OIL or VARNISH

[cherod]

My 2p.

I used to use varnish, it tended to last up to 5 years and by the end was pretty tatty, even if you touched it in occasionally. A pain to apply but looked exceptionally good.

After that I used Sikkins Novatech (etc) which also lasted around 5 years before removal but was easier to keep up and looked ok for longer. An exceptionally easy product to apply, to overcoat and to touch in. Any initial gloss is soon lost but it generally looks ok. Does not put up with hard wear.

Last year I applied Woodskin alongside Sikkins Cetol HLs+, as a comparative test and found they survived just about the same, as far as I could tell. Most of the Sikkins products can be got for about the same price as Woodskin but you generally get a much bigger tin. The cheaper commercial finish comes in a range of shades.

Danish Oil can be made to work outdoors, on teak and the matt finish is superb, masking none of the beauty of the timber . However you probably need a crew to refresh it every week or the silver threads begin to come through. It only works with clean golden wood.

.

t y .

 

[Stemar]

It depends where it's going. Anywhere it's going to get dinged, I'd use oil of some sort and accept it'll look less than perfect, but be easy to touch up.

Elsewhere, I'm a fan of le Tonkinois, In my experience, it's as resistant to UV as any varnish I've used and gives a glossy, non-slip surface that doesn't lift like ordinary varnish if water gets under it. It's also hard wearing - I had it on the stairs in my last house and I was putting off redoing it when we moved, maybe 10 years later. It does need careful application, though; it isn't just slap on a couple of coats and forget it.

 

[steve yates]

i think i will need to be more diligent in re coating it more often , try to keep it looking decent . ( masking it all off takes more time and is considerably more hassle than applying the oil !! )

I just did my toe rails yesterday, no need for masking. On the occasions I wasn't quite as careful as I should be it wiped off the grp easily.

 

[Rappey]

i believe it is some sort of mahogany

Iroko is often considered a cheaper alternative to teak, although it's more of a dark mahogany colour. Post a pic and maybe it can be identified?
Heard it said many times that international woodskin is actually sikkens and since Akzo Nobel own both it could make sense.
For old wood that has hairline cracks woodskin is really good at filling them and stopping the water getting in and lifting the surface coating. Elsewhere for no apparent reason woodskin seems to suffer the same fate as varnish .
Many years down the road in a non marine environment sapele with many coats of woodskin has developed the dreded black mould dots in the wood ?
Woodskin is very quick and easy to use though.
Many of the coatings mentioned in this thread are certainly the better ones.
Unlike 2 pack paints which can last a very long time woodcoatings seem barely able to make it over a year without continuous over coating when outside ?
Fake wood is sounding more appealing ?

 

[Arcady]

Elsewhere, I'm a fan of le Tonkinois, In my experience, it's as resistant to UV as any varnish I've used

I wish my experience had been the same. I found Le Tonk degraded quickly under UV exposure even in temperate UK conditions.

Success seems to depend hugely on a myriad of factors. What works well for some is hopeless for others, and vice versa. I suspect the one consistent message is don’t skimp on the preparation + get a decent thickness of whatever it is on.

 

[Ohlin Karcher]

You might want to read my thread in the Old/wood boat section, about Cetol Filter 7.

 

[PetiteFleur]

I've used International polyurethane varnish for the handrails but I always fit canvas covers when not o board, so far have lasted 13 yrs with one minor touch up. New gunwhales on my dinghy this year I've used Woodskin which I'm impressed with - not so glossy but still looks good and easy to apply.

 

[cherod]

I just did my toe rails yesterday, no need for masking. On the occasions I wasn't quite as careful as I should be it wiped off the grp easily.

toe rails yes, multi slatts not so easy

 

[cherod]

I wish my experience had been the same. I found Le Tonk degraded quickly under UV exposure even in temperate UK conditions.

Success seems to depend hugely on a myriad of factors. What works well for some is hopeless for others, and vice versa. I suspect the one consistent message is don’t skimp on the preparation + get a decent thickness of whatever it is on.

well bare wood and 6 coats , i am hoping for some longevity . ,, we shall see .

 

[Arcady]

well bare wood and 6 coats , i am hoping for some longevity . ,, we shall see .

I hope you get it. For me, bare wood and seven coats crazed under sunlight in about 18 months. On the other hand I found eight coats of Woodskin on bare wood lasted about 5 years.

Having said that, I loved using LeTonk. It goes on beautifully and smells wonderful!

 

[Gixer]

From recommendations on this thread I want to get some Boracol.
Very few places in the UK seem to sell it and only in 5L containers, My yacht only has a small amount of Teak and 5L will outlast me
Any ideas on where I can get small quantities or something similar in 1L?
Thanks

 

[cherod]

could my problem be using Teak Oil on non teak wood ??

 

[cherod]

Teak oil is filthy stuff, it just attracts dirt and does nothing for the wood. Varnish is similarly unpleasant. The easiest solution is to let the teak weather gracefully to grey, and just treat it a couple of times a year with Boracol.

3 days it has been on now ( under cover ) and still not properly dry , storms and rain coming in tonite i hope the covers dont get ripped off !!

 

[[159032]]

Danish Oil can be made to work outdoors, on teak and the matt finish is superb, masking none of the beauty of the timber . However you probably need a crew to refresh it every week or the silver threads begin to come through. It only works with clean golden wood.

The fab thing with Danish Oil is that it is really easy to apply and if you like the effect you varnish over it. It is promoted as a primer.
I use International Schooner varnish.
Needs a few coats but looks great.

 

[KREW2]

My 30 year old teak has been left to weather, and is in good nick.
The weathered look is consistent, and apart from a little cleaning is easy to maintain.