Please don’t say “Iroko”!

[14K478]

I must replace the rail cappings. They have been “bare teak” for too long. They are ex rail cappings, pining for the rain forests, and looking like the Wrath of God. This was once easy; buy some lengths of teak, a plane, and a plug cutter, and get to it. This is now not possible.

Secondhand teak in long lengths? Ideal… from where?

Iroko isn’t ideal. If left bare it goes too dark, and it’s inclined to split.

Any other wood?

 

[penfold]

Purpleheart maybe? Not cheap though.

 

[Tranona]

I must replace the rail cappings. They have been “bare teak” for too long. They are ex rail cappings, pining for the rain forests, and looking like the Wrath of God. This was once easy; buy some lengths of teak, a plane, and a plug cutter, and get to it. This is now not possible.

Secondhand teak in long lengths? Ideal… from where?

Iroko isn’t ideal. If left bare it goes too dark, and it’s inclined to split.

Any other wood?

Simple answer is no. Teak (at least the old stuff) tolerates such abusive treatment but far better to protect the timber than leave it bare. You are right, iroko is not particularly good for toe rails because it often has lots of curly grain. Either protect your teak to stop it eroding away or use straight grain mahogany if you can get it and again protect it. Alternatively Douglas Fir is good functionally, but needs protecting.

Teak was used in this wasteful way because in the past it was cheap. My father in law worked for a big furniture manufacturer in the 50s thru 70s and they imported premium furniture teak which came wrapped in second grade teak for free. We built a 100' long fence in his garden with it. It would have been good enough for sacrificial rub rails and toe rails. If we had not used it in this way it would have gone in the heating boilers at the factory. Much the same reason why teak was used for decks in the early part of last century - it was cheap.

 

[fisherman]

Keruing? I used it because it is very oily and resilient, but it can vary. Used for rough locations but also as a veneer. Dark in colour. Some was coarse grained, another batch smooth as silk. So maybe get a sample and try it

 

[MapisM]

iroko is not particularly good for toe rails because it often has lots of curly grain.

Actually, I had miles of iroko capping, just about everywhere in my old boat, and you would have struggled to distinguish it from teak.
Besides, she is by now 27yo, and all of them still look as nice as new.
BUT, they were always kept varnished - which is one of the reasons why she's not my boat anymore!
If the OP doesn't want that hassle, to my knowledge your short answer to his final question is correct.

 

[Grajan]

Keruing? I used it because it is very oily and resilient, but it can vary. Used for rough locations but also as a veneer. Dark in colour. Some was coarse grained, another batch smooth as silk. So maybe get a sample and try it

Can be very gritty and destroys tools

 

[fisherman]

Can be very gritty and destroys tools

Yes, but it does vary. Trad use for doorsills. I used to for gunwale capping on a FV, it was varnished and came up remarkably well, lasted as well.

 

[14K478]

Just to clarify- I don’t like or want bare wood. The boat is solid plastic apart from the companion doors (varnished teak!) and the rail cappings which were left bare by the former owners. I would be more than happy to varnish the rail cappings.

It is starting to look as if varnished iroko will be the solution. Purpleheart could be fun if it could be ordered cut to the required section as I gather it is evil to plane.

 

[doug748]

Teak comes up now and again on Ebay, but watch for being fobbed off with "African Teak" aka our friend Iroko. I got some good lengths of decking off a warship but you have to take the rough with the smooth and be able to convert it yourself plus there is a lot of wastage. Teak is really head and shoulders over most alternatives.

There is also Kebony and similar, which some boatbuilders are now using.

.

 

[Tranona]

Just to clarify- I don’t like or want bare wood. The boat is solid plastic apart from the companion doors (varnished teak!) and the rail cappings which were left bare by the former owners. I would be more than happy to varnish the rail cappings.

It is starting to look as if varnished iroko will be the solution. Purpleheart could be fun if it could be ordered cut to the required section as I gather it is evil to plane.

How bad is it? I have just refurbed lots of teak on my 1979 boat, although it was varnished or stained - most flaking off. Old teak can come up well with a bit of patience and then my choice of finish is Woodskin.

 

[WoodyP]

Yes, but it does vary. Trad use for doorsills. I used to for gunwale capping on a FV, it was varnished and came up remarkably well, lasted as well.

If you get a splinter it will fester. Ok for livestock lorry decks, but not on a boat deck.

 

[14K478]

How bad is it? I have just refurbed lots of teak on my 1979 boat, although it was varnished or stained - most flaking off. Old teak can come up well with a bit of patience and then my choice of finish is Woodskin.

It’s kaput. I’m seventy and for forty of those years I owned teak planked sailing yachts. Bought this one five years ago. My first plastic boat. The cappings had been scrubbed till the bungs started to pop out, then neglected.

 

[Tranona]

OK good luck with finding Iroko in long enough lengths and suitable for the sort of curves you need for rail cappings. I did this one in mahogany from 3.6m 30mm wide, 20mm thick in 1992, teak deck in 2014. Photos in 2019

 

[14K478]

Nice work.

My best option might be to look for plantation teak? It doesn’t have to take any structural loads.

 

[Plum]

I must replace the rail cappings. They have been “bare teak” for too long. They are ex rail cappings, pining for the rain forests, and looking like the Wrath of God. This was once easy; buy some lengths of teak, a plane, and a plug cutter, and get to it. This is now not possible.

Secondhand teak in long lengths? Ideal… from where?

Iroko isn’t ideal. If left bare it goes too dark, and it’s inclined to split.

Any other wood?

Oak? See my boom gallows below. The top is 34 year old Iroko that had the varnish crudely removed 15 years ago and left bare but the lower piece is bare oak fitted 12 years ago.


Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Tradewinds]

You could talk to this company. The length of iroko lumber I bought from them was pretty good.

Iroko Sawn Board Solid Timber Hardwood

 

[14K478]

You could talk to this company. The length of iroko lumber I bought from them was pretty good.

Iroko Sawn Board Solid Timber Hardwood

Thanks. It may come to that!

Incidentally - talk of the devil!

163. Hand-shaping 100 feet of curving Teak Cap-rails | Patreon

 

[Tradewinds]

Thanks. It may come to that!

Incidentally - talk of the devil!

163. Hand-shaping 100 feet of curving Teak Cap-rails | Patreon

In the comments someone came up with a figure of $40k for the 100ft of teak. Leo replied it was a roughly c $5k's worth. Still a lot of money! But what a beautiful job he made of it.

 

[Tradewinds]

Here's a supplier of teak who supply to a company who specialise in refurbishing teak decks among other things (Vakuumlimmade Teakdäck Orust VAKUUMTEAK I VÄST)

I know it's in Sweden but with your shipping connections it might be a viable option and they do use the words Burmese teak on the website.
TEAKLIST & DÄCKSRIBB - Kärnsund Wood Link

 

[Buck Turgidson]

Teak boards or planksI don't know what "asian Teak" is but I got some from these guys recently.