Putting in new window rubber question

[steve yates]

I have ripped out the old windows of my trailer sailer and managed to match the rubber seal profile to one of sealsdirect's products. I assume I just use the rubber seals and the fixing strip alone? and don't I run a bead of sikalex along the edge of the grp and/or the new windows when reinstalling otherwise it would making getting them back out difficult? Are they watertight if properly fitted with just the seals?

 

[Kilo]

I think you're right, no need for sikaflex if the seal's a good tight fit on both GRP and perspex. For some reason that I don't remember I think the joint in the seal goes at the top. Do you have the special diamond shaped tool for inserting the fixing bead?

 

[Graham376]

In years past before car windscreens were glued in, we always used a soft non-setting mastic gunned in around both edges of the seal before fitting the bead.

 

[coopec]

I have ripped out the old windows of my trailer sailer and managed to match the rubber seal profile to one of sealsdirect's products. I assume I just use the rubber seals and the fixing strip alone? and don't I run a bead of sikalex along the edge of the grp and/or the new windows when reinstalling otherwise it would making getting them back out difficult? Are they watertight if properly fitted with just the seals?

Wash your mouth out! They are not "windows" they are "portlights"! (Ask Paul)?

 

[LittleSister]

I guess we are talking about Claytonrite type seals: sort of H- shaped section moulding, with window held by moulding (tightened by insert) only, no separate frame. These usually seal without sealant, but not always!

If any of the the radiuses of the window (sorry!) corners are too tight for the rubber moulding (often the case on small boats) the moulding can 'ripple' on the corners, opening up a potential path for leaks; the dimensions of the moulding may not exactly fit the boat's windows and (possibly varying thickness) GRP layup; there may be scratches or other uneven shape in any part that may allow leaks; and/or the boat will move and flex over time and with heat/cold, perhaps leading to leaks.

As far as I can make out, some professionals (i.e. boatyards and boat window specialists) put some sealant in as a matter of course, and others do not. If adding sealant, either on assembly or afterwards, silicone sealants seem the default option for most people, but others advocate butyl as it is non- setting (except the exposed surface) and therefore can continue to adapt to flexing.

Good luck with sealing your windows. Leaking ones - even just a small leak - are such a pain.

On the other hand, those who have never had window leaks will never know the great joy experienced when they are finally fixed, and the subsequent long-lasting conscious appreciation of the watertightness that everyone else takes for granted!

 

[LittleSister]

Wash your mouth out! They are not "windows" they are "portlights"! (Ask Paul)?

I wonder whether Steve's leak is in his starboard port light, or his port port light.

 

[Keith-i]

I would be very tempted to run a small bead of butyl sealant in both channels of the rubber moulding to minimise any risk of disappointment

 

[PetiteFleur]

Just make sure you cut the rubber strip longer than you think, from memory years ago I made them 1" longer on a Vivacity 20. They will shrink if made the exact size. Joint at the top centre.

 

[Kilo]

Just make sure you cut the rubber strip longer than you think, from memory years ago I made them 1" longer on a Vivacity 20. They will shrink if made the exact size. Joint at the top centre.

Can you remind me why the joint goes at the top please, I know it's supposed to just can't remember why.
Cheers

 

[steve yates]

I think you're right, no need for sikaflex if the seal's a good tight fit on both GRP and perspex. For some reason that I don't remember I think the joint in the seal goes at the top. Do you have the special diamond shaped tool for inserting the fixing bead?

I do have the tool, and yes to little sister, they are the claytonite seals.
Thanks all, I might try the seals without the glass first to see how tight they fuit and then decide whether or no to run some sika in it.

 

[steve yates]

I would be very tempted to run a small bead of butyl sealant in both channels of the rubber moulding to minimise any risk of disappointment

would butyl rubber work in this sort of case? Is there enough pressure to compress it?

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

Can you remind me why the joint goes at the top please, I know it's supposed to just can't remember why.
Cheers

At the top, if it separates slightly it will allow in a minimal amount of water, whereas at the bottom it will become a channel nfor all the water that falls on the window,( sorry, portlight?).

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

I do have the tool, and yes to little sister, they are the claytonite seals.
Thanks all, I might try the seals without the glass first to see how tight they fuit and then decide whether or no to run some sika in it.

From my experience with my first boat, a Leisure 17, I can say that it is more advisable to use butyl, either in 'mastic' form or as tape.
Incidentally when I dealt with this it was before I learned how to buy on line, and I sourced the rubber profile in a motor factors which specialised in truck parts.

 

[Keith-i]

would butyl rubber work in this sort of case? Is there enough pressure to compress it?

I would get a tube of Arbomast BR

 

[Daydream believer]

At the top, if it separates slightly it will allow in a minimal amount of water, whereas at the bottom it will become a channel nfor all the water that falls on the window,( sorry, portlight?).

So if one put the join at the bottom, would that let any water that got in - out- rather than let it get trapped?

 

[Quandary]

Wash your mouth out! They are not "windows" they are "portlights"! (Ask Paul)?

Not according to Lewmar who have made rather a lot of them, Their 'portlights' are openable, the ones that do not open are windows.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

So if one put the join at the bottom, would that let any water that got in - out- rather than let it get trapped?

It would be channelled in through the joint, if it can go wrong it will go wrong!

 

[wallacebob]

I remember Sealsdirect sell a good sealant specifically for the job, but so do Toolstation. Fit seal, 1in longer than needed to aperture, must be tight; joint at top. Warm day is best, a little soapy water help seal slip in, fit window into hole progressively from outside. Most grp hulls are not very even, so silicon around the seal, in and out. Then fit filler strip, with joint at bottom. Again, 1in longer than needed, this will hold the seal tight. The excess silicon will then squeeze out. Corners may take a day or two to settle.

 

[BobnLesley]

I wonder whether Steve's leak is in his starboard port light, or his port port light.

I suspect that it's in the window on the right.

 

[BobnLesley]

...those who have never had window leaks will never know the great joy experienced when they are finally fixed, and the subsequent long-lasting conscious appreciation of the watertightness that everyone else takes for granted!

Ain't that the truth. During the ten years that we owned our first boat it was 100% watertight, but it wasn't until we got the next one that we appreciated it.