Pics from our Croatia / Montenegro / S-Italy summer cruise 2014
- Thread starter Hardmy
- Start date
MapisM
Well-Known Member
While I fully agree that it's just a useless PITA, I suspect that asking for some docs, per se, isn't actually against that principle.
Which is something else from Schengen agreement, in fact.
In this respect, the explanation BartW got from that guy makes good sense, I reckon.
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
You're kidding? So even if you're coming from Italy, you have to go through the whole customs nonsense? The UK is outside Schengen but boats leaving/entering the UK don't have to go through this stuff.
Regarding the right quay for customs clearance, I nearly got my boat impounded and myself arrested in Mali Losinj a couple of years ago when entering Croatia from Italy. We got the last space on the town quay and then I walked the short distance to the customs office to do the paperwork. The customs officer went ballistic when he saw that we hadn't moored directly outside his office. When I politely pointed out that we had got the last space on the town quay and didn't want to lose it and suggested that he walk 50m to look at my boat or alternatively I would do the paperwork in the morning when we left, he went completely crazy threatening to arrest me unless I brought my boat to him within 5 mins. Luckily the guy in charge of the town quay moorings accepted a bribe to keep the mooring for us whilst we moved the boat 50m to the customs quay. I must admit that I had hoped that since Croatia joined the EU, all this idiotic customs and crew list stuff had gone away
Regarding the right quay for customs clearance, I nearly got my boat impounded and myself arrested in Mali Losinj a couple of years ago when entering Croatia from Italy. We got the last space on the town quay and then I walked the short distance to the customs office to do the paperwork. The customs officer went ballistic when he saw that we hadn't moored directly outside his office. When I politely pointed out that we had got the last space on the town quay and didn't want to lose it and suggested that he walk 50m to look at my boat or alternatively I would do the paperwork in the morning when we left, he went completely crazy threatening to arrest me unless I brought my boat to him within 5 mins. Luckily the guy in charge of the town quay moorings accepted a bribe to keep the mooring for us whilst we moved the boat 50m to the customs quay. I must admit that I had hoped that since Croatia joined the EU, all this idiotic customs and crew list stuff had gone away
vas
Well-Known Member
jfm
Well-Known Member
Many thanks hardmy for such a great account and beautiful pictures (sorry to be slow - I only just read through this). I realise the time it takes to put all that together. I recognised a few of the places (mljet) and the pictures brought back happy memories. Also congratulations on your very fine new boat
Hardmy
Well-Known Member
Cavtat - no way
Thanks to all for your kind messages.
Sorry for being off-line the last days, was very busy at work with lots of travelling. This WE will be calmer, so I’ll come along with another instalment soon.
But first the questions:
Mil service was biannual, until it changed for cost saving purposes not that long ago to annual. Your friend was very brave, I guess that weather can be very rough in the North and Finnish language has probably 0% in common with a Latin language or German!
Camera is an old D40... or my Iphone.
I haven’t been checked myself to date. They spent ~20 min. on a quite recent ~60ft. Sailyacht.
I had my worst experience with officials in Cavtat. Many German told me to avoid this harbour; the Liveboard section of this parish said the same. Despite this, we went there without prejudices. To date, we had only positive experience with Croats. My wife is Czech, their language is similar, they have some cultural/historical ties, hence the feeling of being always welcomed with open arms.
So we where starting our stern to quay manoeuvre with the anchor while the guy with a white t-shirt yelled at us whether we are clearing-out or staying in Cavtat. We answered that we wanted to make a short lunch-stop allowing also my wife to catch her plane from the nearby airport. OK, we were told, that would be free of charge (the harbour was nearly empty) if we don’t take leccy. Nice!
Our berth was only 10m. from the yellow mark signalling the custom’s quay.
After lunch, I went to the port captaincy for clearing-out. He asked where the boat was “10m. next to the yellow quay, is it OK?”. No problem at all, he put his stamps and so I needed only the passport control for the three of us remaining on board. At the Policija I told again that my boat was 10m. yellow from the quay. This time they were quite rough (especially the young police woman), I am to move the boat immediately otherwise I’ll get into trouble. “Those are the rules”.
OK, got back to the boat and came alongside the yellow quay just after a British SY left (they were alongside as well). Dad stayed on the quay to receive the mooring lines. As he was doing so came a very aggressive guy, without badge, without uniform ordered him to leave immediately the area delimited by a little chain. On the same time he started to shout at me, I am not allowed to go alongside and must start the manoeuvre again and use my anchor. Since we were finished I wanted to leave the boat (the paperwork was done, I just needed the last stamp).
He started to insult my dad who was begging for a grace period of 3min. I was really shocked of such never seen agressivity against my dad (he’s a nearly 70 yo medical doctor and all goodness). Meanwhile the guy had already called the police and I saw them running towards us. Our luck was, that another vessel (a big tourist boat) was coming in and for a reason I ignore they (police + a guy with a white t-shirt from the harbour authority) started to violently argue with them. That gave us a couple of additional minutes of rage shouting from the non-official guy.
When finally the policija came to us, the non-official guy started to hug with the 2 from the police (especially the policewomen) and it was very clear that they were very good friends. Then they told us to move immediately the boat stern-to, because we are now against the Law. There were not able to tell which Law had such provisions, and I mentioned that they never asked me to use my anchor until I was nearly finished going alongside. And I watched other boats going alongside, as well. Anyway, there was no other boat wanting to clear-in/out so I wasn’t disturbing anybody. And finally, who is this guy without any official status giving orders?
At this time a lot of passerby started to agglutinate around us, and I saw some mobile phones coming out taking pics. They had either the choice to arrest me and/or my dad in front of a crowd or give in and stamp the passports right now. They did the latter at the end.
Despite what had been said to us at the beginning, we paid also the full mooring fee for Cavtat quay (with a receipt from the harbour) + another fee paid to the non-uniformed guy (his receipt was issued on a Ltd. company). We have no clue for what we paid, I just wanted to leave as fast as possible. I was such in stress that I nearly collided with another boat while leaving. Don’t ask who is benefiting from the funds collected by the Ltd. and for which service. One can make it’s one conclusions…
So:
a) try to avoid Cavtat (but if clearing-in/out in Dubrovnik your are obliged to leave the 12NM asap otherwise you’ll end with problems as well)
b) if going to Cavtat. Go to this bloody quay, stern-to and be prepared to be directed by an un-official guy who will then perceive a fee for no apparent reason.
Next comes finally Montenegro. The fantastic gulf and the Promised Land of Tax Free fuel ;-)
Thanks to all for your kind messages.
Sorry for being off-line the last days, was very busy at work with lots of travelling. This WE will be calmer, so I’ll come along with another instalment soon.
But first the questions:
Your mountain pics remind me of a swiss mate a shared a hut with while fulfilling my military duties some (ok, many) years ago. He had a dual citizenship and by doing his bit in Finland he didn't need to attend the annual/biannual(?) courses back in Switzerland. Very brave of him, he didn't speak a word of Finnish when he came but soon learned enough to be admitted to the canteen. A nice guy.
What camera do you use, btw?
Mil service was biannual, until it changed for cost saving purposes not that long ago to annual. Your friend was very brave, I guess that weather can be very rough in the North and Finnish language has probably 0% in common with a Latin language or German!
Camera is an old D40... or my Iphone.
I haven’t been checked myself to date. They spent ~20 min. on a quite recent ~60ft. Sailyacht.
I had my worst experience with officials in Cavtat. Many German told me to avoid this harbour; the Liveboard section of this parish said the same. Despite this, we went there without prejudices. To date, we had only positive experience with Croats. My wife is Czech, their language is similar, they have some cultural/historical ties, hence the feeling of being always welcomed with open arms.
So we where starting our stern to quay manoeuvre with the anchor while the guy with a white t-shirt yelled at us whether we are clearing-out or staying in Cavtat. We answered that we wanted to make a short lunch-stop allowing also my wife to catch her plane from the nearby airport. OK, we were told, that would be free of charge (the harbour was nearly empty) if we don’t take leccy. Nice!
Our berth was only 10m. from the yellow mark signalling the custom’s quay.
After lunch, I went to the port captaincy for clearing-out. He asked where the boat was “10m. next to the yellow quay, is it OK?”. No problem at all, he put his stamps and so I needed only the passport control for the three of us remaining on board. At the Policija I told again that my boat was 10m. yellow from the quay. This time they were quite rough (especially the young police woman), I am to move the boat immediately otherwise I’ll get into trouble. “Those are the rules”.
OK, got back to the boat and came alongside the yellow quay just after a British SY left (they were alongside as well). Dad stayed on the quay to receive the mooring lines. As he was doing so came a very aggressive guy, without badge, without uniform ordered him to leave immediately the area delimited by a little chain. On the same time he started to shout at me, I am not allowed to go alongside and must start the manoeuvre again and use my anchor. Since we were finished I wanted to leave the boat (the paperwork was done, I just needed the last stamp).
He started to insult my dad who was begging for a grace period of 3min. I was really shocked of such never seen agressivity against my dad (he’s a nearly 70 yo medical doctor and all goodness). Meanwhile the guy had already called the police and I saw them running towards us. Our luck was, that another vessel (a big tourist boat) was coming in and for a reason I ignore they (police + a guy with a white t-shirt from the harbour authority) started to violently argue with them. That gave us a couple of additional minutes of rage shouting from the non-official guy.
When finally the policija came to us, the non-official guy started to hug with the 2 from the police (especially the policewomen) and it was very clear that they were very good friends. Then they told us to move immediately the boat stern-to, because we are now against the Law. There were not able to tell which Law had such provisions, and I mentioned that they never asked me to use my anchor until I was nearly finished going alongside. And I watched other boats going alongside, as well. Anyway, there was no other boat wanting to clear-in/out so I wasn’t disturbing anybody. And finally, who is this guy without any official status giving orders?
At this time a lot of passerby started to agglutinate around us, and I saw some mobile phones coming out taking pics. They had either the choice to arrest me and/or my dad in front of a crowd or give in and stamp the passports right now. They did the latter at the end.
Despite what had been said to us at the beginning, we paid also the full mooring fee for Cavtat quay (with a receipt from the harbour) + another fee paid to the non-uniformed guy (his receipt was issued on a Ltd. company). We have no clue for what we paid, I just wanted to leave as fast as possible. I was such in stress that I nearly collided with another boat while leaving. Don’t ask who is benefiting from the funds collected by the Ltd. and for which service. One can make it’s one conclusions…
So:
a) try to avoid Cavtat (but if clearing-in/out in Dubrovnik your are obliged to leave the 12NM asap otherwise you’ll end with problems as well)
b) if going to Cavtat. Go to this bloody quay, stern-to and be prepared to be directed by an un-official guy who will then perceive a fee for no apparent reason.
Next comes finally Montenegro. The fantastic gulf and the Promised Land of Tax Free fuel ;-)
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
Reminds me of when we were stopped for speeding in a rental car on the road north out of Dubrovnik airport near Cavtat. The 2 cops demanded an on the spot fine and then went straight into a restaurant nearby to buy themselves lunch, undoubtedly with my money
On the whole though I have found that marina people neither expect nor ask for bribes in Croatia. I did occasionally give a marinero €10 or so but only for exceptional service
BartW
Well-Known Member
I'm sorry to hear that you had such a bad experience in Cavtat, especially as this is our favorite place in the region. So we’re very familiar there, I’m sorry that we didn’t meet prior to your Cavtat passage. I have to admid that I have seen this happening a few times this season,
I have a small explanation for this, but that’s absolutely NO excuse for such behavior, IMO
the police woman, and also one male official can act really rude, and exploiting their "official" status,
they are used that guests start arguing with them, and they know that they will always win,
my tactic is to remain friendly despite violent interrogations etc.. and keep on smiling,
now they know me, and we make jokes, and they let me pass without any issue, it used to be different the first 2, 3 times
(I did 20 customs passages in Cavtat last summer)
The guy with the white or Red T-shirt, with a harbormaster logo, and mostly with a white pants thats Antonio, he's in charge of that quay, (since many years)
he HATES sail boats and small motor boats, because usually they discuss about the mooring charges (expensive !)
he has to keep space for many of his Ginpalace friends,....... ;-)
The mooring there is always stern to, with the bow anchor, sailors with rented boats have difficulty’s for doing this, and make a mess very often.
And finally; the quay is curved concave, so that very often anchor chains are tangled.
a diver is standby, but has to be paid 150 euro’s for one intervention, which is mostly a big point of discussion with sailboat owners.
Antonio is fed-up explaining all that to small boat owners….
next
you have to know that there is a complete separate charge for electric and water,
and this is MORE then the mooring fee,
actually the mooring fee is for Dubrovnik Community, and the leccy and water fee is for Cavtat Community, its ljust another mooring fee.
the guy in charge of that is Lari (or a studentjob assistent) he's in a wheelchair
and finally
there is the customs quay, the NW part of the quay with the chain railing, and yellow Q-flag.
From this year there is Dado, managing that part of the quay, and you have to pay a (small) official fee to him or his assistant (studentjob) for helping you with the mooring.
there were quite a few incidents in the past, and still now, with boats bumping in to each other…
Dado is employed by the community
their biggest problem is communication,
although they speak English very well, the Croat authority’s speak and listen in a completely different way to what we are used to.
When you asc them a question, they never listen accurately, make some assumptions, and their answers are always’s very short, and not always’s clear
If they tell you something quick and briefly, they expect that you understand the whole subject and context,
If they tell something two times to two different sailers on a day, they expect that every sailer that day has heard this Etc…
Again, no excuse for rude behaviour imho
But I can assure you it’s possible to get a good behaviour,
Just a few tips for future Cavtat passagers
- Stay away from the Cavtat quay with a small sailboat , Always’s ! at its best, you can anker in the bay, there used to be a fee for that, but I’ve never seen someone collecting that this season
Except for customs passage, you MUST moor on the customs quay, you can NOT do that with the tender, nobody can !
- If you come in from another country, raise the yellow Q-flag before entering the bay,
Navigate at 20..30m along the customs quay and try to get eye contact with the guy on the quay, he will point you to a mooring position.
If there is no guy, and there is space , BUT BE SURE YOU’RE on the correct part of the quay, then you can drop your anker in the correct position to start a stern too mooring with the bow anker.
Ones you are moored there, you can do your paperwork, and if you want to stay one night in Cavtat (I can strongly recommend) then you must find Antonio and asc him if there is mooring space available
When finished the paperwork, within 20 minutes you have to leave the customs quay !, not enough time for a short visit, or going to a restaurant,
but just enough time to do some quick shopping.
- When you’re in Croatia, and just want to do a one night stop in Cavtat:
anker in the bay, go ashore with the tender, and asc Antonio if there is space. You can try to navigate parallel with the quay, find him, get eye contact with him, and asc. They don’t have VHF nor official phone number. If you’re desperate for a berth, call Me.
When you want to leave the country, ancher the boat stern to the customs quay, even when you are in the NEXT position to it, YOU HAVE TO MOVE THE BOAT !!! and then do the procedure.
a tip here and there, or a Belgium beer can do miracles ;-)
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
Bloody hell Bart. I'm not going anywhere near Cavtat without you holding my hand
vas
Well-Known Member
Bloody hell Bart. I'm not going anywhere near Cavtat without you holding my hand
+1M
good thing that I'm likely to visit this area by car only
FFS, Bart Cavtat must be THE paradise on earth to worth all this hassle!
V.
BartW
Well-Known Member
Vas,
the hassle has mainly todo with the customs passage,
and iirc in this thread are similar reports about entering Croatia from other places
the main quay in Cavtat is like St Tropez in SOF, but much lesser space
in high season, its a struggle to get a place, so....
MapisM
Well-Known Member
LOL, that makes the controls in open sea from the Italian Customs a pleasure, in comparison...Bloody hell Bart. I'm not going anywhere near Cavtat without you holding my hand
...next time we might as well ask them a sea trial on their Buzzi RIB, while they are dealing with their paperwork!
Hardmy
Well-Known Member
Cavtat again
Bart, thanks for the additional infos about about Cavtat. Indeed it helps to understand but, as you said, not to excuse.
Well this time in our case, they didn’t. It was “all-or-nothing”, we had luck on our side that the discussion had such an audience of passerby (And, it was just common sense since we were needing only the passport check!).
This is really charming for our fellow sailors… But I must say this guy was very friendly at the beginning. But then he came, to help his pal below
This Dado is the big problem in Cavtat, besides being a very very rude person. I ask following questions:
a) how the heck can I recognise that this individual has an official capacity? (That would be the fourth person which has a say for this small town quay: The port captain, the police and Antonio the “harbourmaster”)
b) if he’s employed by the community, why are the receipts issued on a ltd. company? According to http://www.wosamma.at/bojenfelder/map.php there is no concession being awarded for this place (OK, this map has no official character)
c) even if he doesn’t touch your ropes, he will extract his 10-20€ out of you
Anyway, Bart, your infos are very valuable. No doubt, it will help others to avoid going into troubles.
I tried to find some acceptable pics of Dubrovnik and surroundings. But downpouring, cloud ceiling, etc. makes them all grey, hence the direct jump to Montenegro…
Bart, thanks for the additional infos about about Cavtat. Indeed it helps to understand but, as you said, not to excuse.
Well this time in our case, they didn’t. It was “all-or-nothing”, we had luck on our side that the discussion had such an audience of passerby (And, it was just common sense since we were needing only the passport check!).
This is really charming for our fellow sailors… But I must say this guy was very friendly at the beginning. But then he came, to help his pal below
This Dado is the big problem in Cavtat, besides being a very very rude person. I ask following questions:
a) how the heck can I recognise that this individual has an official capacity? (That would be the fourth person which has a say for this small town quay: The port captain, the police and Antonio the “harbourmaster”)
b) if he’s employed by the community, why are the receipts issued on a ltd. company? According to http://www.wosamma.at/bojenfelder/map.php there is no concession being awarded for this place (OK, this map has no official character)
c) even if he doesn’t touch your ropes, he will extract his 10-20€ out of you
Anyway, Bart, your infos are very valuable. No doubt, it will help others to avoid going into troubles.
I tried to find some acceptable pics of Dubrovnik and surroundings. But downpouring, cloud ceiling, etc. makes them all grey, hence the direct jump to Montenegro…
Hardmy
Well-Known Member
Kotor, Risan
The feeling of navigating on an alpine lake
Well, except for a few details…
Starting from “behind” i.e. Kotor town.
Well protected visitor’s quay, also from the bura. Laid morings. Cheap. Daily market right (fruits, cheese, Pršut, champignons, everything is fresh!) in front of the boat with the gate leading to the old town, what do you want more?
I can only encourage you to walk up the might fortress with it’s impressing views, or follow a track which hangs on the mountain side.
The town itself is somewhat stormed by cruise ship guests, despite this the locals remain very friendly and accessible.
Hovering the altar Montenegrin style:
The cathedral by night
Then leaving Kotor towards Risan.
We saw a few restaurants right on the water but did not have the time to try and stop there. i.e. it must be tested whether it is possible to moor there…
The feeling of navigating on an alpine lake
Well, except for a few details…
Starting from “behind” i.e. Kotor town.
Well protected visitor’s quay, also from the bura. Laid morings. Cheap. Daily market right (fruits, cheese, Pršut, champignons, everything is fresh!) in front of the boat with the gate leading to the old town, what do you want more?
I can only encourage you to walk up the might fortress with it’s impressing views, or follow a track which hangs on the mountain side.
The town itself is somewhat stormed by cruise ship guests, despite this the locals remain very friendly and accessible.
Hovering the altar Montenegrin style:
The cathedral by night
Then leaving Kotor towards Risan.
We saw a few restaurants right on the water but did not have the time to try and stop there. i.e. it must be tested whether it is possible to moor there…
Hardmy
Well-Known Member
Porto Montenegro
A few shots of Porto Montenegro, the new den of our esteemed forumite Bart. I do not have enough words to praise the level of the service. Especially the clear-in / clear-out is 300% a breeze compared to Croatia, extremely efficient and friendly staff. The whole complex is entirely new, but it doesn’t feel like a too fake Eurodisney, nor as a ghetto. The locals can walk everywhere around, and it give’s the place a friendly atmosphere. I was seriously considering to base the boat there, not only because of the tax free fuel!
Next and finally: Monopoli
A few shots of Porto Montenegro, the new den of our esteemed forumite Bart. I do not have enough words to praise the level of the service. Especially the clear-in / clear-out is 300% a breeze compared to Croatia, extremely efficient and friendly staff. The whole complex is entirely new, but it doesn’t feel like a too fake Eurodisney, nor as a ghetto. The locals can walk everywhere around, and it give’s the place a friendly atmosphere. I was seriously considering to base the boat there, not only because of the tax free fuel!
Next and finally: Monopoli
BartW
Well-Known Member
And the ship bunker. I tried it with my boat (with a bit of horn testing), be assured that much bigger boats fit in there!
Lastovo,
we were there in 2010 with the Karnic,
I'm quite sure it was the same bay
swmbo had her morning swim,
very nice indeed !
did you see / visit one of the submarine bunkers in the Kotor bay ?
I had a group diving in one;
6m wide, 10m deep, approx 200m long,... scary
have to make a report from last summer holliday's, you inspired me !
BartW
Well-Known Member
[This lake is connected with a small canal to another one
did they tell you about the current in this canal,
can be very strong, you can see and feel it,
and it changes direction one or two times a day (iirc)
[
There was quite a number of bigger yachts moored in Croatian style.
I have pictures from "Venus" and another one from "Maltese Falcon" in exactly this position, (still on swmbo's PC)
according some, Mljet - Polace is one of the nicest anchorages in the south Adriatic,
The entrance is a bit hidden
this is the preferred playground of our family, and probably our best place in the Adriatic;
the area between Peljesac, Olipa, Jakljan and Sipan,
in this case, pics can NOT replicate the athmosphere and vieuws you get there !
you had a glimse, but probably missed:
-kobas !
- overnight in the passage between Olipa and Peljesac ! (on the first of these three pics)
- a nice small bay NE side of Jakljan (on the right side, behind the passage in the second pic)
- and last but not least Sipanska Luka, the next bay N from the one with the former asilum, where you moored, (Sipan Luka would have been more memorable I'm sure !)
many years ago there was a plan to make a huge marina in this area (near Doli) similar to Porto Montenegro.
I've seen a maquette at Boot Dusseldorf some years back,
but I've been told that it was cancelled due to too many administrative obstructions,
a month ago I heard that this plan was back on the table.
Hardmy
Well-Known Member
Bunkers in Croatia
Sorry to all for my slow updates, I was travelling quite a lot the last couple of days, week-ends included.
You’re nearly correct. The bunker shown in your pics is highlighted with a red circle in the map below, this is indeed a nice place but with lots of boats anchoring there. My pics were shot not far away, at the bunker shown with a yellow circle:
I think that there was one, shortly after entering the bay on the right side. Correct?
Re bunkers in Croatia / Montenegro in general. From the two dozen existing, I’ve personally seen a few on Vis, Dugi Otok, Brac, Lastovo and Sibenik. All (but Sibenik) are actually very similar. It’s merely a hole in a mountain with, besides the main entrance for the ship, a single side gallery leading to the exterior. The main entrance is not armored as such, but merely protected from aerial reconnaissance by a camouflaged iron structure which closes the basin. There are no signs of any elaborated facilities (radio, electricity, replenishment or ABC protection). But please go ahead with your mega bunker pics, the Montenegrin one seems to be much more spectacular!
I regret not having had more time to spend in your playground. I wish also we had motored up to Ston (the famous walls and eating fresh mussels). There is also a beautiful bay NW of Sipan, but it was too windy for us. We passed nearby Sipanska Luka as well but didn’t moor, weather was poor so we decided to continue to Dubrovnik.
It is true that his part of Croatia has really a lack of marinas. There were plans to do something big in Dubrovnik (a Marina Frapa development?) as well as the ACI project in Slano. Whether it will materialize one day is anybody’s guess…
Sorry to all for my slow updates, I was travelling quite a lot the last couple of days, week-ends included.
You’re nearly correct. The bunker shown in your pics is highlighted with a red circle in the map below, this is indeed a nice place but with lots of boats anchoring there. My pics were shot not far away, at the bunker shown with a yellow circle:
I think that there was one, shortly after entering the bay on the right side. Correct?
Re bunkers in Croatia / Montenegro in general. From the two dozen existing, I’ve personally seen a few on Vis, Dugi Otok, Brac, Lastovo and Sibenik. All (but Sibenik) are actually very similar. It’s merely a hole in a mountain with, besides the main entrance for the ship, a single side gallery leading to the exterior. The main entrance is not armored as such, but merely protected from aerial reconnaissance by a camouflaged iron structure which closes the basin. There are no signs of any elaborated facilities (radio, electricity, replenishment or ABC protection). But please go ahead with your mega bunker pics, the Montenegrin one seems to be much more spectacular!
I regret not having had more time to spend in your playground. I wish also we had motored up to Ston (the famous walls and eating fresh mussels). There is also a beautiful bay NW of Sipan, but it was too windy for us. We passed nearby Sipanska Luka as well but didn’t moor, weather was poor so we decided to continue to Dubrovnik.
It is true that his part of Croatia has really a lack of marinas. There were plans to do something big in Dubrovnik (a Marina Frapa development?) as well as the ACI project in Slano. Whether it will materialize one day is anybody’s guess…
Hardmy
Well-Known Member
2014 report: the end
Last but not least, the conclusion of our 2014 cruising.
We planned staying longer in Boka Kotorska, but we soon realized that a period of longer troubled weather was ahead of us, hence the need to cross the Adriatic earlier than expected. Unfortunately, we were not alone realizing this, which explains that the tax free fuel dock was booked several days in advance giving us no other choice than to leave the boat in Porto Montenegro, fly home and come back later to move the boat to its winter berth in Italy. But then, a little miracle occurred and we were able to squeeze into a small gap of PM’s fuel dock agenda to take or 2.200l. The paperwork involved with the tax free refueling was very well organized and quite straight forward. Clearing-out of the country was quick, friendly and efficient as well. So off we went to Bella Italia!
Leaving the mouth of the Kotor gulf,
in company of dolphins,
soon to be replaced by the compulsory kitsch scenery,
to further navigate through the night:
From 01:00 a.m. the boat’s motion became uncomfortable and it was not possible to sleep anymore. But anyway soon after at 02:00 a.m. we entered Monopoli’s harbour, at the cost of a few scares: many trawlers were fishing; to differentiate them from the coastal light halo was a bit challenging.
Unease started as soon as we were beginning to tie at the inner mole. A car with 3 guys inside drove on the narrow mole and halted right in front of the boat. They started to star at us while walking around like in cow-boy modus, and after a couple of minutes they wanted to give “advice” and made comments about mooring arrangement etc., but one couldn’t understand what was going on and it was quite an uncomfortable situation. So my mom asked them bluntly what would their problem be? “Nienti problemi signora” we are the guardia di finanza. From then, ice broke and we all laughed. Pleasure crafts are rarely seen arriving in the middle of the night they said; that is why they wanted to see what sort of people we are. Consequently, they did not want to board the boat nor to examine any piece of paper. Quite the opposite in fact, they started to praise their region and gave us lots of advice and tips about things to do. They were extremely friendly and offered their help if we needed some during our stay in Monopoli. Unbelievable, such kind people! We didn’t have Bart’s Belgian beer with us to soften them, but the degustation of our Swiss chocolate had great success!
After getting up in the morning, I was asked by the port captain to pay a visit to his office. He just wanted to register that we entered Italian waters, that’s it. All very different from Croatia…
The visitor’s mole was free of charge (good protection, but no water/electricity):
Monopoli is a really pretty little town with a truly Italian vibe. Food is excellent and locals are very friendly. We are cultural enthusiasts, so were very happy to find so much to see. One particularity is the cathedral, its interior is 100% made out of marble and I’ve never seen this before:
We did also a pass by to Polignano,
before being lifted out at the Viro Mare yard:
As I write these lines, we just had our boat wrapped for the winter:
I am flying down to Bari next Friday in order to discuss with them my winter to do list and I will report on due course about my experiences. My first impressions are positive, it’s a 100% family run business specialized in building steel or timber fishing trawlers. Both brothers are very hands-on and personally operating the travel lift and arranging the propping. I wasn’t sure at the beginning if they are used to work on pleasure crafts, but soon after our arrival, a few other MY’s joined for the winter. I guess, owner of such €€€ vessels wouldn’t come if they weren’t sure about the quality of the service there.
Voilà, thanks for your reading! I do hope not having too much exaggerated with this avalanche of pics. May this thread be some help for your future visits in the Adriatic, an area, I believe, is somewhat unjustly less discussed in this parish. I am looking forward to the time, when the jimmy the builder’s, NickH’s, JFM’s or Hurricane’s will relocate their boat for a season!
For my part, I will probably base the boat in Corfu or Preveza next year. My intent is to go there via Albania. I’ll try to post on that as well.
Last but not least, the conclusion of our 2014 cruising.
We planned staying longer in Boka Kotorska, but we soon realized that a period of longer troubled weather was ahead of us, hence the need to cross the Adriatic earlier than expected. Unfortunately, we were not alone realizing this, which explains that the tax free fuel dock was booked several days in advance giving us no other choice than to leave the boat in Porto Montenegro, fly home and come back later to move the boat to its winter berth in Italy. But then, a little miracle occurred and we were able to squeeze into a small gap of PM’s fuel dock agenda to take or 2.200l. The paperwork involved with the tax free refueling was very well organized and quite straight forward. Clearing-out of the country was quick, friendly and efficient as well. So off we went to Bella Italia!
Leaving the mouth of the Kotor gulf,
in company of dolphins,
soon to be replaced by the compulsory kitsch scenery,
to further navigate through the night:
From 01:00 a.m. the boat’s motion became uncomfortable and it was not possible to sleep anymore. But anyway soon after at 02:00 a.m. we entered Monopoli’s harbour, at the cost of a few scares: many trawlers were fishing; to differentiate them from the coastal light halo was a bit challenging.
Unease started as soon as we were beginning to tie at the inner mole. A car with 3 guys inside drove on the narrow mole and halted right in front of the boat. They started to star at us while walking around like in cow-boy modus, and after a couple of minutes they wanted to give “advice” and made comments about mooring arrangement etc., but one couldn’t understand what was going on and it was quite an uncomfortable situation. So my mom asked them bluntly what would their problem be? “Nienti problemi signora” we are the guardia di finanza. From then, ice broke and we all laughed. Pleasure crafts are rarely seen arriving in the middle of the night they said; that is why they wanted to see what sort of people we are. Consequently, they did not want to board the boat nor to examine any piece of paper. Quite the opposite in fact, they started to praise their region and gave us lots of advice and tips about things to do. They were extremely friendly and offered their help if we needed some during our stay in Monopoli. Unbelievable, such kind people! We didn’t have Bart’s Belgian beer with us to soften them, but the degustation of our Swiss chocolate had great success!
After getting up in the morning, I was asked by the port captain to pay a visit to his office. He just wanted to register that we entered Italian waters, that’s it. All very different from Croatia…
The visitor’s mole was free of charge (good protection, but no water/electricity):
Monopoli is a really pretty little town with a truly Italian vibe. Food is excellent and locals are very friendly. We are cultural enthusiasts, so were very happy to find so much to see. One particularity is the cathedral, its interior is 100% made out of marble and I’ve never seen this before:
We did also a pass by to Polignano,
before being lifted out at the Viro Mare yard:
As I write these lines, we just had our boat wrapped for the winter:
I am flying down to Bari next Friday in order to discuss with them my winter to do list and I will report on due course about my experiences. My first impressions are positive, it’s a 100% family run business specialized in building steel or timber fishing trawlers. Both brothers are very hands-on and personally operating the travel lift and arranging the propping. I wasn’t sure at the beginning if they are used to work on pleasure crafts, but soon after our arrival, a few other MY’s joined for the winter. I guess, owner of such €€€ vessels wouldn’t come if they weren’t sure about the quality of the service there.
Voilà, thanks for your reading! I do hope not having too much exaggerated with this avalanche of pics. May this thread be some help for your future visits in the Adriatic, an area, I believe, is somewhat unjustly less discussed in this parish. I am looking forward to the time, when the jimmy the builder’s, NickH’s, JFM’s or Hurricane’s will relocate their boat for a season!
For my part, I will probably base the boat in Corfu or Preveza next year. My intent is to go there via Albania. I’ll try to post on that as well.
longjohnsilver
Well-Known Member
Thanks for taking the time to post a great report with brilliant photos. It has certainly wetted my appetite to visit Croatia/Montenegro. I spent a week on Brac a few years ago and enjoyed it, seems there is so much more to do and see in that region. It looks truly spectacular. And also interesting to see your boat, it's very similar to ours, also built in Taiwan.
