Plastimo 608-S Furler

My 608s was seized at the top swivel and the drum. I think the difference between 608 and 609 is the furling drum cage and the bearings: mine were steel not delrin. Replacements very cheap on ebay and amazon, search for 2 x upper bearing - 58x45x7 with seal, and 2 x lower bearing if needed - 85x65x10 plus seal. I think total cost was £35 to refurb everything. It is quite easy to disassemble all parts with patience, but needs to be off the boat. Top swivel needs a cranked shackle to keep the line out of the way, and a diverter is available - part no 25720. Attached manual.
 

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If you can take the swivel off with the mast in situ (i did this, it does take a while) you can then do what l did and put the unit into hot water and flush the unit out. Then turn upside down and fill with WD 40, leave overnight. It worked for me. I didn't need to take the unit to bits.

The wrap fault was solved today by re doing the forestay tension and length, then tensioning via the back stay. The sail now furls fine. It seems to be quite critical to have the correct distance at the bottom inside the drum, so the unit does turn on the wire alone. All good now.
 
Hi, I have a 608-s. The lower drum is very stiff. Could someone please tell me how to split it to replace the bearings? Pictures would be great if you have them. Thanks. B
 
Hello all

I managed to get the swivel off. Boiled it and soaked it in oil and it spins a treat now! However just spent a few hours putting it back on only to find l get a halyard wrap at the top - grrrr

Can't seem to find a way of stopping it. I do have a big round deflector at the top and l wonder if that is jamming the whole thing? I have put a strop on top and then bottom but nothing stops the wrap - and no furling!

Any ideas anyone. I think it has to be something at the top causing the issue.

I gave up with the 'doughnut diverter ..... my system is one that Plastimo used to suggest but then stopped.

It uses a second line from the halyard riser ... a simple small block riveted to mast front and a line .. 6mm is good enough ...

So the sail is hoisted by the halyard while you also pick up slack of the diverter line. Once sail is fully hoisted and halyard made of ... you tighten the diverter line and this prevents wrap ...

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Having had this for over 25 yrs now ... I will not go back to the doughnut idea ... the second line just works.

I am well aware that my genny and furler is short. The extrusion was shortened after hitting an overhead cable which caused a bend ...

The previous owner had a set of sails made short on luff but long on foot .............. no idea why ... but at least I had no problem after cutting of top extrusion.

One day I will add another extrusion but I will still use a second line ... but with block moved higher of course.

And for anyone eagle-eyed ... the anchor light glass is bottom of a plastic coke bottle !!
 
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My only complaint about the Plastimo 608 is that I can't find a replacement 'double D' angled shackle to fit the furling swivel, all the parts list and product info show it but there is no part number listed and the ones available from other suppliers just don't fit.
 
Hi BOB.
RE:
Hi, I have a 608-s. The lower drum is very stiff. Could someone please tell me how to split it to replace the bearings? Pictures would be great if you have them. Thanks. B

If you read through these post from the beginning you will see photos of a top swivel disassembly (not what you are after).
A downloadable manual (what you are looking for) and some great advice on halyard wrap prevention.
If you haven't come up against this problem yet your boat probably has a wrap prevention system.
Or it hasn't happened to you yet.

I have a Plastimo 608 furler and these posts tell you almost all you need to know.
1. Use a foresail halyard to a bow cleat to take the strain.
2. Loosen forestay and remove drum. Check top swivel action while you are at it.
3. Work on drum at your leisure. Either clean up and repack bearings or fit new ones. Purchace from a regular bearing spplier, NOT a marine chandler.
4. Refit and sail away.

gary
 
Usual reason for stiff lower and upper ... is salt and crud.

I would suggest not to use boiling water to clear ... but hand hot water ... its plastic - even though its 'engineering' plastic - it does not appreciate being boiled !!
I would never spray WD40 in either ...

You can use a mild Kettle descaler in the water and then copious flushing after ...
 
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