Outdrives - major work

[Greg2]

Don’t want to open the perennial outdrive v shaft debate here - well versed with both and would prefer shafts but on the boat size/type legs are all that are available.

Question is how many hours are the Volvo Penta 290 DP good for before they require more major work other than bellows and oil change? I have heard that clutch cones need doing around 1000 hours. What sort of hours before they need a more significant re-build i.e. shafts, seals etc?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

 

[petem]

Don’t want to open the perennial outdrive v shaft debate here - well versed with both and would prefer shafts but on the boat size/type legs are all that are available.

Question is how many hours are the Volvo Penta 290 DP good for before they require more major work other than bellows and oil change? I have heard that clutch cones need doing around 1000 hours. What sort of hours before they need a more significant re-build i.e. shafts, seals etc?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Seals need to be done at the same time as bellows. The problem with the shafts is that the seals wear a groove in them. It is possible to have them repaired by welding the groove them machining them smooth again (otherwise it's big ££££). Mine had this done at c. 800 hours.

There's an amusing video on youtube showing how the clutch cones are accessed....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwaL7Pm-5Fg

Pete

 

[simonfraser]

Seals need to be done at the same time as bellows. The problem with the shafts is that the seals wear a groove in them.

eh ?

 

[BruceK]

eh ?

££££££££££££££ plus plenty

 

[petem]

eh ?

Apologies. I could very well be mistaken! Would appear that the seals last longer than two years but I believe that the drives should be pressure tested each year and if issues then the seals are the most likely candidates.

 

[BruceK]

Apologies. I could very well be mistaken! Would appear that the seals last longer than two years but I believe that the drives should be pressure tested each year and if issues then the seals are the most likely candidates.

Correct according to my dealer. If the seals leak, your shafts take the first beating and this particular drive pictured above came to 6k to rectify. Not something you want to experience when taking a shortcut by not having a yearly pressure test for under £200 a drive

 

[simonfraser]

if it's under water for 9+ months a lot can go wrong without anyone noticing.

when the boat is trailer bound it's easier to see small weeps / fishing line etc.
and of course no barnies on the OD at all wearing it out asap.

not disagreeing with the dealer advise, i have never heard of a yearly pressure test b4.

just had my bellows done by a Volvo dealer, asked him what else he suggested, e.g. shaft seal, said no.
the oil in the OD looks normal, no water. easy to check when the boat is on a trailer.

 

[rubberduck]

Get them regularly serviced by someone who knows what they are doing & they will be fine, my last boat was in the water for 8 years with no problems. We run a logistics business & get incredible mileage out of vehicles using this philosophy, planned maintenance, not reactive.

 

[petem]

if it's under water for 9+ months a lot can go wrong without anyone noticing.

when the boat is trailer bound it's easier to see small weeps / fishing line etc.
and of course no barnies on the OD at all wearing it out asap.

not disagreeing with the dealer advise, i have never heard of a yearly pressure test b4.

just had my bellows done by a Volvo dealer, asked him what else he suggested, e.g. shaft seal, said no.
the oil in the OD looks normal, no water. easy to check when the boat is on a trailer.

If your boat is on a trailer for most of the year and you can regularly check the oil for water then I think your servicing regime (e.g. pressure testing) can be different. My boat is in the water for 12 months of the year so I need to know that the shafts and seals will be good for the next 12 months.

 

[Bigplumbs]

This thread is quite dangerous in my view. Perhaps people should only reply if they are very sure of the information they are giving

 

[BruceK]

This thread is quite dangerous in my view. Perhaps people should only reply if they are very sure of the information they are giving

I am very sure of exactly what my dealer said and the cause and effect of the PO not following this schedule leaving me with a bill I am very familiar with as I had to pay it. Short of posting a screenshot of the bill to compliment the pictures I am not sure what further evidence is required?

 

[petem]

I am very sure of exactly what my dealer said and the cause and effect of the PO not following this schedule leaving me with a bill I am very familiar with as I had to pay it. Short of posting a screenshot of the bill to compliment the pictures I am not sure what further evidence is required?

Bruce, I suspect Bigplumbs was having a pop at me for possibly incorrectly advising that seals should be replaced with bellows. If I was wrong, it was hardly a dangerous mistake and despite that I hope that some people might have learnt that shafts can be repaired (which is a fact as I had them repaired on my own boat) and that they can go as early as 800 hours (another fact).

Incidentally Bruce, the quote that I've had for my minor annual drive service (excluding parts) is €211 + VAT and that included pressure testing. So your £200 a side just for pressure testing does seem expensive. The servicing company that I use in Spain are highly regarded and recommend a pressure test every year.

 

[Bigplumbs]

My point is that so often on these threads people dive in with advice when they don't always know what they are talking about. Could cost someone significantly

 

[AdeOlly]

I have the drive oil changed every year and a pressure test is done by default. Doesn't add much to the overall cost and a pressure drop on test will enable preventative action before there is more serious leak and subsequent damage.

As to overall drive life, the manual for the DP-D drives on prior boat stated that a rebuild was needed at 1000hrs. That statement does not exist in my DP-G manual. As to the seals wearing the shafts, I've heard this saidf before but not sure if it affects all DP drives.

 

[BruceK]

Incidentally Bruce, the quote that I've had for my minor annual drive service (excluding parts) is €211 + VAT and that included pressure testing. So your £200 a side just for pressure testing does seem expensive. The servicing company that I use in Spain are highly regarded and recommend a pressure test every year.

That is correct again. The £200 is to take the drive in and have it pressure tested and oil / bellows etc change. My point was that getting it done for 200 by a dealer instead of doing oil and bellows yourself is not actually a money saver. My 200 was for you to remove the outdrive and reinstall though. These are dealer prices and tbh anything from them for 200 has got to be considered cheap.

 

[simonfraser]

I have the drive oil changed every year and a pressure test is done by default. Doesn't add much to the overall cost and a pressure drop on test will enable preventative action before there is more serious leak and subsequent damage.

As to overall drive life, the manual for the DP-D drives on prior boat stated that a rebuild was needed at 1000hrs. That statement does not exist in my DP-G manual. As to the seals wearing the shafts, I've heard this saidf before but not sure if it affects all DP drives.

the shaft wear is more likely due to cr@p / rope on the shaft than the rubber seal itself ?

 

[BruceK]

the shaft wear is more likely due to cr@p / rope on the shaft than the rubber seal itself ?

no, you will be surprised but un-lubricated rubber on a shaft oil seal will rapidly wear away the most hardened of steel. Those of us who love working on old classic cars will be familiar with crank shaft end seals doing exactly this.

 

[kashurst]

My point is that so often on these threads people dive in with advice when they don't always know what they are talking about. Could cost someone significantly

In principle I completely agree with you, however I have found that there are boat mechanics out there who are not always up to the job, poorly trained people who go in heavy handed and bugger things up, make poor diagnosis and take advantage of the inexperienced. Over 17 years or so, I have found that on the whole, this forum is very knowledgeable, and its collective membership very helpful. If someone has posted something that's way off, generally someone more knowledgeable will come along and point out the misunderstanding. It's not perfect so its wise to be cautious, and if people are still not sure, they can always phone the main Volvo/Cat dealer etc.

My own experience is that this forum has saved me a very great deal of money and been very educational.

by the way why does it matter how the props are "aligned" on an outdrive? they spin at the same speed in opposite directions what difference does it make where they start from?

 

[Greg2]

Thanks for the response so far, some helpful stuff. My recollection was that a re-build should be done around 1000hrs and I was aware of the 'fix' for worn shafts with welding or chroming. Can you advise what sort of money that is Pete?
£6k sounds a bit steep even at VP prices BuceK?

 

[simonfraser]

'un-lubricated rubber on a shaft oil seal will rapidly wear away the most hardened of steel'

wow, good to know.