Puerto Cervo, Sardinia

[Roaring Girl]

This afternoon we, along with four other boats (French, Italian and Norwegian, if it makes a difference) were kicked out of the tiny remaining anchoring space in Puerto Cervo. They have installed buoys in the anchoring field, at a apparently flat rate charge of EU80 per night. Even if your anchoring position does interfere in any way with the bouys, anchoring is not allowed.

We were informed of this by an aggressive policeman acting on behalf of the port, and told we had 10 minutes to leave. In practice, we were able to take down our wind generator etc which took about 30 minutes. As boats left the anchorage, port staff were waiting on mooring bouys and watching that we were leaving. No explanation was given. When we asked we were told that he is the police (which he proved) and he's telling us to leave, and that's all we needed to know.

Also we gather one boat, drawing 1.8m spent one night on buoy number 3, where he was touching the bottom at times.

No more camping out to watch the rich and famous at play. We're currently at anchor in Golfo Pero and will be happy to leave the Costa Smeralda.

 

[ccscott49]

This afternoon we, along with four other boats (French, Italian and Norwegian, if it makes a difference) were kicked out of the tiny remaining anchoring space in Puerto Cervo. They have installed buoys in the anchoring field, at a apparently flat rate charge of EU80 per night. Even if your anchoring position does interfere in any way with the bouys, anchoring is not allowed.

We were informed of this by an aggressive policeman acting on behalf of the port, and told we had 10 minutes to leave. In practice, we were able to take down our wind generator etc which took about 30 minutes. As boats left the anchorage, port staff were waiting on mooring bouys and watching that we were leaving. No explanation was given. When we asked we were told that he is the police (which he proved) and he's telling us to leave, and that's all we needed to know.

Also we gather one boat, drawing 1.8m spent one night on buoy number 3, where he was touching the bottom at times.

No more camping out to watch the rich and famous at play. We're currently at anchor in Golfo Pero and will be happy to leave the Costa Smeralda.

Fairly obvious they dont want you there, unless you're paying wedges! I have had enough of all that, That's one of the reasons, I'm now in The Ionian, cheap and beautiful, with plentiful anchorages. Winter in Gouvia, but of course there are much cheaper places, but suits me, at half the price of Port vell!

 

[gavin_lacey]

Seems to be on the increase. Carloforte and Cagliari, among many to ban anchoring in harbour despite there being lots of room. According to another thread Mahon has gone the same way. The marinas lease space from the authorities who therefore assist in drumming up custom. Desparate for short term cashflow despite the long term damage to yachting tourism industry. Greece remains a haven of sanity but for how long?

 

[JonJon]

Yes I was on one of those buoys drawing 1.9 metres. There was a lump on the seabed we banged into every low tide. I think the med is gradually pricing itself out of existance. Porto Rotundo 2 gin an tonics 2 small beers 56 euros! What planet these guys on? Agree Ionian much better almost normal.

 

[charles_reed]

And, from my experience 03 March-June 30; the Ionian is uniformly 30% more than the Aegean and Peloponnesus.

Mind the whole of Italy is unbelievably expensive and overcrowded and I don't think they're viewing a whole lot of scruffy yachties as any loss.

 

[Roaring Girl]

And, from my experience 03 March-June 30; the Ionian is uniformly 30% more than the Aegean and Peloponnesus.

Mind the whole of Italy is unbelievably expensive and overcrowded and I don't think they're viewing a whole lot of scruffy yachties as any loss.

Not really our experience to be fair. We have enormously enjoyed both the Tuscan Islands and the La Maddalena archipelago. In both areas, we found good anchorages. If you provision in advance, so you're not buying basics at island prices, they're actually very cheap areas. (We spent all of 35EU in a week in La Maddalenas, plus the EU6.5 a day permit charge, when paid in advance online.) In Genoa, Pisa and Rome we met lovely, welcoming Italians and found the prices not too unreasonable for such globally important destinations.

We hope that the fiefdom of Costa Smeralda proves the exception. Our encounter with the police yesterday was far and away the worst hostility we've encountered anywhere.

 

[charles_reed]

Not really our experience to be fair. We have enormously enjoyed both the Tuscan Islands and the La Maddalena archipelago. In both areas, we found good anchorages. If you provision in advance, so you're not buying basics at island prices, they're actually very cheap areas. (We spent all of 35EU in a week in La Maddalenas, plus the EU6.5 a day permit charge, when paid in advance online.) In Genoa, Pisa and Rome we met lovely, welcoming Italians and found the prices not too unreasonable for such globally important destinations.

We hope that the fiefdom of Costa Smeralda proves the exception. Our encounter with the police yesterday was far and away the worst hostility we've encountered anywhere.

Except, in all the Maddalena anchorages, you should have been paying €15/night to the Ministerio del Ambiente RIB, or so I found in 2004. Perhaps your €6.5 has replaced that.

They did take away your rubbish for that money and seldom ventured farther than round Cabrera.

having spent about 4 consecutive years in those waters, I've experienced an unending increase in costs and overcrowding.

And I'm talking about boating here - not inland pricing.

Wait till you get to Venezia - easily the most delightful city in Italy and, providing you keep more than 800m away from S Marco, really quite reasonably priced.

Makes Firenze and Pisa look quite gross.

 

[saltwater_gypsy]

What's wrong with anchoring off Cannegioni and taking the bus over the hill to Porto Cervo.That is if you really want to go there.

 

[Roaring Girl]

La Maddalena - we bought our permit on line in advance, and it cost EU6.5 a day. The wardens check every day. You are not paying for a buoy but for the right to navigate in the park, but if you are in a spot where there is a buoy, they require you to take it. If there is no buoy but you are in an MB area, eg Cala Garibaldi (now v peaceful as the Club Med has shut down), then there is no problem anchoring.

We went into Porto Cervo admittedly for a brief gawp but also with the intention of getting rid of rubbish and filling our water jerry cans. And it shows as a perfectly good anchorage. What we really found annoying was the aggressive hostility of the policeman who chucked us out.

Incidentally, when we left Cala di Volpe, we sailed through the half-empty mooring field, during the siesta when no other boat was moving. We got chased again by the police and told off for sailing there! So now we're very glad to be out of the area.

 

[binch]

France to Greece without charge

In the past ten years we have made this voyage (France/Greece) 3 times without paying a cent in mooring fees. Admittedly we have almost 50 years of sailing it, but it needs only some careful examination of charts to choose nice deserted anchorages or ports with free sections.
If you want to cruise without paying use the anchor for choice.
But anchorages are disappearing.
Too many yachts, I suppose.

 

[Roaring Girl]

I think it's probably still possible to get from France to Greece for free (or at least not paying for moorings!) - though we've only done the 'expensive' bit to southern Italy We spent last night in a nice, protected spot north of Pts Cappucini that's not marked as an anchorage by anyone but was just what we needed to escape swell.

What's different of course, amongst other things, is that people in southern Europe are relatively much more prosperous - which after all is a good thing than continued post-war and post-fascism poverty

 

[binch]

N Sardinia

Add to my previous: if you want a cheap stop where there is some life ashore, a good chandlery, post office, fuel and provisions, try the anchorage at Macinaggio. It is exposed in north winds but over several years we have never been bothered except once in a thunderstorm.
A little further down the east coast is La calletta. A scruffy port with a long breakwater. You are allowed to accost the breakwater free because its inner side is encumbered with rocky bits. There are plenty of bollards. We laid alongside there in Fare Well (dt 6' 6") and again in Hosanna, (loa 85' and dt 5') with an anchor out. In the latter with two anchors laid out abreast to hold her off. We painted marks on the B/w wall to show where the deeper and safer bits were. Be nice to know if the marks are still there.
Good provisions in town and cheap and cheerful pizzeria etc, as well as up-market restaurant. Fuel available, but fresh water only in the little marina.

 

[Chris_Robb]

La Maddalena - we bought our permit on line in advance, and it cost EU6.5 a day. The wardens check every day. You are not paying for a buoy but for the right to navigate in the park, but if you are in a spot where there is a buoy, they require you to take it. If there is no buoy but you are in an MB area, eg Cala Garibaldi (now v peaceful as the Club Med has shut down), then there is no problem anchoring.

We went into Porto Cervo admittedly for a brief gawp but also with the intention of getting rid of rubbish and filling our water jerry cans. And it shows as a perfectly good anchorage. What we really found annoying was the aggressive hostility of the policeman who chucked us out.

Incidentally, when we left Cala di Volpe, we sailed through the half-empty mooring field, during the siesta when no other boat was moving. We got chased again by the police and told off for sailing there! So now we're very glad to be out of the area.

We were in the Madelenas on route to Greece at end of May beginning of June. They hadn't laid the mooring buoys then and there was nothing to pay in any anchorage. We went into Porto Cervo for a nose. We did anchor over night (no Buoys laid) but frankly, who would want to go to a place like that.... We went next to Olbia where we were caught by a gale for 2 days, a far nicer place, and the town quay was free. We made the mistake of visiting Villa Simius and the SE corner which was a deserted wind chute - hardly any yachts - 40Kn of wind into the entrance, no shop no nothing, toilets bust, €80 - real good value.

In Sicily - we avoided Palermo on advice and went to Catello di Mare de Golfo just to the west - a delightful place with new pontoons and all services for €30 per night, where we did our crew change.

In contrast - Greece is a haven - we were last there 15 years ago and it has not really changed.

 

[blueglass]

like many others on here we found Italy expensive and inconsistent, one night free, next night 120Euros Also found the ormeggiatori system frequently suspect and we passed through Italian waters as quickly as possible. Ionian was then like a breath of fresh air.

 

[BobnLesley]

"...ormeggiatori system frequently suspect..."

Our experience too. To be fair, we traversed western Italy during a period of settled weather, so were able to anchor a lot of the time and generally use the less expensive harbours when we did tie-up. However, the ball-ache with Italy was entering harbours and having absolutely no idea what charge would be (or at least attempted to be) levied; we stayed in some very nice places at quite reasonable rates, alternatively, absolute bog-holes, in the middle of nowhere were asking for €60/80 and more.

The one piece of advice I can give, is to learn sufficient Italian to be able to ask 'how much for one night' as you approach the quay; irrespective of what is quoted, say: 'No, too expensive' and make as if to turn around. At this point, the Ormeggiatori will shout out a second and lower quotation, which you again refuse, but counter-offer with an amount €10 less. It probably won't work in July/Aug when the Rome boats are out to play, but in April/May, we never failed to get a discount (our best result was 75%) on the originally quoted berthing fee.

 

[blueglass]

"...ormeggiatori system frequently suspect..."

Our experience too. To be fair, we traversed western Italy during a period of settled weather, so were able to anchor a lot of the time and generally use the less expensive harbours when we did tie-up. However, the ball-ache with Italy was entering harbours and having absolutely no idea what charge would be (or at least attempted to be) levied; we stayed in some very nice places at quite reasonable rates, alternatively, absolute bog-holes, in the middle of nowhere were asking for €60/80 and more.

The one piece of advice I can give, is to learn sufficient Italian to be able to ask 'how much for one night' as you approach the quay; irrespective of what is quoted, say: 'No, too expensive' and make as if to turn around. At this point, the Ormeggiatori will shout out a second and lower quotation, which you again refuse, but counter-offer with an amount €10 less. It probably won't work in July/Aug when the Rome boats are out to play, but in April/May, we never failed to get a discount (our best result was 75%) on the originally quoted berthing fee.

We didn't hang around long enough to learn the language! Probably gives you a good advantage though (as everywhere)
We did stand our ground several times though and found that this does have some effect.
In one harbour where we arrived at 10.00 am after a night crossing we paid our 60 Euros, only to be revisited that afternoon by some different ormeggiatori who wanted another 60. We actually had a receipt (yes!) from the first lot but this changed nothing, and my refusal to pay up resulted in 3 more guys appearing to back up the claim with much shouting and arm waving. Although concerned, as only myself and wife aboard and not known for street fighting skills I can nothowever abide being ripped off and told them that I would pay up if they came back with the port police to prove they were legit. This could have worked either way of course, but it paid off and they disappeared.
I hate to generalise about an entire nation, but corruption is endemic from the top downwards. This is not to say we met some lovely people too, but if money is changing hands, always at the back of your mind is that underlying suspicion.