Hi have just removed the thermostat cover and discovered that there is no thermostat.(this was why the temp sender was reading below 40 deg.) Can the forum please tell me where and what model No. I need to order. (from ASAP i assume)
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Hi have just removed the thermostat cover and discovered that there is no thermostat.(this was why the temp sender was reading below 40 deg.) Can the forum please tell me where and what model No. I need to order. (from ASAP i assume)
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If it's raw water cooled - I would be inclined NOT to fit a Thermostat. Why ? Cooler running may not be best for fuel burn - but it stops build up of salts / deposits in the water channels of the engine. In fact even with closed cooling Heat Exchanger - I would be inclined to do without.
Recc'd range of temps for Perkins (thermostat opens / fully open at are :
Raw water cooled (direct cooled)
Opens at 52 C
Full open at 66 C
Closed heat exchanger (Indirect cooling)
Opens at 69 C
Fully open at 87 C
I would not think there should be much difference between models as water is water ...
I thought i read somewhere that is is better to run the engine at a higher temp, as it allows the engine to be more efficent, is this a fact or not, I would assume that a lower temp would be inclined not to dry out the condensation build up in the engine, please can you explain your reasoning for not put a stat back in?
I would imagine that running WITH thermostat fitted would be preferable for best running conditions.
Cannot agree with Refueler.
ASAP Supplies for the component ?
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I thought i read somewhere that is is better to run the engine at a higher temp, as it allows the engine to be more efficent, is this a fact or not, I would assume that a lower temp would be inclined not to dry out the condensation build up in the engine, please can you explain your reasoning for not put a stat back in?
regard
jasper
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Yes the engine does run more efficient at higher temp ... but then if raw water cooled - you start to deposit salts and sediments to the water channels in the engine, reducing water flow until eventually you have nothing and engine 'cooks'.
Page M2 of the workshop manual for 4-99, 4-107 and 4-108 engines says :
<span style="color:blue">
With earlier engines, the coolant was controlled by a hand operated valve on top of the water outlet connection, in order that the water temperature could be maintained at a maximum of 140F ( 60C ). With sea water cooling, this temperature should not be exceeded otherwise salt deposits are liable to form in the water jackets of the cylinder block and head, thus causing a restriction.
With later engines, the coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat and a pressure relief valve relieves the excess water pressure when the thermostat is closed. </span>
The above is for direct cooled engines.
My reasoning for advocating no thermostat is to prevent the build up of said salts. I would rather have a small loss in efficiency of fuel burn than the expense of cleaning out cooling water channels. With indirect engines - if you use hard water in the engine even though you have Anti-Freeze - you can get deposits as well - look in your kettle at home !
The thermostat listed for direct cooled is simply a Wax Capsule type and for indirect cooled Bellows type. No numbers given unfortunately. But I'm sure a quick call to Lancing Marine or similar will extract the ref. no for ASAP or similar to supply - they'll probably have a cross reference chart anyway.
I know my opinion is contrary to many - but I've run 4-99 and 4-107 for years and I have no cooling problems at all.