Ply sealed onto grp with sealant

[webcraft]

Am replacing the ply on the cockpit seats. It is just marine ply stuck down with sealant. When I treated the old ply six years ago I painted the back (down side) with Danboline.

When taking the old wood off it appeared that in many places the seal has broken at the paint coat, not the sealant.

So my question is, this time should I paint the underside of the ply with Danboline before sticking it down, should I seal it with something else or should I leave it untreated?

(Topside will of course be varnished)

- W

 

[PCUK]

Clean off all the paint where the sealant is to go. Roughen the ply surface where the sealant will be applied. Then paint the areas which will not have sealant on them. Let the paint dry then apply the sealant to the roughened areas covering all unpainted wood with sealant, then place in position and allow the sealant to cure. I would suggest using CT1 as the sealant/adhesive.

 

[oldbloke]

If the plywood is only going to last 6 years, would it be better to seal and treat the wood as well as possible and then attach with something less permanent than CT1?

 

[webcraft]

If the plywood is only going to last 6 years, would it be better to seal and treat the wood as well as possible and then attach with something less permanent than CT1?

I am hoping it will last longer than that. Last time was a 'redo' using the existing wood, and the sealant eventually failed on one side because I was too economical with it. This time I will use more sealant and will not paint the underside of the wood all the way to the edges.

- W

 

[Hacker]

G4 is a very good sealant. You could of course use epoxy.

 

[KevinV]

I'd use thin epoxy all over, then it's sealed properly. Varnish on top of that for the pretty side

 

[RunAgroundHard]

Use clear penetrating epoxy sealer. It seals and makes the surface preparation excellent for adhesion of other coats.

I used the stuff in the links on my cockpit locker lids a few years ago, then varnished, and not a drop has lifted or been undercut with moisture.

Very likely will be better that Danboline, sealer that you are using now, with long lasting results. A little goes a long way, an excellent product.

Make Wood Good - Protect Preserve and Restore
Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES)

 

[webcraft]

Use clear penetrating epoxy sealer. It seals and makes the surface preparation excellent for adhesion of other coats.

I used the stuff in the links on my cockpit locker lids a few years ago, then varnished, and not a drop has lifted or been undercut with moisture.

Very likely will be better that Danboline, sealer that you are using now, with long lasting results. A little goes a long way, an excellent product.

Make Wood Good - Protect Preserve and Restore
Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES)

This sounds like excellent stuff, but I am in Portugal and need to do this job in the next few days.

 

[Hacker]

You will be fine with any decent epoxy. The warmer it is the better it will flow. If you can source Bonda G4 with its thinners then that will work as well.

 

[webcraft]

Man who is cutting the wood recommends two coats of a decent yacht varnish thinned 50/50 all over. He's given me enough varnish and I managed to track down some white spirit, so all set to go when it stops raining!