Propellor anti fouling

[Chris_Stannard]

Last year prior to launching I blackleaded my propellor. When the boat came out of the water I tought it has not worked but on closer examination I find the black lead hasf formed a boundary between the prop and the fouling so the fouling can be chipped off with relative ease.

I also heqard that lanoline did well but was not able to try that last year, any one experience of lanoline for a season and how effective it is.

Chris Stannard

 

[Skyva_2]

Just lifted out and last years coat of lanolin left the prop and shaft reasonably clean. Mind, the whole hull was very clean so maybe it was a low growth year for sea life.

Chap at the boatyard recommended the spray on clear antifoul, never used it myself, but I think I will stick (ha ha) with lanolin for a while.

Keith

 

[snowleopard]

thick and sticky

seems to be the rule, anything that won't come off easily. i used vaseline which worked for a while but had to be reapplied regularly.
my prop suppliers told me volvo made a special a/f for props; volvo said they didn't and bronze props don't need it (shows how much they know)

 

[colvic]

Our boat is in the Med and suffers a lot from barnacles, especially in Northern waters.

Having a metal rudder last year we took it back to bare metal, primed and painted in two pack paint then two coats of antifouling. A total of 3 barnacles only.

We painted the prop as well, and bearing in mind it rotated at some 1700 rpm for at least 300 hours between May and August what was stuck to the prop came off it seconds. Definately doing it again next week as when we cleaned last February I didn't realise how much power had been lost due to the dirty prop and intend to keep her really clean from now on.

Phil

 

[dickh]

There has been a lot of discussion about this in the past - I intend to use Anhydrous Lanolin this year - when I can get some, my local(small) chemist just laughed when I asked for some...

dickh
I'd rather be sailing... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[oldsaltoz]

G'day Chris,

The Lanolin works well, but you need to polish the prop first and heat it when applying the Lanolin for best results.

Hope this helps.

Avagoodweekend Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif

 

[Chris_Stannard]

Many thanks for the advice, the black lead seems to have worked in protecting the propeller but does not seem to have stopped the growth. Incidentally I used a bit of wood to chip the growth off to avoid scratching the surface just in case anyone tries it for next year.

I will give lanolin a whirl to see what happens

Chris Stannard

 

[Guest]

Surely this basic piece of maritime equipment is always 'propeller' and never 'propellor'.
It sounds here and in my experience that there are varying effective antifouling measures for the prop (!). dependent on geography, season, availability for cleaning and other factors. Bronze cannot be damaged by coarse dry sand paper, nor by wire brush on revolving hand drill.

 

[seaesta]

Cant the Australian contingent send over some lanolin? I thought this stuff was old dried up sheep sweat and there must be tons of it laying about in the outback!
I would try the local Yorkshire sheep for you but the buggers refuse to sweat!

My own preference is to anti-foul the prop - people say this is useless but it works for me.

Anyone got any tips for keeping barnies off the Keinzle log impeller?

 

[spark]

You can buy lanolin (Lanacote) here - www.classicmarine.co.uk

 

[Twister_Ken]

I used Vaseline last year - disaster. This year painted the prop with Blakes Waterline (Blakes recommendation for a prop) which is normally a boot topping paint. Where it stuck, the prop was clean - unfortunately towards the blade tips it had come off, and I had all sorts of flora and fauna hitching a ride. Next season, I'll try Lanolin.

 

[Guest]

If you can find the Interlux/International equivalents where you are, this should work.....it does in Florida's warm salt waters:

First, ONE heavy coat of 35B Vinyl-lux Prime Wash.

Second, TWO coats of 2000E Interprotect on all metal parts.

Third, then TWO coats of a hard modified epoxy bottom paint with cuprous oxide.

I'm going to do this next haul-out. The past two years I've just been having a diver clean my prop. A friend of mine with a Morgan 33 like mine has used this method for several years successfully.

Reality is the cause of all stress!!

 

[ccscott49]

I used to black lead my props in UK, but with black lead, not the stuff you buy for fireplaces now, I think real black lead is now illegal. In the meddy, especially in the area of the Ebro river delta, I use antifoul, the black lead is just not man enough for this area of severe fouling. I use hard racing or boottop paint, it works fine, but my props are very slow turning, 500 rpm max, so they dont suffer withh too much wear and the paint stays on, I'll be doing them again this year. By the way, a lot of props these days are brass, thats why they dezinc.

 

[Chris_Stannard]

Sir Walter Raleigh is quoted as having said words to the effect " That a man who only had one way of spelling a word was a very poor fellow, and I have several for most." Standardisation was introduced (by Dr Johnson?) in the early dictionaries.
Many thanks for your help anyway

Chris Stannard

 

[Guest]

Don't know the K. impeller: does it not withdraw from hull (inside) for cleaning?

 

[LeonF]

I worked in a chemist years ago and we sold anhydrous lanolin to nursing mothers. A small chemist should be able to order it for you- not the cosmetic stuff that is emulsified with water to make it softer. Don't know how effective it will prove. I polished my bronze folder to a a fine shine last season( much chortling in the club yard) but it was soon covered in barnacles. This year I bought some VC teflon anti-foul and primer in aerosol cans going cheap at Captain Watts before they closed down so lets see how they work.

L.A.R.Ferguson

 

[gunnarsilins]

Volvo saying..

...that a bronze prop doesn´t need antifouling probably has to do with their Swedish roots...
It´s true that in Swedish waters, especially the Baltic sea, a polished prop can stand up to 12 months in water with only minor slime on it.
But Volvo should know better when speaking of UK waters!