Plug cutters

Storyline

Storyline

Well-Known Member
Joined
11 Oct 2004
Messages
2,086
Location
Liverpool - boat Ardfern
Visit site
I need to make some hardwood plugs to fill holes (previous post). I have looked at Axmnister and they sell a set:


700346_l.jpg


and they also sell a cutter and drill set.

LSTPC6_l.jpg


It it necessary to get the drill also or can I just use an ordinary wood drill ?

Many thanks for any info.
 
Re-sharpen a bit that is the correct size
i usually reshape for drilling timber

note how the bit is reworked & copy holding the end of the bit @ 90 deg ( ish ) to the grinder stone edge & the end your holding tilt down by about 30deg then a slight twist of the wrist. easy init /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
You will have loads of interesting fun unless you use a pillar drill!

[/ QUOTE ]

I second that! Don't even think about just holding the drill in your hands - you will have a plank of wood whirling about uncontrollably on the end of your drill. Or if the plank is clamped, you will be whirling about on the other end of the drill!

Even with a pillar drill you need to hold the wood down very securely - preferably clamped.
 
Those replies sound very intimidating /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I had a feeling it was not going to be easy. Most of the holes are on vertical surfaces so Pillar drills are out. One thought I have had is that there are pre-existing holes so I suspect the drill might judder around which I suspect is not good! Would it be good to glue some wood roughly in place and then drill that?

Sailorman - I do not understand your post. Do you mean that the drill in the set above is different to an ordinary wood one?
 
[ QUOTE ]
It it necessary to get the drill also or can I just use an ordinary wood drill ?

[/ QUOTE ]

I use a lip and spur (or forstner) wood drill bits and then cut plugs with equivalent mm sized plug cutters.

You can get combination drill/counterbore/plug cutters but I prefer having a little more control.
 
Sorry saumur, I was mixing up the two parts of the process.
Cutting the holes is no problem - I have used large drills or a countersinker going in deep.
The danger comes in making the plugs, by drilling into a scrap bit of the same wood. I once thought I was secure by resting one foot on a bit of wood and standing over it holding the drill tight. The slightest variation from vertical entry causes the cutter to bind in the wood and the next thing I knew the wood had been whisked from under my foot and was spinning and oscilating violently on the end of the drill.
The second attempt I stood with both feet on the wood and found myself thrown off my feet with a bruised wrist from the kicking drill. That's when I realised how useful a pillar drill could be.
 
That drill is slightly tapered to match the taper that the plug cutter puts on the plug. There are other makes of plug cutter that create straight parallel plugs, but those need an accurate hole.
They probably suit putting pellets over fastenings in bright work better, 'caus you can then use one shot drills to drill pilot, clear hole and counter bore in one go, which will speed up the fastening process.
 
Saumur2,
As others have noted there are two parts to the plugging process - making the plugs and making the hole for them to go in.
Firstly plug making. Any of the plug cutters in the Axminster range will do the job, but in terms of accuracy, sharpness and longevity you do tend to get what you pay for. I use the tapered 'snug-plug' cutters (p328 of current catalogue) with good results, both on the boat and in my furniture commissions. Whatever pattern of plug cutter you use the vital thing is to use them with your drill held in a vertical drill stand, or with a pillar drill. Depends how much you want to spend - for years I made do with a cheap mains drill in a cheap drill stand, but once you have a good pillar drill you'll wonder how you ever got by without it. It is almost impossible to use the plug cutter freehand, as it will skitter across the wood as you try to start the cut. When making plugs choose a nice straight-grained piece of wood so that the plugs will break out cleanly and not misbehave when you come to chisel them flush after installation. If you let the plug cutter just break out through the edge of the stock this will help the dust to escape and stop the bit overheating or breaking off the plug whilst cutting it. Practice makes perfect.

The next stage is to make a matching hole. The key things here are a nice clean edge and accurate size. If you are drilling a new hole for a fixing then you could use a lip & spur type drill bit, also called 'dowel drills' or sometimes just 'wood drills', or 'brad point drills'. (see p325 - this is getting like an Axminster advert!) These give a nice clean hole. 'Normal' twist drill bits are really designed for metal cutting and tend to chew the edges of the hole - not really good enough for cabin joinery. I like to use Forstner drill bits (p327) to make holes for plugs as they produce very clean holes and are very docile, even when drilling in at an angle. With lip & spur or forstner bits the drill is guided by its centre point, so you need to drill the plug-hole first, then drill in with pilot and clearance holes for the screw or whatever fastening you're using.

When dealing with existing holes (e.g. plugging holes left after removing redundant fittings) things get a bit trickier. Lip & spur bits, or forstners, won't work because there is no material in the hole to guide their centre points - if you try they'll just skid around and mush the edges of the hole before they get started. One way round this is to drill a hole of the right size in a piece of scrap ply or MDF, and clamp, pin, or glue this over the screw hole to act as a guide. A couple of spots of superglue can work well for this - it doesn't need much holding, and a sharp tap with a hammer will take it off afterwards. Another excellent technique is to start the hole with a step drill (p330). These will self-centre in an exisiting hole and cut very cleanly. Take the step drill in to a few mm of the correct diameter hole, then continue to depth with a twist drill, lip & spur or forstner.

Don't be put off if this sounds complex - once you've got the right kit and had a bit of practice you'll soon be plugging away.
 
Though I have a commercial pillar drill, if on the boat one could use a scrap piece drilled to the outside dia. of the plug cutter and use it as guide clamped to the stock. Just start the drill AFTER entering the guide.
A
 
I always cut my plugs free hand with both feet on the timber and the drill guided with my legs . You need to just plunge the drill in rather than aiming it but its a very quick way to cut lots of plugs .
 
You dont need a pillar drill to drill the holes, just to cut the plugs, the drill and plug cutter set in your photo are excellant, I use them all the time.

If you have existing holes to plug you may have to go up one size as removing the old plugs usually damages the edge of the hole. If I were doing it I would put in some s/w sacrificial plugs to allow me to redrill holes to a slightly larger diameter
 
That is professional advice NDH exactly as it should be done
When cutting plugs with pillar drill set up a fence so as the plug cutter just breaks through the edge of the timber this allows for easy removal of the plug without damage
when proficient no need for fence!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top