Non-slip decks

[roger2009]

I need to re-do my non -slip decks and have been looking at all options, I am not happy with paint and grit added since it appears to be thin and of an uneven finish.I have been told that Sandtex is as good as anything and provides a better textured surface, has anyone used this and what has been the conclusion on the results, advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Tranona]

Welcome to the forum. Many people use Sandtex or similar - regular subject on these fora - because it is cheap in terms of the volume that you get for your money and you can get it mixed to your colour.

However International do a perfectly satisfactory non slip paint (Interdeck) that does not need mixing. Although more expensive per litre the actual amount you need even for a large boat is so relatively small it is hardly worth not using the proper stuff.

No connection with International and other marine paint specialists have similar products.

 

[xtiffer]

I'm not normally a great fan of International products but I do agree Interdeck is the only way to go.
Cheers,
Chris

 

[bigwow]

No problems using textured Sandtex for decks, I've been using it for 10yrs. Can't see the point of paying inflated international prices when you don't have too.

 

[dt4134]

If you want to do a good job the cost of Interdeck Vs Sandtex is not going to be that significant.

For a start you've got to thoroughly prepare the surface. That means hard scrubbing with a scrubbing brush (as you would a kitchen floor) not just a hose down & clean with a deck brush. Followed by using something like white spirits to de-grease it. If necessary alternating between the two several times. You may have to sand the surface, either to get rid of old paint or prepare a keyed surface.

Then you need to neatly mask off the areas you want to paint. I found this by far the most time consuming part. Don't even think of using ordinary white masking tape. My experience is that even the blue so-called 14 day masking tape shouldn't be left on the deck more than 24 hours, especially if it is likely to get wet.

Then you need a brush that won't moult hairs as you paint.

So after all that you might as well use Interdeck.

You can also get the Interdeck additive to add to your own paint.

 

[sarabande]

Dulux Weathershield Textured.

5 years in the blazing sunshine of Plymouth and ports west, and it's only now needing renewal - I could get away with a touchup.

Load of colours, too, not just about five. Excellent grip; and doesn't get affected by seagull cr*p. It doesn't make sense to use anything else !

 

[Daniel Cawston]

Hello Roger2009,

i have used decking strips for my Bavaria, don't think they were made originally for yachts. but gave them ago off the recommendation off a friend and they have worked a treat. i got it from a company called Dino Grip

 

[Cockaigne]

Hello Roger2009,

i have used decking strips for my Bavaria, don't think they were made originally for yachts. but gave them ago off the recommendation off a friend and they have worked a treat. i got it from a company called Dino Grip

How did you fix them to the deck?

 

[RichardS]

Hello Roger2009,

i have used decking strips for my Bavaria, don't think they were made originally for yachts. but gave them ago off the recommendation off a friend and they have worked a treat. i got it from a company called Dino Grip

Welcome to YBW, Daniel .... although I suspect that Roger has either done his decks by now or slipped off into the briny, never to be seen again .... probably the latter judging by the date of his 5 posts.

Richard

 

[Sooty Dog]

Hi,
As my "teak" deck is deteriorating rapidly and I dont have the cash to replace it either with new panels or a synthetic teak decking material, does anyone have any experience of covering the original teak with a non slip material (preferably a sheet material). Something inexpensive that could be replaced when needed would be perfect.

 

[Tranona]

Welcome to the forum.

Don't think covering up is a good idea. The only two realistic courses of action are stripping it off and then replacing with teak or a substitute (both high cost) or if the deck is sound, filling fairing and painting. Some decks may benefit from a skim of glass cloth and epoxy first.

What you actually do will depend in part on the specific method of construction as not all teak decks are the same.

 

[BrianH]

Welcome to the forum.

Don't think covering up is a good idea. The only two realistic courses of action are stripping it off and then replacing with teak or a substitute (both high cost) or if the deck is sound, filling fairing and painting. Some decks may benefit from a skim of glass cloth and epoxy first.

What you actually do will depend in part on the specific method of construction as not all teak decks are the same.

+1 to the part in bold.
After many years of dithering and threatening to do this while spending half my life afloat on my hands and knees renewing teak plugs and caulking, I am now in discussion with a trusted local who will do this work later in the season - at 83 I'm a bit creaky now and my knees have suffered enough with all the past work on the now 37-year-old wooden deck.

The final comment of Tranona is critical. Fortunately my HR GRP deck under the 10mm teak is foam core and substantial. I know the surface is smooth and the planks are easily lifted when the screws are removed from a few that I have renewed. The major work will be filling ca. 900 screw holes, sanding down, removing/replacing the deck hardware and scupper drains that will need re-seating on the GRP deck level.

The planned paint-job will be KiwiGrip, which I witnessed being applied by an acquaintance in the marina here and which gave an excellent non-slip finish.

.