Problems with Sikaflex

Finola

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2 Jun 2010
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Hi,

I used Sikaflex on a colin archer last year and it has been very unsuccessful, with many leaks and adhesion problems. I have read all of the threads on using sikaflex and none of them answer the question of why it didn't adhere.

The boat has teak decks with oak covering boards. The worst problem areas are on the oak and I am wondering if sikaflex is not suited to oak? I am torn between using Jeffries Marine glue as I know it works or using sikaflex. Part of my dilemma is that I have not routed out the entire deck and if I use marine glue, it will join areas of sikaflex(and Scandanavian Rotobond ). Help!!!

I have contacted the technical guy with sikaflex in dublin but he was to get back to me and didn't.
 
Hi Finola. Welcome a board.
Your problem is a common one Sikaflex does NOT work as glue.
It does make an excellent bedding if on a reasonable surface area and then the two faces are puled up with screws or bolts.
All my Floors are bedded with it as is my Carling's and the trick is to apply and just nip up to a close fit then when the Sikaflex has cured you then pull up the joint tight.

Some pics of the problem may help peeps to give you further advise.
For me if it is a traditional planked deck then scrape, rout or gouge out the seams and caulk and pay up in the traditional way.

I have seen lots of peeps make attempts with all the preparation fluids and such on deck and cockpit teak covering and the Sikalex always seems fail in the end.
A 1/4" x 1/4" slot is just not enough for it to get a grip and last even if you put a anti stick strip in the bottom of the seem.
 
Are you using the correct Sikaflex. For " glueing" or rather bonding you need 298. It comes in sausage form. Marine Superstore stock it.
 
Please remember that both teak and oak are "oily" woods and most glues will not stick permanently to them. Yes you can improve adhesion with all sorts of primers and preparitary lotions but in the long term results will be poor.

For the same reason it is difficult to varnish both teak and oak satisfactorily and it will eventually peel off. :(
Try CT 1, a bit like Sikaflex but supposed to be better, even sticking underwater. It might be an improvement. ;)
 
This is odd. My boat is oak and has Sikaflex on the lands and it sticks like s**t to a blanket.

It is also varnished and has been for many decades - no problems there or with the teak cabin which is also varnished...

I suspect your problem may be to do with the use (or not) of a primer. Marine & Industrial I have found to be very useful for advice.
 
Bostik also do a very good adhesive/caulk. PM me if you'd like more details. The main problem is the oils in the wood rising up and destroying the bond. What one has to do is put in a primer which resists the oils.
 
Hi, yes using correct one for deak caulking 290dc. I've done the prep work. Just not wanting to ever have to do this job again. I think I am veering towards marine glue as at least I am guaranteed it will work. Thanks everyone for getting back to me.
 
There are better and cheaper alternatives to Sika, the one used for instance on the decks of the Warrior in Portsmouth harbour was arbo thane 1200 I think.

This is a sealant adhesive and has better properties in strength of adhesion etc than equivelant sika product as well as a longer shelf life and open life.

Have a look here or call them they are very helpful.
http://www.arbo.co.uk/index.asp?id=7
 
I've been using an automotive product called "Final Systems" imported by Finishline Products at Doncaster and I can really reccomend it. (You can send me my free case now Keith). Joking aside, it is a real contender for Sika. I too have used Arbothane, but it does not flow as well as Final Systems.
 
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