Painting marks on an anchor chain

[HissyFit]

I'm going to investigate - I like the idea of heat treated paint - it sounds robust. A bit like road marking paint that is applied with heat - but available in sensible package sizes. I'm not sure why stoves need to be painted with day glo yellow - but that might be reserved for the Mobo forum

Jonathan

Have you ever crashed into a dayglo painted stove? Good, isn't it?

 

[Neeves]

Have you ever crashed into a dayglo painted stove? Good, isn't it?

I cannot even imagine a Day Glo painted stove, even less seeing one at sea- now I'm worried about nightmares

J

 

[coopec]

Maybe?
1x Yellow Line Marking Spray Paint Surveyor Road Marker Fast Drying 7500ml | eBay

General Purpose Bitumen Paint

Yellow And White Powder Road Marking Thermoplastic Paint - Buy Thermoplastic Paint,Road Marking Paint,Powder Paint Product on Alibaba.com

 

[noelex]

After googling "anchor chain plastic markers" (sorry PVB) and finding all the problems people have had with them I decided to use "Dulux Metalshield Epoxy Enamel". I presume from what you say my chain is destined for the recycle bin?

Maybe the guy that suggested using "CRC cold galvanizing paint: Zinc-It® ... " is on to something?

We anchor over 300 days a year so the chain marking system needs to be durable. I have tried all the options and I have not found paint very satisfactory. Perhaps there is better paint formula, but if it exists I have never found a paint that lasts much more than 300 nights at anchor, especially in hard sand.

The most durable option is spectra line (even polyester is not too bad) tied with reasonably long tails. I suspect leather would also be excellent. Unfortunately, the line becomes covered in mud which means you cannot see the colour. So if you miss one of the marks the count will be incorrect. Therefore I back these up with plastic chain markers. These are quite durable. Typically I would expect to lose 4 to five per year, but I mark each 10m with 5 plastic markers (using snooker colours). So typically they do not need to be renewed for the life of the chain. They do lose some colour with time, but if unsure if you scrape the marker with a fingernail the colour is obvious.

However, some users do report poor durability of the plastic chain markers. I think this depends on the brand and construction of the markers (the hollow ones are terrible) and how this matches the chain size. They should be difficult to insert.

My suggestion would be to mark the chain with spectra line, so that you will never need to measure out the distance again. Buy just one packet of plastic makers. If they prove durable during a trial period then buy some more and finish the marking. If not, try alternatives and if you can find paint system that lasts please let the forum know.

 

[LadyInBed]

Unfortunately, the line becomes covered in mud which means you cannot see the colour

I use quantity rather than colour - 2 long tails for 20m, 3 long tails and a short tail for 35m, etc.
Works well day or night.

 

[James_Calvert]

I marked my previous 50m chain with short lengths of braided polyester cord, probably 3mm stuff. The way I tied them, think it was a cow hitch, produced two tails. These were every 5 metres. And I tied a number of knots in the tails. 10m was marked with one large knot in the doubled up tails. 20m was 2 large knots in the doubled tails, 30m was 3 large knots etc.
The intervening 5m marker points were identified by a single small knot in just one of the tails.

So when I got to the marker with say 2 large knots and 1 small, I had reached 25 metres.

My next chain I marked with free cable ties that had come free for the purpose with copies of Practical Boat Owner. But I'll revert to my earlier system next time.

 

[coopec]

Surely there's cheaper ones of these around?

Metre Counter For Nautical Anchor NAUTI011X MzElettronic Chain Counter | eBay

Muir Authttps://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjvlLX_3NDzAhWd93MBHXAqCQ4QFnoECAYQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fforums.ybw.com%2Findex.php%3Fthreads%2Fdiy-anchor-chain-counter-project.353367%2F&usg=AOvVaw0Su3J4yDu1h4iK2eq2n193o Anchor AA150 Rode Counter, $469.90 | Whitworths Marine

DIY Anchor Chain Counter Project | YBW Forum
https://forums.ybw.com › ... › Motor Boat Forum

19 Mar 2013 — The aim of the project is to provide a wireless Anchor Chain Counter that uses a smart phone/tablet to display the amount of chain deployed.
Wireless chain counter 22 Apr 2017
Chain Counter - a Winter Project 11 Nov 2015
Anchor counters 21 July 2017
Anchor Chain Counter: how do they work? 29 Sept 2008

 

[Neeves]

Surely there's cheaper ones of these around?

Metre Counter For Nautical Anchor NAUTI011X MzElettronic Chain Counter | eBay

Muir Authttps://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjvlLX_3NDzAhWd93MBHXAqCQ4QFnoECAYQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fforums.ybw.com%2Findex.php%3Fthreads%2Fdiy-anchor-chain-counter-project.353367%2F&usg=AOvVaw0Su3J4yDu1h4iK2eq2n193o Anchor AA150 Rode Counter, $469.90 | Whitworths Marine

DIY Anchor Chain Counter Project | YBW Forum
https://forums.ybw.com › ... › Motor Boat Forum

19 Mar 2013 — The aim of the project is to provide a wireless Anchor Chain Counter that uses a smart phone/tablet to display the amount of chain deployed.
Wireless chain counter 22 Apr 2017
Chain Counter - a Winter Project 11 Nov 2015
Anchor counters 21 July 2017
Anchor Chain Counter: how do they work? 29 Sept 2008

Ah, But......

Your anchor is secured at the bow, so you need to go to the bow to release however the anchor is secured. The chain counter is at the helm, so now you need to go back to the helm to ensure the correct amount of chain is deployed - but you want to deploy the anchor in the small, circle of sand not infested with weed (and seahorses) - so you need to be at the bow to ensure you hit the target location - paint, plastic inserts, spectra line - means you save walking back and forth. If you do make the measurement from the chain counter - you still need to go back to the bow to attach the snubber and chain lock.

Your chain counter needs to be in a remote.

Its tough this anchor work

Jonathan

 

[thinwater]

Many windlasses power down. In that case, simply counting time can also work. In shallow anchorages, they have the advantage of not inadvertently piling chain on the anchor.

The idea of running one's hand along a running chain, in the dark, can't possibly pass muster with any safety standard. Not doing it. I've worked with too many people that are missing fingers. And with LED headlamps, why on earth would anyone ever need to work in the dark? That's just poor planning and a resistantce to admitting it.

 

[LadyInBed]

The idea of running one's hand along a running chain, in the dark, can't possibly pass muster with any safety standard.

That would be a silly thing to do, just visually count the marks as they pass.
If you loose count, stop chain at next mark and check.

 

[KAM]

I use small flags made from the labels sailmakers leave on my sail bags. I think it glass reinforced PVC. Just held on with cable ties. You can see them from the cockpit. I anchor all summer and these have been on over 8 years. Not sure how they stay on. It seems unlikely but they just go round the gypsy and into the chain locker without damage. You only need a few. The main one for normal anchoring depth and a couple for deeper depths and one to indicate the anchor is just near the bow roller.

 

[Neeves]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I don't know the green credentials of the owners of the new chain (and I suppose I could ask them) but some are concerned at the levels of plastic in the sea - though a few broken ends of cable ties or the plastic inserts are not much (but maybe still too much).

I'll try some thing like stove paint (which will also cause pollution) and maybe back up with cable ties with most of the tail cut off. I might replace the cable ties with leather shoe laces, cow hitched to the links.

Jonathan

 

[ZorbaTheLeek]

We use the Royal Navy diving convention for markers with the coloured plastic chain inserts. The colours are yellow and red with yellow being 3 Mtrs and red being 15 Mtrs. So 2 yellows = 6mtrs - 3 yellows = 9Mtrs - 4 yellows = 12mtrs then you go to 1 red for 15mtrs, next is 1 red and 1 yellow for 18 Mtrs and so it goes

 

[dunedin]

We use the Royal Navy diving convention for markers with the coloured plastic chain inserts. The colours are yellow and red with yellow being 3 Mtrs and red being 15 Mtrs. So 2 yellows = 6mtrs - 3 yellows = 9Mtrs - 4 yellows = 12mtrs then you go to 1 red for 15mtrs, next is 1 red and 1 yellow for 18 Mtrs and so it goes

Each to their own, but uses many more markers and, for anybody other than an RN diver more confusing, than a simpler 5 and 10 based system.

 

[Plum]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I don't know the green credentials of the owners of the new chain (and I suppose I could ask them) but some are concerned at the levels of plastic in the sea - though a few broken ends of cable ties or the plastic inserts are not much (but maybe still too much).

I'll try some thing like stove paint (which will also cause pollution) and maybe back up with cable ties with most of the tail cut off. I might replace the cable ties with leather shoe laces, cow hitched to the links.

Jonathan

I now use 300mm lenths of cotton ribbon cowhitched to the chain link. Goes through gypsy perfectly, last well and fully degradable.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Roberto]

We use the Royal Navy diving convention for markers with the coloured plastic chain inserts. The colours are yellow and red with yellow being 3 Mtrs and red being 15 Mtrs. So 2 yellows = 6mtrs - 3 yellows = 9Mtrs - 4 yellows = 12mtrs then you go to 1 red for 15mtrs, next is 1 red and 1 yellow for 18 Mtrs and so it goes

I find it difficult to spot single (or even double triple) plastic markers with links coming up at 90° to each other
I personally use a full packet (8-10?) for each mark, that generally leaves 4-ish visible ones. Likewise cable ties, to mark "three", exemple 30m, I put 3-4 ties on one link, then 3-4 on another link say 10-15cm away, then another 3-4 at the same distance; when they get progressively chewed I think it's easier to recognize the mark by the remaining ones.

 

[NormanS]

Many windlasses power down. In that case, simply counting time can also work. In shallow anchorages, they have the advantage of not inadvertently piling chain on the anchor.

The idea of running one's hand along a running chain, in the dark, can't possibly pass muster with any safety standard. Not doing it. I've worked with too many people that are missing fingers. And with LED headlamps, why on earth would anyone ever need to work in the dark? That's just poor planning and a resistantce to admitting it.

I have always thought that powering the chain down is ludicrous. Why use power when gravity will do it better and faster and for free.

 

[dunedin]

I have always thought that powering the chain down is ludicrous. Why use power when gravity will do it better and faster and for free.

Personally, having fitted an electric windlass, I would consider it ludicrous (and with inexpert crew potentially dangerous) to fiddle around releasing manual clutches to dump a load of chain in a pile, when I can use the equipment fitted to pay out chain smoothly and steadily - and if solo, can do from the helm whilst ensuring optimum position for anchoring.
The power used to lower chain must be minimal- and if that is an issue, you ain't got your solar panels and alternator sorted

 

[geem]

Personally, having fitted an electric windlass, I would consider it ludicrous (and with inexpert crew potentially dangerous) to fiddle around releasing manual clutches to dump a load of chain in a pile, when I can use the equipment fitted to pay out chain smoothly and steadily - and if solo, can do from the helm whilst ensuring optimum position for anchoring.
The power used to lower chain must be minimal- and if that is an issue, you ain't got your solar panels and alternator sorted

That's not how you do it. You keep the boat moving at 1kt. Impossible to pile it up.
When it's blowing 30kts in a crowded anchorage being able to free drop the chain ten times faster than powering it down is a huge benefit. Your anchor can hit the spot you want accurately. It's nothing to do with concern about power consumption.
When you free drop the chain you can tell when the chain hits the bottom as the speed decreases instantly.
I can see the attraction of powering down when single handed but otherwise we always free drop. There is nothing complicated in our windlass you simply release the break and off it goes. If you have 1kt of forward speed at the point of drop then put the helm hard over as the chain starts to go out, the windage of the boat pulls the chain out and you lay the chain in a nice arc with no chance of fouling itself

 

[Roberto]

That's not how you do it. You keep the boat moving at 1kt. Impossible to pile it up.
When it's blowing 30kts in a crowded anchorage being able to free drop the chain ten times faster than powering it down is a huge benefit. Your anchor can hit the spot you want accurately. It's nothing to do with concern about power consumption.
When you free drop the chain you can tell when the chain hits the bottom as the speed decreases instantly.
I can see the attraction of powering down when single handed but otherwise we always free drop. There is nothing complicated in our windlass you simply release the break and off it goes. If you have 1kt of forward speed at the point of drop then put the helm hard over as the chain starts to go out, the windage of the boat pulls the chain out and you lay the chain in a nice arc with no chance of fouling itself

With wind/tide one may end 100m away from the intended spot.
Also, if powering down, once the anchor suddenly sets all the load will be taken by the windlass; using the clutch one can let go chain more quickly, that leaves the time to make fast the chain with a short strop+hook (or chain brake, for those who have it) which will take all the load of the boat being stopped while going backwards.
I made all the job to fit a windlass switch in the cockpit, I used it 2-3 times then realized it was useless most of the times, except maybe with flat calm.