No Power Volvo Penta KAD 300

frenzy

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24 Apr 2008
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Hi All,

I have twin Volvos Penta KAD 300 engines. just went to start my engines this morning. Port started fine, but there is no power to the starboard side. All the dials are not working. I have checked the maim fuse on the engine and they seem fine.When I turn on the starboard key the only thing that comes on is the trim indicator for the outdrive. After a few seconds that then goes off and it trips the black button on top of the engine.

any suggestions please.
 
what boat is it? Some boats have switches to disable the engines in daft places - you/someone could have accidentally switched the starboard engine off.
 
Check the neutral microswitch on the throttle/ gear lever is not acting up. Though that would not account for the trim popping the engine fuse. I thought that had it's own fuse.


edit. On my earlier KADs that was a problem once. Ignition is disabled if in gear. A few rapid gear shift would loosen it up but the microswitch ultimately needed replacing
 
Just tried that. There seems to be no power to the ignition at all. The fuse in the engine does not blow. It’s the small button on the box that sits on the engines. I can reset it by pushing it.
 
My KADS are the early simple type with no electrotrickery. I still suggest the first point of call is the attempted starting in gear or high throttle scenario. I have heard on the forum but have no personal experience that the throttles need or can be calibrated??? Hopefully somebody can clarify and point you to the procedure if you dont know it.

Edit: and w.r.t. to the control box thermofuse popping out. Yes, if I switch on my ignition and try starting in gear that fuse will pop out.
 
Check out the DC-DC converter in the black box above the alternator with the relays in it. With the ignition turned on you should get +12v ish on the input AND the output red/stripe wires.
If nothing is coming out or its a very low voltage it could be knackered (they can fail :-( ). If thats the case label up the wires and swap it over to the other engines and see which one will start to verify the problem. You can't do it wrong because of the connector arrangements.
Also check the 4 relays - again swap them one by one to the other engine. Testing each time.
If you need wiring diagrams etc send me a PM with an email address and I will send the to you.
Not sure why the trim pump is tripping the breaker - might be something to do with the engine ECU not responding. Can you temporariliy disconnect it while testing the engine - actually if it trips don't reset it.

If the above doesnt help - check out the ignition key - they are very easy to swap - subject to access at the back. Again they do break internally -all 4 of mine went one by one.
 
check the red wire in black box , should have power both sides the pop fuse . If you have power check the red at ignition switch, turn on and check red/blue at switch and inside black box at dc dc convector .

check the 16 pin plug that goes into black box
 
Went to the boat today to see could I find the problem. Starting testing the voltage as suggested and noticed that the voltage was very low. Swapped the start booster and it worked. So problem solved. Next one now is to pay out the exorbitant price that they are asking. waiting for the local supplier to give me a price.

Thanks to all who replied as you have been a great help.
 
Just received the new unit which is completely different than the old one as the later is obsolete. With regards to the diodes that are supplied with the unit, are these connected to the battery in, or the outputs. I’m presuming the output but just want to make sure.
I’m supplying a photo for people if they have the same problem.
 

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Ok. Just fitted new unit. All lights and starting fine. The only issue now is that I when I turn the engine off I have to hold the ignition key to the left fully until I hear a click in the engine bay so that the lights go off . The other engine you just stop the engine and the lights go out. I have just attached a photo of the wiring is this normal for the new unit .C0B79A10-35F2-42D5-8045-F3DF158E4271.jpeg
 
Just received the new unit which is completely different than the old one as the later is obsolete. With regards to the diodes that are supplied with the unit, are these connected to the battery in, or the outputs. I’m presuming the output but just want to make sure.
I’m supplying a photo for people if they have the same problem.
Which one is the new part?
 
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