Off Sailing (er um Motoring) Again (Long)

MainlySteam

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Many, er well a couple /forums/images/icons/smile.gif, of forumites have suggested I write a bit about our return voyage between Wellington and Nelson to give some more impressions of sailing in this part of the world. So here it is. Charts are free for downloading at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.hydro.linz.govt.nz/charts/catalogue/index.asp>http://www.hydro.linz.govt.nz/charts/catalogue/index.asp</A>, relevant small scale ones are NZ46 and NZ61 if one wants to follow the route. Direct distance to Nelson is around 125 nm so is only around 300 nm return by the time add distance into refuges and avoiding areas of heavy seas, but was tiresome going. Was a trip to meet a schedule so ended up with alot of motoring due to the conditions.

Kaniva gets lifted only 2 yearly for underwater inspection, antifouling and any other odd jobs best done by the yard - we return to the yard in Nelson who built her for this. The plan with the yard was that we be on their dock by first thing Tuesday following Easter weekend, rafted outside another bigger Wellington boat scheduled to be there before us, so we could be lifted early morning - all underwater painting to be completed by Friday to be back in water and other work completed Saturday for us to depart Sunday the weekend after Easter to get back to Wellington to meet business commitments.

Wife, Ship's Cat and I set off Saturday of Easter weekend with a very strong SW flow over the whole country - bad news as that sets up direct head winds along the coast all the way to Nelson. Across the bottom of North Island the wind was 30-35 knots gusting higher but dropping to less than 20 knots in many places due to the influence of the high land. Although a holiday weekend, no other boats around at all. Had 2-3 metres of very steep "chop" (our pulpit is 2m above WL so when our bow overhangs a trough and waves are higher they are starting to get big) so proceeded with just a small foresail on the inner forestay with motor running to maintain progress through the seas whenever the wind dropped. We planned to go through Cook Strait with the tide and had timed our departure to be at the rip areas at around slack tide - but the tide had started running North much earlier than the predictions (not unusual) and the rips were getting steep even though the wind was with the tide (a look at the Cook Strait chart will show that there are big bottom influences). Went onto foredeck to drop the small foresail so that we could motor out directly into the wind to get around the worst of it and so would not have to handle sails in the turbulence of the rip, and a big gust was strong enough to peel my beanie off my head to be lost, was a nice merino and opossum wool one to make up for the thinning of my own wool. As we got out into the open Strait had same wave height but at the normal distance apart so much easier going.

From bottom of North Island until close to Nelson had 25 - 35 knot wind right in our faces and motored it all in order to keep to our schedule - tides, islands and tidal gates make getting to windward very time consuming otherwise. Track was between Awash Rocks and The Brothers, along top of South Island across Queen Charlotte Sound entance and around Cape Jackson. Saturday night we overnighted behind Alligator Head in Guards Bay outside Pelorous Sound as I am the only one capable of keeping a watch under the conditions.

Set off Sunday morning again 25-35 knots in our faces to try to get to French Pass (between D'Urville Is and South Is) while the tide still ran our way through it. Off entrance to Pelorous Sound the sea ahead was white with occasional squalls lifting spray high into the air. We passed the bigger boat that was supposed to get to the yard before us as we proceeded into it. Kaniva is fine foreward and we keep alot of weight in the bow to reduce pitching in steep seas so she handles these conditions well. We proceeded directly into 30-35 knots, with higher gusts, making about 3-5 knots steering through the waves to avoid losing way in them, at twice the progress of the other vessel and with Ship's Cat lying in a corner of the cockpit sheltered by the hard dodger with his paws hard over his eyes, and me, face caked in salt, at the wheel.

Got to French Pass in time to have the flow still with us - the pass is 100m wide and while current is only around 6 -7 knots it is full of big whirlpools from edge and bottom effects and steep standing waves in bad conditions. We gave our mandatory "All Ships" radio call 10 mins before entering (large coastal vessels use the pass if the flow is favourable and visibility of approaching vessels is limited) and proceeded through against 30 knot winds. The tide got us, point of no return, and oh my goodness aren't those waves big today /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif. Full power to keep directional control as we lost all speed through the water with the boat at alarming angles, bow burying deeply (1.4 m freeboard at bow) so solid water sweeping us as the bow rose high up the next wave, then a crashing fall into the next trough with Ship's Cat in a panic and yowling (first time ever) as the tide swept us through. Real hard plug from there for us with N swell coming into Tasman Bay and seas crossing that from the wind, but for 2 around 60 foot USA aluminium boats in company coming the other way under reefed sails they were steaming along nicely with wind and seas behind. Knew at that stage that our schedule was safe and so to give the other boat time to get ahead of us we overnighted in Croiselles Harbour anchored about 25nm from Nelson.

Set off late Monday morning arriving at yard's dock mid afternoon to have it to ourselves. Got all the forepeak cleared out for some work in there and 7:30 Tuesday morning Yard Manager seemed very pleased to see us on time having stuck it out - the other boat had decided to shelter and arrived a day later. In return we were back in the water Friday, as per the plan, and in between times we moteled,caught up with sailing friends, shopped, with Ship's Cat sent off to the local cattery (much to his disgust). Very interesting chat with 60 year old friend, who is ships' master home on leave, about avoiding getting run down. He also sails small to very large sailing vessels so knows both ship and sailboat perspectives.

Voyage home was pretty mundane, setting off on Sunday the weekend after Easter, for the most part no wind at all and anchored behind Alligator Head again - had promised ourselves a day off with a little fishing on way back if all had gone to plan and so spent all Monday based there. Back to Wellington on Tuesday with dead calm and some fog (unusual here) to start with. As we entered Cook Strait proper at The Brothers got a nice 25+ knot wind to near Wellington entrance - all sail up at hull speed on a flat run and tide getting us up to maintained 10 - 11 knots over ground with autopilot doing all the work - the only bit of reasonable sailing we got.

All the motoring got me in the mood for next week to Oz for sea trials of a 76 foot power boat - 4 engines with 4 waterjet drives and nice cosy wheelhouse.

John

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david_bagshaw

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Sounds lovely, god how we get ripped off in the UK

We the taxpayer pay for surveys , then get charged for the chart.

Have just downloaded the charts you mentioned, FOC, here that would be £35-50 for the paper by the time it arrived on the desk!

If we want digital again we PAY through the nose, others will fill you in of the cost.

Yet I note at the bottom CROWN copyright, so how do you get charts for free yet we have to pay?

French pass sounds challanging at the least!!!

Fair winds

<hr width=100% size=1>David
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boatless

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Very good!

I can actually feel that salt encrusted lips thing that last for hours after a shower and several Gin and Tonics.

Also the true disappointment of a fellow hat lover - do I turn back for it or will I break something more expensive?

Look forward to write-ups of your non delivery trips.

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MainlySteam

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Hi David

Not sure that I translate the official line strictly correctly but basically the hydrographic information is regarded as being public property and the only charge is the cost of distribution. So, for the official set of NZ Electronic Charts (which inludes all NZ Charts, plus the large scale charts of a number of the Pacific Islands, plus all the small scale international charts of the Pacific Region (including the Northern Hemisphere from USA to Asia) the cost is currently approx NZD60 (say roughly GBP20). They are currently all raster (HCRF, the same format as UKHO ARCS) but the vector S-57 chart project is underway. Paper charts cost more because of the greater cost in holding inventory and maintaining the corrections on the inventory, but we pay approx NZD20 (say roughly GBP7) for a paper chart.

So moving to the official electronic charts has a big financial incentive here. The charts are encrypted on the distribution CD, not for the usual commercial reasons, but as protection to prevent unofficial tampering with the data - the actual permit to use the charts is free and gives access to the whole collection rather than just the groups that one has paid for to be unlocked as is the usual situation. Being HCRF they can only be used in a chart program that supports the UKHO ARCS or the Australian Seafarer charts for example.

The hi resolution downloads available off the LINZ sites work perfectly well in SeaClear, for example, but are not corrected.

Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it.

John

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MainlySteam

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Hi John

I got really caught out through Cook Strait as while it was sunny it is, of course well into autumn here. I am fair and am normally pretty careful of the sun (but still suffering from a lifetime of too much of it) but on this occasion I did not use any sunscreen. The combination of the wind, sun and the salt meant that I lost all the skin off my face and scalp over the following week - looked very much like a snake shedding (probably appropriate as many think I am a snake /forums/images/icons/frown.gif).

Came up nice after though, just like a baby's pink bum (and I have been called one of those too).

While this will be a power boat, and for reasons of client confidentiality I cannot give many details of the boat and where it is going to, I will try and do a post on the trials that I mentioned, in a couple of weeks - that will be in beautiful Tasmania. Will put it on the MoBo forum if other saily types interested.

John

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tome

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<<strong enough to peel my beanie off my head to be lost, was a nice merino and opossum wool one to make up for the thinning of my own wool>>

Not often that I post after midnight, but I did enjoy reading your account John. One of these days, we're going to have to introduce you to the Solent and channel. I think you'll find it tame but enjoyable. If you're coming over, please let us know.

Beanie is a new one to me. I'm reminded of a chief I sailed with who wore a hairpiece ashore, but parked it on a polystyrene head under way. At the first port call after 6 weeks he would don his beanie, which we referred to as his ferret. During the transition (either way), he was unrecognisable to all and was frequently challenged by security.

Great account John, thanks. Time methinks for you to post a portrait, with or without the beanie!

Tom



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MainlySteam

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Whoops, a bit of colloquialism may have slipped in - "beanie" here and nearabout countries is one of those "tea cosy" looking woolen hats.

Would certainly enjoy a visit to the Solent - while I have been to Europe many times, I have, unfortunately only passed through England en-route. Something I will have to put to rights sometime.

John

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BrianJ

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John
Great story .. thanks... why however did you sail between quote, "Track was between Awash Rocks and The Brothers".. think I have asked you this before , but cannot remember the answer. When I opened my charts I reckon I would have stayed " outside " both.
Last night on one of our TV stations ,there was a 30 minute program the NZ Govt. Tourist Bureau ,would have paid millions to be kept from showing ( it was in prime time) .. It was devoted to NZ and the many problems .. ie earthquakes,fault lines,Cook Strait ( yes they showed the Wahini).. and a few more items that would certainly influence people from visiting the lovely place...
I am sure that was not the intention , however it did present a scary scene ( tink it was paid for buy THe OZ Tourist Commission .. no seriusly I have lived in NZ ,visitedmany times and love the place.
However back to the story...well done.
BrianJ

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MainlySteam

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Hi Brian

Awash Rocks and The Brothers.

While conditions on the day come into it, and probably habit as well, in the end this is the shortest route for either into Queen Charlotte Sound around Cape Koamaru, or for continuing on to the NW to round Cape Jackson. This becomes more and more so the further off one clears the southern coast of North Island if, for example, one has to clear the rips or get out of the stronger tide close inshore if sailing against the tide. If one lays a line from there to either Cape Koamaru or to Cape Jackson then it passes between Awash Rocks and The Brothers. While we occasionally do so, it is quite a bit longer going to the North of The Brothers unless conditions are such that it is best to round Cape Jackson outside of Walker's Rock but at Cape Jackson it is normally safe for small vessels to pass between the end of the cape and the first rock out that has the outer light on it - it is not clear on the chart that there is plenty of depth (shallowest I have found is 12m) right from almost hard up against the Cape right to almost hard up against the rock with the light on it.

A problem in yachts going through Cook Strait is that unless one is fast it is difficult to get right through on one tide so at some time one ends up against the tide, which in turn means that one also faces wind against the tide at at least one end - and rips are likely at either end, and are shown on the chart both around the bottom on North Island and around The Brothers. Doesn't mean they are going to be there and many times they are not even in cases of strong winds gainst the tide (haven't a clue why).

In my story case, when we got to Cape Jackson we took the path close in to the Cape (between the lights) but had a very slow time getting past the Cape due to the combination of wind, tide and chops against us. So it may have been quicker for us to have taken the course outside of The Brothers and outside of Walker's Rock but the outer route adds at least 3-4 nm, if not more so one has to do quite a bit better on it for it to be the best bet.

You may be aware but the inner passage around Cape Jackson between the Cape and the lit rock is where the Russian cruise ship 'Mikhail Lermontov" struck and was lost when the pilot foolishly tried to take her through the passage in 1986 - story with pictures is at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nzmaritime.co.nz/lermontov.htm>http://www.nzmaritime.co.nz/lermontov.htm</A> - and she struck one of the shallower rocks. Her wreck is shown on the chart well into Port Gore where she drifted before sinking with no loss of life. One of the reasons the rescue was so effective was the fact that the LPG carrier Tarihiko was close at hand and actually ignored the ship's first advice that it did not need assistance and steamed to her and stood by.

A coincidence here. Firstly, back in the early 1980's (young lad then of course /forums/images/icons/smile.gif) I project managed the development of a big bulk LPG distribution system of which the build of Tarihiko was part of. And secondly, at the time of the accident I was working in my office at home and by chance had an ssb on beside me monitoring one of the safety frequencies (4125 I think) and heard the whole thing from the "Whoops, we have hit the rocks", through the "Help, we are sinking" bit, to Tarihiko arriving in Wellington with her shipload of casualties (she was carrying gas as well and, of course, had to ask permission to both enter the harbour and to berth at a non dangerous goods berth - both of which were naturally granted) - other smaller vessels also rescued casualties.

So, hope I have not bored you - a long story out of a simple question.

John

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BlueSkyNick

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Its OK John, A Beannie is a hat in the UK too, or at least it is in our household. However, that could have come from SWMBO's side of the family which, being Bermudian, has a certain amount of American influence.

Great Story - Hope you can make it over here sometime.

<hr width=100% size=1>I'm average size, Its just that everybody else is short.
 
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