Prep to start Volvo 19hp inboard after 7+ yrs

[GaryBmth]

Hi everyone, thank you for reading. Due to ill health & COVID, our Sun Odyssey's Volvo 19hp inboard hasn't been started for several years but I'm now able to do a lot more again thankfully so am preparing to get it running again.

I've put a new impeller in and thoroughly cleaned/polished the cover. I've emptied the old fuel from the tank completely so it's bone dry and very clean (it was a little bit yuk in the bottom but not awful, possibly just sediment).

I've made a list of things I think I should look at. I'm pretty sure I've got a workshop manual somewhere and I've got tools and am fairly mechanically minded, just don't have a huge amount of boat or diesel experience.

My list so far is as follows, in no particular order. If anyone has any ideas, tips, thoughts, warnings or spots anything missing, I'd be very grateful...

Check air filter (probably replacing with K&N washable as old one has fallen apart).
Check exhaust elbow to make sure it's not coked up or blocked, if I can get to it and get it apart?
Check propshaft joint, is the sea seal where you squeeze it to let some sea water in to lubricate it perished or gone hard & does it need replacing, hopefully not. Should I spray it with silicone lubricant?
Fill with new fuel, can I get original non plant based additive fuel to avoid bug or just use additive and not worry?
Look at how to bleed the diesel through to ensure no air in the fuel system.
Change oil and filter.
Look at how I could lubricate cylinders, with oil or wd40 or mix of both, to protect the rings and bored
Do I need to remove and check or replace injectors?
Lubricate anything that moves, like throttle related assemblies
Should I spray belts for water pump etc or will that just make it slip or should I replace it (it looks ok from just looking at it but might need a closer inspection)
Manually turn engine first a few times (spanner/lever on the crankshaft/fan pulley?) to check everything is free and moving.
I read in another post to check the valves and springs haven't got stuck so they don't hit the pistons. Can I just do this with the covers off and manually turning or do I need to do any disassembly of anything do you think)
Many thanks
Gary
Bournemouth

 

[AntarcticPilot]

It would help if you could specify the model of the engine - Volvo have made several different ranges of inboard engine, with different characteristics. But what you've mentioned sounds good.

I wouldn't touch injectors unless there's evidence of them giving trouble. They are unlikely to stop the engine from running, and once it's running, a smoky exhaust would indicate possible injector trouble. But removing and reseating injectors can cause trouble; also spare sealing sleeves are difficult to source for some models of Volvo (OEM parts not available). You might get away with removing the injectors without damaging the seals - I did - but you might not.

 

[ylop]

You didn’t mention the fuel filters - I would be changing both of them.

I’m guessing it has a heat exchanger and “fresh” water coolant (actually an expensive Volvo green fluid)? In which case I would change that (and probably might as well clean the heat exchanger too).

I would also just replace the alternator belt rather than spraying stuff on an old cheap bit of rubber.

Bio/“real” diesel isn’t going to make any difference for starting/running it. Some people think it matters for storage - add biocide to help keep your tanks clean.

I wouldn’t spray wd40 in the cylinders that feels like it would have the opposite effect from you hope.

Exhaust elbow should be an easy job but can be a PITA. If it was functioning ok 7 yrs ago it won’t be any worse. Might be easier to with the heat exchanger off anyway but otherwise I’d say it’s not essential for a successful restart after storage.

 

[Refueler]

Personally ... yes I'm a lazy b***** when it comes to this sort of thing ...

Change filters .... change oil ..... fuel in tank ... bleed fuel through ... turn engine over by hand or if you have valve lifters - then you can give starter quick dabs to turn engine over small amounts to make sure its not locked up. I would not spin engine yet ..

If all seems good ... then I would have a go to start it ... lof of short bursts of starter to try and get oil into cylinder bottom to ease the rings etc ... then give it the start ... careful not to make it go too high a rpm ...
Once running and a reasonable mod fast idle - check exhaust for water / colour of smoke.

She'll probably smoke a bit for a while ... so short periods of faster rpm .. back to low ... etc to ease her back into service.

After 7 yrs - I would definitely keep an eye on that exhaust elbow ... not unlikely to have had water lay in it and corrode ...

I do not advise others to follow my lazy ways ... but there ye go ..

 

[xyachtdave]

…I do not advise others to follow my lazy ways ... but there ye go ..

I thought you’d listed a lot of sensible steps!

I’d just start it.

 

[ducked]

Ar some point, check zinc anode(s) if its got them, though you could defer that until after you see if it runs, unless access is notably easier right now.

 

[WoodyP]

Assuming she goes, check the gearbox oil.