Paint Stripper

banger

Well-Known Member
Joined
24 Oct 2001
Messages
922
Location
Oxfordshire. Boats Maldon and Hamble
Visit site
I have to remove paint off of the table in my new acquisition, I suspect it's Woodstain or a variation, does anyone have a suitable suggestion, I understand that a great deal of products on the market are similar to the garden centre roundup, useless :)
 
I have to remove paint off of the table in my new acquisition, I suspect it's Woodstain or a variation, does anyone have a suitable suggestion, I understand that a great deal of products on the market are similar to the garden centre roundup, useless :)

Polyurethane wood finishes are difficult/ impossible to remove with chemical paint strippers otherwise as suggested caustic soda based strippers are generally the most effective

Roundup is probably very poor as a paint stripper.... its a weed killer. and a very effective one
 
ITYWF that it is dichloromethane based like the old Nitromors.

It is toxic , an ozone depleting substance and its use other than in indudtrial paintstripping plant is illegal

Well that brought me up short Vic! I've had a bit of read though, and its problem seems to be that it's not very good for a careless user. I do use it 'industrially' and only outdoors or with proper respiratory protection. The Ozone depleting bit puzzles me though, because good ol' Wiki mainly disagrees?
 
Well that brought me up short Vic! I've had a bit of read though, and its problem seems to be that it's not very good for a careless user. I do use it 'industrially' and only outdoors or with proper respiratory protection. The Ozone depleting bit puzzles me though, because good ol' Wiki mainly disagrees?

You are right I thought it was covered by the Montreal protocol but it isn't.
 
Polyurethane wood finishes are difficult/ impossible to remove with chemical paint strippers otherwise as suggested caustic soda based strippers are generally the most effective

Roundup is probably very poor as a paint stripper.... its a weed killer. and a very effective one

I am about to embark on stripping a lot of old varnish in the saloon of a recently purchased boat. I looked in previous threads and found STRIPPERS.
www.stripperspaintremovers.com

I have received a Stripper 4-A Trial pack. Going to try it next week
 
I am about to embark on stripping a lot of old varnish in the saloon of a recently purchased boat. I looked in previous threads and found STRIPPERS.
www.stripperspaintremovers.com

I have received a Stripper 4-A Trial pack. Going to try it next week

It is caustic soda based.
I note only suitable for solid wood, not veneered surfaces.
Hopefully your varnish is not polyurethane

Dont get any splashes on you. and do not risk getting any in your eyes at all Use gloves, and goggles or preferably a full face shield. A plastic apron, or the old oilies you use when scrubbing off and antifouling , would be good
Have a water supply available in case of mishap, an emergency eyewash would be good but I you will not, on your own, be able to open your eyes to flush them!.

Give thought as to how you will safely dispose of waste.
 
Thank you for your advice.
I have, in the past, used a similar product on previous boats, which of course does need careful usage. The interior is solid wood. I spoke with the manufacturer, something I would recommend, for advice on which of their products most suitable, and not entirely depend on my own long experience of such an enterprise.
 
I've been doing a lot of revarnishing recently, including two tables, and my preferred method now is a combination of stripper and scraping. Nitromors 'Craftsman' (i.e. spirit, not water washable), which loosens the varnish a little, then a Skarsten scraper. Quite often repeat the treatment. This seems to work well even with polyurethane varnish. Care must be taken to avoid scratching the wood with the scraper.
 
I used this product to strip the deck of my motorsailer. It is very nasty stuff as VicS points out but there is little doubt it is the most effective paint stripper available. Beware, it also attacks GRP.

Your warnings and advice are fully taken on board, no pun intended, I will proceed with all due caution. Thank you both.
 
If there is any doubt about dangers of caustic soda if you use an ordinary animal hair bristle paint brush it will quickly dissolve the bristles. You must use a nylon brush. Strange I find caustic useless on antifoul paint. If it drips onto the trailer it immediately removes the paint on the trailer. ol'will
 
2 years ago I stripped and re polished 14 tables complete in our sailing club. I used a carpenters scraper, plus I found an old electric planer blade which I ground to a slight curve & held in a set of Mole grips. For the moulded sections I ground the blade to the shape of the sections. I did not use any stripper as I did not want anything upsetting the stains & polish that I used thereafter. I would imagine a hacksaw blade, suitably ground on a bench grinder, might do the same thing, although I have not tried it.The scraper is held in 2 hands & bent slightly with the thumbs & pushed along the surface. The varnish should just peel off. Sharpen the scraper, or blade, with a file to put a burr on one edge.
It did not take that long once I got the rhythm going. About 5 hours for a 6ft * 3 ft table including the first rough sanding. The legs feet & braces were turned & moulded so were the hardest. The trick is to keep the blades sharp.

Last week I stripped the polyurethane varnish from the engine casing of my launch & I did this using a heat gun purchased from Wickes (£22-00) and a tungsten scraper. This was extremely simple & far quicker than bothering with paint strippers. Cheaper as well

For the tables I applied 3 coats of Rustins Mahogany stain ( rag applied) topped with a coat of shellac to kill the silicons from the old polishes. Silicon causes " fish eye" which is the tiny bubbles that form in the finish. It can come from anything, even WD40 in the atmosphere. I then applied 2 coats of Sadolins PV67 by roller. This gives a really hard finish to tables (it is a floor finish) & worth considering.
 
Last edited:
I recently removed the paint from an old painted walnut cabinet (complete with Formica top) after using nitromors and scraping, I found the quickest and most effective means was my palm sander except for the intricate detail bits.
 
Top