Pics from our Croatia / Montenegro / S-Italy summer cruise 2014

[Kawasaki]

Only just seen this thread
Fantastic photos
I didn't think it would look like that
Thanks for posting

Yes, same here Hurricane, what a Post, thank you Hardmy, I was sat here thoroughly peed off with a 'Bug' of some sort all coughin an splutterin, whilst the rain beats down and the wind is blowing!
Your Post has made my Day, flippen brilliant, what a Cruise and what great pictures etc etc etc
Your post/ pictures/ You Tube content have really captured the atmosphere etc
Brill
Going to 'read' again
Thank You
K

 

[Hardmy]

Lastovo

Thanks to you all for the kind words. The Med is not only SoF or Spain . May those pics give ideas to some of you to move your boats in the Adriatic for a season!


Leaving Primosten for Lastovo. Is this Rogoznica? I don't remember...

The N-approach between Mrcara and Lastovo

Mrcara lies on the W of Lastovo. It is probably a private island, but totally deserted at the time we went there. We were surprised about the good walking tracks, we soon understood why.

The island probably hosted a garrison (dating back to communist times) of the size of a company. The barracks are still to be seen.

The pier was unusually big for an unhabited island

And the ship bunker. I tried it with my boat (with a bit of horn testing), be assured that much bigger boats fit in there!

This makes me think about how it must have been to serve the country on such island and cruise/patrol those waters? Maybe more relaxing than my own military experience (like living in a tent built on a glacier)

Sorry for the thread drift.


We didn’t found Veli Lago bay that interesting but did stop in Mihovil harbour in order to walk up to Lastovo village. The port from uphill:

And more uphill. It is obvious on those pics were the depth is totally insufficient. I wasn’t plotting our position that carefully, because the piers and the bollards at the dangerous place are very big. I am glad having routinely checked the depth sounder. No one would imagine that there are dangerous rocks right there! I guess there is only space for 1-2 boats behind us.

Count only 20 min. for the walk up to the village. There was an (open) post office and a small supermarket, but I don’t think that it is the place for an ultimate culinary experience.

The other mini-port to deserve Lastovo is Lucica. But we didn’t try to moor:

On our way on the N-side of Lastovo

The lovely anchorage of Saplun, a small island lying E-wards to Lastovo. To enjoy only with calm conditions

Lastovo has certainly more to offer, but that’s all we did. I the vicinity, I would strongly recommend Vis and Korcula islands as well. But we didn’t visit them this year.

Next comes Mljet.

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

Leaving Primosten for Lastovo. Is this Rogoznica? I don't remember...

No, it looks like Primosten itself. Definitely not Rogoznica though

 

[MapisM]

Yup, Primosten it is. Seen from SW of its peninsula, and in the morning, judging by the sun position!
That aside, is by chance the Matterhorn, in the background of the glacier tent pic?

 

[Hardmy]

Serious thread drift...

No, it looks like Primosten itself. Definitely not Rogoznica though

Yup, Primosten it is. Seen from SW of its peninsula, and in the morning, judging by the sun position!

You are of course 100% right (the building center right with the arcades helps for identification)

That aside, is by chance the Matterhorn, in the background of the glacier tent pic?

100% right again! Are you also a mountaineer??? The camp was established right at the italian border, BTW. (we never know what does dangerous Italians may do) ;-)

Since winter is coming, another very serious thread drift: I cannot resist and post a few pics taken up there (I think it was my 2010 refresher course)

Loo digging:

Super Puma chopper giving us a lift:

Another Matterhorn in the morning sun:

Another morning, but with less viz (all those guys have real jobs in normal life: telco engineer, lorry driver, banker, farmer, salesman in a sportshop, etc.). Going there every 2y was (I am finished with my duties this year) a welcomed change...

 

[MapisM]

Are you also a mountaineer??? The camp was established right at the italian border, BTW. (we never know what does dangerous Italians may do) ;-)

Yep, I did my share of climbing around the Alps, but I'm afraid that happened more years ago than I would want to count...

Re. dangerous Italians, there's a funny story about the Cervino/Matterhorn: many years ago, the Swiss authorities complained with Italy because occasionally the PAN (National aerobatic team, AKA Frecce Tricolori) used to cross the border along the Alps while training.
The Italians sent an apology letter, together with the PAN calendar, obviously with some beautiful pics.
But in one of them there was the Matterhorn in the background, and - guess what - it was taken on the Swiss side of it....
Talk about being guilty as charged!

PS: very nice pics btw, well worth the O/T!

 

[rbcoomer]

Yes, many thanks again - more superb pictures! I love the 'boathouse', although not sure I'd have tested the horn in there - ouch! :encouragement:

 

[Hardmy]

Mljet / Elaphiti islands I

Mljet, the island-inland lake which is part of a national park.

Only tripper boats can navigate this lake, they connect also with an island and its former Benedictine monastery

This lake is connected with a small canal to another one

All-in it was a pleasant excursion, but just too many people.

Also, we did not like at all Pomena the main harbour. Crowded, lots of tripper boats with loud and drunk people. There is a marinero directing boats where to moor (its stern-to with laid moorings). I was already backing-in when he appeared and wanted me to go to another place. I understood later why. Each electricity post belongs to another restaurant; he probably wanted me to plug-in at his friend’s post. Pomena harbour in a nutshell: expensive and not that friendly. So no pics.

Much nicer was the channel on the N-side of the island which connects to Polace.

There was quite a number of bigger yachts moored in Croatian style.

The entrance to this channel from the E (as we were leaving)

Peaceful evening ambiance during our passage to the Kolocepski Canal and the Elaphiti islands.

The entrance is a bit hidden

 

[Hardmy]

Mljet / Elaphiti islands II

Kitsch in little doses should not harm

Next day, was control day. First came the customs, they chose one of the newer bigger Mobos and pulled away. Soon after came the Port captaincy (who’s the next victim?)

But no, they came for 4-5 hours pour l’apéro and chat with a pal

The pier with some space available (only at its head)

This island has a troubled history. Only one year ago, an aging witness unveiled the location of a massacre of ~200 Croatian and German POW by Tito's partisans during WW2. Until the beginning of the 70ies, no one was allowed on the island. Then a summer camp has been built for Serbian kids in de mid seventies. Eventually, the last camp has been held in 2003 probably, since then both governments fight about ownership and usage while the facility is completely left abandoned. This is how it looks now:

Bungalows, big house, small house

Peace and goodness

SWMBO and mom were a bit spooked…

We met a very friendly local, a former engineer on ocean going ships, who lives there on his boat during the whole summer. It’s probably due to him, that the premises haven’t been more vandalised.

 

[scubaman]

Fabulous pictures, Hardmy, and a fantastic strory! Very interesting.

Your mountain pics remind me of a swiss mate a shared a hut with while fulfilling my military duties some (ok, many) years ago. He had a dual citizenship and by doing his bit in Finland he didn't need to attend the annual/biannual(?) courses back in Switzerland. Very brave of him, he didn't speak a word of Finnish when he came but soon learned enough to be admitted to the canteen . A nice guy.

What camera do you use, btw?

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

Thanks again, hardmy. What was the Customs boat checking? The old crew list system seemed to have disappeared after Croatia aceded to the EU last year so I'm wondering what else they could be interested in

 

[vas]

Thanks again, hardmy. What was the Customs boat checking? The old crew list system seemed to have disappeared after Croatia aceded to the EU last year so I'm wondering what else they could be interested in

Mike,
Greece is in the EU (at least theoretically but let's not elaborate as it's going to be too much of an OT...) for many years and last time I checked crew lists were still on
silly system. In our case though they also check all the safety stuff, flares, fire extinguishers, lifejackets, etc. The idea is that IF they want to give you a ticket they will find a way to

love the pics and the story Hardmy, hope there's more to see and read

cheers

V.

 

[BartW]

The old crew list system seemed to have disappeared after Croatia aceded to the EU last year

for private boats they became less strickt on the crew list system, but officially not yet disappeared,
pressure comes from Croat ministers, they don't like that some of their female guests, names appear on a list ;-)

for commercial boats
and customs passage, in / out EU
a crew and passenger list is still a obligation

 

[BartW]

Greece is in the EU (at least theoretically but let's not elaborate as it's going to be too much of an OT...) for many years and last time I checked crew lists were still on

Vas, the Manager of the Fuel dok in PM is from Greece,
Kosmas told me that theoretically when navigating in Greece, you should check in / out with the crew list at the harbour master, in every harbour where you stop !?
this old rule is luckyly not applied strict anymore, he told me

 

[vas]

correct Bart, but you generally don't want to gamble as it's on their discretion to fine you if paperwork is not right...

and adding to that, I guess foreigners will get away much easier than locals

 

[MapisM]

I guess foreigners will get away much easier than locals

I suppose that's true just about anywhere, not only in Greece. And for good practical reasons, if you think about it.
You mentioned before the controls on safety stuff, but how can they be aware of what the requirements are for an EN (or whatever) flagged boat...?

 

[vas]

I suppose that's true just about anywhere, not only in Greece. And for good practical reasons, if you think about it.
You mentioned before the controls on safety stuff, but how can they be aware of what the requirements are for an EN (or whatever) flagged boat...?

you're right MM,

no idea what/how they do checks on foreign flagged vessels...
For sure they don't have to go through the in and out of the water check every four years that Greek leisure craft have to (well, mine has, and I don't know what LOA does this testing business start)

cheers

V.

 

[AndieMac]

Really interesting thread you have created here H with all the local politics thrown in, besides the great photos and video.

Nice work!

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

for private boats they became less strickt on the crew list system, but officially not yet disappeared,
pressure comes from Croat ministers, they don't like that some of their female guests, names appear on a list ;-)

I can perfectly understand why its required for entering/leaving the country from/to outside the EU but surely the requirement to list crew coming from inside the EU is in contravention of the EU's principle of free movement? Do they still ask for crew lists when docking in marinas? We were still boating in Croatia after accession on July 1st 2013 and the marinas seemed to stop asking for it so I thought the whole thing had died a death. Obviously I was wrong. Old communist habits die hard!

 

[BartW]

I can perfectly understand why its required for entering/leaving the country from/to outside the EU but surely the requirement to list crew coming from inside the EU is in contravention of the EU's principle of free movement? Do they still ask for crew lists when docking in marinas? We were still boating in Croatia after accession on July 1st 2013 and the marinas seemed to stop asking for it so I thought the whole thing had died a death. Obviously I was wrong. Old communist habits die hard!

In spring, at the end of my delivery trip from Rome to the south adriatic, I navigated straight from Brindisi to Cavtat Croatia,
On arrival in Cavtat I got in touch with my old friends, harbour authority's, in charge of the moorings, and in a big enthousiams to meet again they immediatly guided me to a mooring on the main quay.
After lots hand shaking and hugging, I told them that I wanted to do the necessary paperwork first before start the drinking,
then I noticed some freezing on their faces and they asked me "where do you come from"
I said "no worry's, I come straight from Brindisi Italy, all part of the EU", but then I saw some panic in their eyes, because then I should go first to the customs quay !! (only 100m further on the same quay), because HR is not part of Chengen ! they told me.
Then they started talking silently croat between each other, and one of them, L, said wait!, he went straight to the Police office, luckyly that day there only was one young assitent, no main officer,
so L arranged with that guy that I could do NOW and URGENTLY my paperwork with the boat NOT on the customs quay, which I did ofcause immediately, (visit Harbourmaster office with crew list, then police office, and then customs), all good from then.

On all subsequent border passages there this summer, (in total 20 times , 10 in and 10 out) when going to the police office, the first question I got each time was "where is your boat", and as it should be, I alway's was FIRST on the customs quay.
even if I had booked on the main quay for that day.

I was told that a yacht got a penalty, as he tried to pass customs, while the boat was on anker, and he came with the tender.

you can immagine what kind of traffic there is in summer all day, this is the first border passage when coming in to Croatia from the south (montenegro, Korfu, Greece, south Italy,..)