Old Harry
Well-Known Member
this "new" dipstick, you are using, was this from a 4108 low line engine .
the low line has a shallower sump
the low line has a shallower sump
Oil in cylinders, any quick suggestions!!
- Thread starter pcatterall
- Start date
maby
Well-Known Member
I was just about to point that out! A run-away diesel can be a scary thing - and difficult to stop - there's no ignition to kill. If you do decide to try starting it, make sure you know where the emergency decompressor is and that it is working!
Old Harry
Well-Known Member
I think you may find the 4108 doesnt have one
maby
Well-Known Member
Hmmm, in that case, the OP needs a good strategy for stopping it if it refuses to die when the fuel supply is cut off!
solent clown
RIP
stuffing a few small bits of rag down the manifold usually does the trick, even if they dont block air they end up tangled around the valves thus holding them open. Buggar of a job to get it all back out though!
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
A big block of wood that can be held over the air inlet to starve he engine of air.
Rags will be sucked in and what ever you do don't use your hand.
solent clown
RIP
yes a good point about rags to the un initiated, needs to be smaller bits you just drop in, dont hold onto a big rag.. In reality a cold engine with a bit of oil in the bores is extremely unlikely to run away, even if it burned the oil in the combustion chamber. Worst for runaways are turbo seals where the oil coming in is a more atomised and volatile mix
pandos
Well-Known Member
A co2 fire extingusher will also work... (so I understand, I did once stop a runaway with piece of wood over the intake, it was on a run away dumper that the driver had been driving at full speed up and down a site waiting for help,
something had gone wrong with the idle control....
something had gone wrong with the idle control....
pcatterall
Well-Known Member
Thanks all run away engines well understood and will have wood handy and the cap/filter off!
I inherited 2 engines both with standard sumps and the same length dip sticks.
I inherited 2 engines both with standard sumps and the same length dip sticks.
huldah
Well-Known Member
When filling my 4108 I turned round to grab the oil can, turned back round and topped up the inlet manifold! It took a full day to slowly turn the engine by hand to force the oil past the piston rings. At least your cylinders are open.
pcatterall
Well-Known Member
Thanks
Good to know that there are others who can have senior moments! The down side is that with the injectors out there is no pressure to force the oil down past the rings! Idea...!! if I put the injectors in one at a time perhaps I could more easily force the oil down one cylinder at a time?
anoccasionalyachtsman
Well-Known Member
I'd just spin it on the starter with paper everywhere to catch it as it comes out of the injector and exhaust ports, then maybe a rinse with a squirt or two of diesel before another brief spin.
Old Harry
Well-Known Member
if the oil goes back via the piston rings, you must have serious bore wear & loss of compression.
RichardS
N/A
Indeed .... and why would you try to force the oil past the piston rings when you can just spin/suck it out through the injector ports?
Richard
Old Harry
Well-Known Member
Indeed .... and why would you try to force the oil past the piston rings when you can just spin/suck it out through the injector ports?
Richard
there are some very strange question from a person who is rebuilding an engine & one would expect to have at least,some basic engineering knowledge
solent clown
RIP
safer and quicker to do it through the hole, either with rag, kitchen roll into a splint, or a syringe with a bit of rubber tube. After spinning it on the motor to get the majority of it out.
pcatterall
Well-Known Member
There's always one!! The forcing down one at a time was a gentle response to the suggestion that someone turned the engine over by hand to do just that.
Many thanks.
edit;- other advice very useful except I will avoid pushing kitchen roll down the holes
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solent clown
RIP
kitchen roll works well if you splil it. that means twisting it to form a thin long spike. You then put it in the bore via the plug or injector hole and capilliary action wicks the oil out It is a long time accepted method when you do not have a syringe. You dont just shove kitchen roll down the holes. Apologies if you did not understand the actual process.
pcatterall
Well-Known Member
Appreciate that kitchen roll may be better at 'wicking' than textile. My concern would be bits dropping off.
VicS
Well-Known Member
Oil won't make it go soggy like water will
Take note tomorrow morning when you wipe out the frying pan with some after cooking breakfast. It will behave similarly with engine oil.
