Plastimo Neptune Cooker

[10753]

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30 Dec 2004
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South Coast
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Model dates back to early 90's with flame cut out on both hobs, grill and oven (not thermostated). Two red, two black controls.

One hob now burns rather yellow and leaves soot on pans. I'm guessing this is oxygen starvation caused by rust/dirt etc. ?

My question is does someone have a manual that shows how to take the burner / hob apart so I can clean etc. ? Is it a simple job ? I'm not sure exactly how it comes apart and want to make sure I'm cleaning the right part.

Thanks
 
Best not to use it until you have fixed it, it's showing the classic signs of incomplete combustion due to air starvation, and will therefore also be emitting lots of lethal carbon monoxide.
(sorrty but I can't advise on fixing it!)
 
If it's anything like my 2000, the burner tops are held on by a brass grub screw in the side. It's probably seized, but a bit of gentle persuasion should get the top off for a clean anyway.

If that doesn't sort it, have look behind the gas tap for the misbehaving burner. You should see a fairly big pipe heading for the burner which will have a hole in it to allow pre-mix air in. Pull dead spiders and assorted grunge out of the hole.

If that doesn't work, you're on your own. BTW, I'm affeared that greenalien is probably right about the CO. If you must use that burner, make sure you've got LOTS of ventilation and if you start getting a headache, turn it off PDQ.
 
It's probably grease in the passages in the enamelled burner. Remove the countersunk screw in the top, lift the burner top off. This reveals the slots beneath, which need to be cleaned carefully. leaving soap in there will also make the flame yellow, so ensure it is perfectly clean before reassembling.
 
I spoke to the manufacturers a while ago when I had similar problems. They diagnosed it as a lack of secondary aeration. The burner sits in a cup with raised pips so it doesn't seal, allowing air to be introduced just before the burner jets. Cleaning the tray tends to allow some greasy water to settle in the gap and eventually blocks it. The manual for my 2500 advises removal of the burner at least annually to clean out the air gap. If it gets worse, the flames will stand off, not igniting until some distance from the burner.

If the manual for the 2500 would be of help to you, PM me with an email address and I can send you a pdf copy.

Rob.
 
you have the same model as me and the same problem, you will have to lever up the burner caps andblow the rust dust out from the reces below, then push the cap back down again, it only goes back one way.

Steve
 
I have a different cooker but experienced a similar problem at the start of the season. I used a Vax to suck out all the dust and dirt before cleaning, then cleaned with a stiff bristle paint brush and Vax again. There is probably a small jet at the bottom of the burner. Check there is nothing obvious stuck in it using a torch and or magnifying class. In my case there was a lot of rust flakes from a metal cage that sat inside the burner pot.

At the end of the cleaning mine burned quite well again compared to before but when I compare it with a new cooker its still not an even clean flame.
 
Thanks for all your hints and tips - fingers crossed its just dirt - hopefully the burner will break free - Funny, I bought the cooker new and I'd forgotten the burners used to sit loose without grub screws etc. Guess the Salt/Damp etc. has joined everything together !
 
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