " Have you been up the mast?" -- "No way"-- are really courting trouble. The way the split pin is fitted will make little difference in the end game
 
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pandos said:
I cut some 8mm with an old rusty hacksaw and was surprised how easy it was... certainly I think it might be an easier approach than a bolt cutters once you had a good saw and a good blade.

I know a bolt cutters on your knees in the dark would not be fun.

I also think many of the clevis pins could be bashed out with a hammer and cold chisel.
Click to expand...

Nail punch?
 
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