Protecting Eberspacher hoses

Parmesan

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Our yacht has an Eberspacher D4 in the cockpit locker with outlets in the saloon and forepeak. The hot air outlet hoses are easily crushed, particularly in the cockpit locker and forepeak which are both used for storage. Has anyone found a good way to protect them? Also, is there a good way to insulate the Eberspacher exhaust hose? It appears to already have a layer of lagging, but still gets quite hot.

Thanks in advance.
 
A wire mesh of reasonable guage bent into a U shape could protect your hoses.
I used a "sock" over my exhaust . You could very briefly grab it without injury. I added another two layers of other heat insulation but oddly it was not any cooler than with just the first original layer so i will also be interested in how to keep it cooler ideas.
 
Could you box in the hoses leaving an air gap to make sure the boxing doesn't get too hot. Perhaps fill the gap with insulation. Might reduce your storage space though.

I like the idea of mesh bent around to stop the pipes getting crushed.
 
I have heater to install and these questions are relevant for me also.

The hot air outlet - I think I can sort by limiting where the pipes go ... maybe a single outlet in main cabin and then small fan to circulate cabin air.

The exhaust though is a serious matter for me as I have only the transom locker for it ... and that needs to be used for storage. Protection of stowed items as well as access to the LPG compartment is inside that locker ... luckily against hull port side. The heater will be sectioned off to stbd ... or if I can figure out how - maybe use the engine bay.
As I think about it ... the heat from the exhaust needs to be drawn away and not allowed to just build up in the insulation.
 
I had the same problem with the hose running through the cockpit locker . After repairing it several times I replaced it with a piece of stainless tubing, you have to insulate it of course.
 
I did wonder if there was any way to water cool the exhaust hose .. may sound daft - but think on. If a small electric pump could take water from engine cooling water inlet and through a double wall exhaust tube ? Even if pump failed - as long as exhaust is installed as if there was no extra cooling - worst would be designed hot exhaust. I don't think the water could be injected into the exhaust hose itself - unlike an engine - the heater does not produce sufficient pressure to keep water out of heater. Therefore it would need a jacket style cooling or small heat exchanger style ?

mmmm more I think about this - the more I think its possible.

With model boats some with serious sized engines ... cooling of the engine can be by metal piping coiled and wound round the cylinder head / exhaust manifold ... water fed into such could easily reduce exhaust outer temperature.
The pump would be switched along with the heater main ON - OFF.
 
If I were going to water cool a heater exhaust, I would also look at keeping that waste heat in the boat. Consider using a closed system with the cooling water being itself cooled through a mini radiator/fan (as used by some water cooled PC builds) inside the boat.
I use a similar setup to import chilled water into a wine storage cupboard from an adjacent freezer. A very different usage but the hardware would be very similar.
Very dependent on location and pipe runs.
Probably not worth the effort in real terms but if tinkering pleases you it could be satisfying.
 
I did wonder if there was any way to water cool the exhaust hose .. may sound daft - but think on.
The worst possible thing you can do is to cool the products of combustion to dew point.

Any heating engineer knows how long a stainless heat exchanger on an oil fired condensing boiler lasts!

I have seen them rot in less than 18 months way worse than Nat gas condensing boilers.

This is usually not just because of the carbonic acid from co2 but because of sulphuric in the exhaust condensate from heating oil.

Surprised given your back ground that you would even consider cooling the exhaust from an ebbersplutter!
 
I used the spiral stainless tubing used to line a chimney to protect the hot air pipe where vulnerable. Not cheap but strong.
 
If I was going to water-cool heater trunking I wouldn't bother to install a heater!
Box in the trunking with ply and stuff the boxes full of loft insulation.
I think you have missed the point.

The thought was to water-cool the heater exhaust not the hot air outlets which do indeed benefit from a wrap of insulation!
 
I had heater duct passing through an area where it was vulnerable so opted to use thick walled cardboard tube nice 6ft length,"think it was fishing rod delivery" been fine 4/5 years easily tie up Ty wraps no drooping , luckily same id so just a couple of adapter sleeves needed. Thinking of just protection for existing ducts use carpet roll tubes ducting inside and worried of damp on cardboard paint with cheap gloss beforehand
 
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