Photo of copper plated propeller

Props and sail drives are an enormous issue regarding antifouling, or keeping them clean - and Propspeed and Velox are neither cheap nor foolproof.

Copper plating is hardly new technology, raw copper has been used (think of copper clad square riggers or Coppercoat) - why has it never been done before on props?

And why are sail drive legs aluminium?

Why is the whole lot not some fibre reinforced polymer.

Jonathan

Kiwi props blades are just that!
 
I thought it a good result for 6 months - but maybe its in a low foul area, difficult to compare, needs a bit more background.


So if Kiwi props are reinforced polymer (with stainless inserts) (and I think cheaper than anything from Gori or Volvo) - why does not everyone make them? (and sail drives)

Jonathan
 
I fitted the prop in April time, and the boat was in Calais, I sold her in late August and she went to Portsmouth and was lifted out in late September. We motored most the way from Calais to Eastbourne after that I dont know how much use she had. The new owner sent me the photos of the prop. Calais marina at the time was open to the sea except for the half tide cill. I have US kit on the new boat and haven't anti-fouled for 5 years in Calais. Hope this helps.
 
If you have not AF the new boat and prop for 5 years - I want what you have got!

Our prop can host a complete covering of 3mm barnacles in 3 months here (and once its coated you have really lost the battle as you never get all the hards stuff off and anything left after a good scrape is a perfect location for the next lot of fouling).

Jonathan
 
If you have not AF the new boat and prop for 5 years - I want what you have got!

Our prop can host a complete covering of 3mm barnacles in 3 months here (and once its coated you have really lost the battle as you never get all the hards stuff off and anything left after a good scrape is a perfect location for the next lot of fouling).

Jonathan

If you can remove the propeller, soaking it overnight in 5%-10% hydrochloric acid removes every last trace of calcareous deposits, without harming the bronze.
 
We have 2 x 3 bladed folding Volvo props. To remove them you need to take them apart. There are about 13 components. They are not difficult to remove but you do need 2 different sized sockets, a hammer and screwdriver to flatten the locking washer (for the nuts), allan key and a hammer to knock the pins out. It is possible to do all this underwater but the opportunity to lose something critical is simply too high, except in an emergency. If you add in the anodes the number of pieces rises to 20!

I have thought of beaching, removing one prop, refloating and taking the prop home etc but manoeuvring a cat with one engine is a real skill - and the authorities round Sydney take a very dim view of beached vessels (environmental issues - we have been warned once, cannot risk a second time, though we might get away with it further away from Sydney, where the neighbours are more tolerant).

But HCl sounds a good idea, certainly easier than a wire brush on an angle grinder!

Propspeed is an option, but expensive, lasts only about 12 months and if damaged (hit something in the water) offers a location for growth to commence. Velox over Velox primer does not seem too good, Trilux over Interprotect, adhesion issues.

I know the thread is about electro-copper coating and the jury is still out, I know that Vyv with Hammerite and Velox has success and PropSpeed et al offer something of a solution - any other options? We will follow Vyv's lead next time and try Velox over Hammerite - but we have 2 props and can directly (almost) compare. What else can we try to offer a service (copper coating being one option).

Jonathan
 
Vyv,

I know nothing about electro-copper plating, or any other plating.

But a cautionary question for anyone who might think of trying this.

Are you in a position to comment on the amount of copper deposited and whether this thickness might impact the ability to re-assemble a folding prop. Our Volvo blades fit fairly easily into the recesses in the boss but each blade is retained by a very snug fitting stainless pin (which passes through the boss and each blade). We tap the pins (greased) very gently to insert them. It might be necessary to block off the holes in the blades and boss to allow maintenance of the minimal clearance for the pins.

I've never tried to measure the clearance, never been necessary to know - but its snug.

Jonathan
 
New Prop
DSC00582.jpg


Plated
DSC00604.jpg


After 6 months in Calais
PICT0927_zps8a41085c.jpg

PICT0929_zpsc19d07f4.jpg


Didn't work for me.
Excellent, thank you.
 
Vyv,

I know nothing about electro-copper plating, or any other plating.

But a cautionary question for anyone who might think of trying this.

Are you in a position to comment on the amount of copper deposited and whether this thickness might impact the ability to re-assemble a folding prop. Our Volvo blades fit fairly easily into the recesses in the boss but each blade is retained by a very snug fitting stainless pin (which passes through the boss and each blade). We tap the pins (greased) very gently to insert them. It might be necessary to block off the holes in the blades and boss to allow maintenance of the minimal clearance for the pins.

I've never tried to measure the clearance, never been necessary to know - but its snug.

Jonathan

Yes, I think it would be necessary to mask areas where clearance is critical. I think platers use chlorinated rubber paint for this but don't quote me.
 
If you have not AF the new boat and prop for 5 years - I want what you have got!

Our prop can host a complete covering of 3mm barnacles in 3 months here (and once its coated you have really lost the battle as you never get all the hards stuff off and anything left after a good scrape is a perfect location for the next lot of fouling).

Jonathan

I use a ultrasonics system which people on here say is snake oil and will not work. But hay ho what do I know :confused:

I do know that I have not antifouled fro 5 years :encouragement:
 
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