Perkins 4108 injectors preparing a spare set

[sailorman]

Copper you heat dull cherry red and quench in water. This will soften the metal. To harden copper you need to work it or if it is used as a gasket it will naturally harden itself with vibration.

check out #17 :encouragement:

 

[macnorton]

We will agree to differ! Manifold bolts? or nuts? Steel?
S
PS Just found this on an education site
"Experimental process
1. Prepare lengths of copper wire, 6 to 10 inches long, or tubing, 1 to 1.5 ft in length.
2. Ask selected class members to slowly bend the copper—careful not to cause
crimping.
3. Once bent, ask another class member to unbend the copper.
4. Discuss why the copper cannot be fully unbent due to work hardening.
5. Now work harden the copper more by hammering the copper into a flat rod.
6. If available, anneal the tubing at a high temperature (400C or 700F or higher)
7. After annealing, remove from the furnace and quench in water to cool
8. Re-bend and note that the material is soft again."

Manifold and exhaust bolts on some old UK cars (mg) were copper.

 

[Heckler]

Manifold and exhaust bolts on some old UK cars (mg) were copper.

In pedantic mood, nuts were brass, bolts were actually steel studs.

S

 

[sailorman]

In pedantic mood, nuts were brass, bolts were actually steel studs.

S

that what i understood too

 

[Heckler]

that what i understood too

You worked on a few A series engines as well?
S

 

[sailorman]

You worked on a few A series engines as well?
S

Just my mini van, head off, valves,guides ect in about 1969, the engine lasted longer than the van :encouragement:

 

[Heckler]

Just my mini van, head off, valves,guides ect in about 1969, the engine lasted longer than the van :encouragement:

I had my mini "lurve" van. There was a bunch of us, sprayed white with a red line down the middle. The back lined with quilted plastic, the all important carpet and notched piece of wood to hold the passenger seat up. Not nice dropping on your legs when on the vinegar strokes!
It was a 1961 one, in 1965 the subframe was rotten and the battery acid from the battery behind the seat had eaten an enormous hole. The sills were rotten and a few of us splashed out on oxy and acetylene bottles. We were superb at patching!
We were very accomplished at whipping the engines out. The idea of 20/50 oil for engine and box was a revelation but it didnt do the synchros much good!
I moved on eventually to a B series engined MGB, red roadster. Again, they used the brass exhaust nuts.
S

 

[Sarnia]

We will agree to differ! Manifold bolts? or nuts? Steel?
S
PS Just found this on an education site
"Experimental process
1. Prepare lengths of copper wire, 6 to 10 inches long, or tubing, 1 to 1.5 ft in length.
2. Ask selected class members to slowly bend the copper—careful not to cause
crimping.
3. Once bent, ask another class member to unbend the copper.
4. Discuss why the copper cannot be fully unbent due to work hardening.
5. Now work harden the copper more by hammering the copper into a flat rod.
6. If available, anneal the tubing at a high temperature (400C or 700F or higher)
7. After annealing, remove from the furnace and quench in water to cool
8. Re-bend and note that the material is soft again."

I have seen an old copper marlin spike, very hard, bounced off the floor when dropped, don't know how it was hardened.

Also an amusing story, many years ago at a party a friend had his wicked way with a girl in the bathroom of her parents house, he sat her on the washbasin, which due to their exertions pulled it away from the wall a foot or so, in those days the basins had the copper pipes, including the waste in copper, which resisted all attempts to go back into place as the pipes had hardened, according to the plumber who came in the morning anyway, we didn't tell him how it happened! some paint and was good as new. Only damage were bruises from taps.

 

[Sneaky Pete]

check out #17 :encouragement:

I did and ??????.

To anneal copper you heat and quench, don't allow to cool slowly. To harden high carbon steel heat and quench, don't allow to cool slowly or it will be soft.

 

[VicS]

I did and ??????.

To anneal copper you heat and quench, don't allow to cool slowly. To harden high carbon steel heat and quench, don't allow to cool slowly or it will be soft.

No just heat and copper allow to cool. It does not make any difference if you cool slowly, quickly or even quench. The only important thing is not to overheat or prolong the heating unnecessarily.


steel usually has to be tempered after hardening according to the intended use

 

[Heckler]

op

No just heat and copper allow to cool. It does not make any difference if you cool slowly, quickly or even quench. The only important thing is not to overheat or prolong the heating unnecessarily.


steel usually has to be tempered after hardening according to the intended use

?

 

[Sneaky Pete]

No just heat and copper allow to cool. It does not make any difference if you cool slowly, quickly or even quench. The only important thing is not to overheat or prolong the heating unnecessarily.


steel usually has to be tempered after hardening according to the intended use

The comparison I make is that two different metals going through the same process have completely different outcomes.


I will do it the way I have always done it for many decades now and you can do yours the way you want, hopefully we will get similar results.