ontheplane
Well-Known Member
Engine
I see all the posts here for 9.9-15 / 20 / 25 hp engines but I think a bit of "offshore" mentality has kicked in here.
We haven't asked you what your use will be.
If you intend to cruise in harbours, inshore and / or a little bit coastal I would completely agree a 20hp would be good - however if you are thinking of keeping it inland on the rivers etc then you don't need anything LIKE that big. Remember that unless you have enough power to get "over the hump" then no engine will push you significantly above hull speed so unless the OP fits a 90+HP motor - there is a limit to how fast it will go.
Back "when I were a lad" we had a Buckingham 20 (was 21' loa) and we had a 6hp Perkins outboard on it (no-one remembers them!) Eventually my Mum gave Dad the ultimatum that whilst he loved tinkering with engines, she was NOT towing the boat back to the mooring by hand any more - and the engine was replaced or the boat went.
Being a young kid, I was all for him bolting a 175hp on the back!
However he bought an 8hp Yamaha and it was actually a bit too powerful for the canal we were on - we had a 4knt limit and that was literally just over tickover. Even with a 100:1 oil/fuel mix, it did oil up it's plugs every so often, a 6hp would have been plenty.
Having said that, when we took the boat to the Norfolk Broads with its open lake spaces, we could go full throttle a few times - oh those heady 5knt moments......
Remember, it's only about 23ft - so I'm thinking a hull speed of 6-8knts (someone on here will correct that I am sure) and most inland rivers / canals have a 5knt limit - so well below hull speed. I actually think you only need about 8hp. I agree you need bigger if you will be exposed to lots of wind but otherwise it's utterly pointless. Remember originally 60ft barges with hundreds of tonnes of coal were moved by literally 1 horsepower (i.e. 1 actual horse) and still made 2-3knts.
A 20hp will not get the boat on the plane, so you will never be able to get more than about 1knt over hull speed - and all you are doing is adding weight, cost and fuel burn. You need the engine to be able to attach to remotes (usually 5hp and up) and have an external tank (again 5hp and up). You would also benefit from fitting a high thrust prop, as you need thrust not speed (or try and get a sailpower / saildrive / bigfoot motor in the first place).
If you can get an electric start that will usually have a charger on it, to top up your batteries as well so that's a nice feature (we didn't have that on ours and Dad had to fit a charging circuit to it.
If you can find one - a Sailpower type motor is ideal as they tend to have a high thrust prop, and a charger already on them even if they are pull start.
Also, do NOT assume you need a long shaft Boats of this type are often short shaft. Have you measured it? From the top of where the outboard sits down to the bottom of the hull. If its' somewhere in the region of 15-16" you need a short shaft and 20-21" a long (I'd be amazed if you needed an extra long.
I also don't know if I'd pay more to have power trim on this kind of boat - why do you need it? And the trim, rams and so on are all more to go wrong.
Probably the best one I can find is this one. Plenty of power unless you are going coastal / inshore, brand new, good make and a high-thrust engine - everything you need - you just need to find out if you need a long or short shaft:- Tohatsu - MFS8B L Sail - 8hp 4 stroke Tiller, Long Shaft Saildrive Outboard 0% 12month Cre in Gwynedd, Wales | Boats and Outboards
This could be a good all rounder Yamaha - 9.9HP High Thrust FT9.9AE Long Shaft 4-Stroke Outboard & Remotes in Cambridgeshire, Eastern | Boats and Outboards --- however the phrase "Runs well for age" is a worry - it either runs well or it doesn't!
Something like this would be ok if you need a long shaft and are going to stick to rivers and canals Tohatsu - JANUARY Special! 6hp Sail Pro Engine Tiller Handle, Short Shaft in Gwynedd, Wales | Boats and Outboards
This would be better if you want to go more on tidal rivers and areas with strong currents and / or winds
This looks a decent buy if you need a short shaft Yamaha - F9.9 FMHS in Devon, South West | Boats and Outboards
This looks a really good buy - a bigfoot 25hp so loads of thrust, but due to the lower pitch prop you won't be running at tickover constantly - Mercury - 25h.p. bigfoot Long shaft in Tyne & Wear, North East | Boats and Outboards - I know this goes against what I said about power above - but at this price it's fine you just won't use 90% of it's power.
Also just seen this - Mercury - 9.9HP COMMAND THRUST IN STOCK!! LONG SHAFT for NEXT DAY DELIVERY or COLLECTION in Cambridgeshire, Eastern | Boats and Outboards brand new and a decent price (I think).
Note I have only checked Boats and Outboards - more will be on eBay etc.
Lastly, we also fitted a rubber pad onto the engine mount which we attached the engine to - this massively reduced noise and vibration - we used a cut up lorry inner tube - you could call a roofer who uses EPDM roofing and ask if he has an old offcut (he will have loads) he'll probably let you have it for nothing - put a layer or two of that on your transom before you fit the engine and it will make a world of difference.
Also fit a rudder to the outboard (see the Yamaha 9.9 above - this will massively improve steerage.
Hope that's of use
I see all the posts here for 9.9-15 / 20 / 25 hp engines but I think a bit of "offshore" mentality has kicked in here.
We haven't asked you what your use will be.
If you intend to cruise in harbours, inshore and / or a little bit coastal I would completely agree a 20hp would be good - however if you are thinking of keeping it inland on the rivers etc then you don't need anything LIKE that big. Remember that unless you have enough power to get "over the hump" then no engine will push you significantly above hull speed so unless the OP fits a 90+HP motor - there is a limit to how fast it will go.
Back "when I were a lad" we had a Buckingham 20 (was 21' loa) and we had a 6hp Perkins outboard on it (no-one remembers them!) Eventually my Mum gave Dad the ultimatum that whilst he loved tinkering with engines, she was NOT towing the boat back to the mooring by hand any more - and the engine was replaced or the boat went.
Being a young kid, I was all for him bolting a 175hp on the back!
However he bought an 8hp Yamaha and it was actually a bit too powerful for the canal we were on - we had a 4knt limit and that was literally just over tickover. Even with a 100:1 oil/fuel mix, it did oil up it's plugs every so often, a 6hp would have been plenty.
Having said that, when we took the boat to the Norfolk Broads with its open lake spaces, we could go full throttle a few times - oh those heady 5knt moments......
Remember, it's only about 23ft - so I'm thinking a hull speed of 6-8knts (someone on here will correct that I am sure) and most inland rivers / canals have a 5knt limit - so well below hull speed. I actually think you only need about 8hp. I agree you need bigger if you will be exposed to lots of wind but otherwise it's utterly pointless. Remember originally 60ft barges with hundreds of tonnes of coal were moved by literally 1 horsepower (i.e. 1 actual horse) and still made 2-3knts.
A 20hp will not get the boat on the plane, so you will never be able to get more than about 1knt over hull speed - and all you are doing is adding weight, cost and fuel burn. You need the engine to be able to attach to remotes (usually 5hp and up) and have an external tank (again 5hp and up). You would also benefit from fitting a high thrust prop, as you need thrust not speed (or try and get a sailpower / saildrive / bigfoot motor in the first place).
If you can get an electric start that will usually have a charger on it, to top up your batteries as well so that's a nice feature (we didn't have that on ours and Dad had to fit a charging circuit to it.
If you can find one - a Sailpower type motor is ideal as they tend to have a high thrust prop, and a charger already on them even if they are pull start.
Also, do NOT assume you need a long shaft Boats of this type are often short shaft. Have you measured it? From the top of where the outboard sits down to the bottom of the hull. If its' somewhere in the region of 15-16" you need a short shaft and 20-21" a long (I'd be amazed if you needed an extra long.
I also don't know if I'd pay more to have power trim on this kind of boat - why do you need it? And the trim, rams and so on are all more to go wrong.
Probably the best one I can find is this one. Plenty of power unless you are going coastal / inshore, brand new, good make and a high-thrust engine - everything you need - you just need to find out if you need a long or short shaft:- Tohatsu - MFS8B L Sail - 8hp 4 stroke Tiller, Long Shaft Saildrive Outboard 0% 12month Cre in Gwynedd, Wales | Boats and Outboards
This could be a good all rounder Yamaha - 9.9HP High Thrust FT9.9AE Long Shaft 4-Stroke Outboard & Remotes in Cambridgeshire, Eastern | Boats and Outboards --- however the phrase "Runs well for age" is a worry - it either runs well or it doesn't!
Something like this would be ok if you need a long shaft and are going to stick to rivers and canals Tohatsu - JANUARY Special! 6hp Sail Pro Engine Tiller Handle, Short Shaft in Gwynedd, Wales | Boats and Outboards
This would be better if you want to go more on tidal rivers and areas with strong currents and / or winds
This looks a decent buy if you need a short shaft Yamaha - F9.9 FMHS in Devon, South West | Boats and Outboards
This looks a really good buy - a bigfoot 25hp so loads of thrust, but due to the lower pitch prop you won't be running at tickover constantly - Mercury - 25h.p. bigfoot Long shaft in Tyne & Wear, North East | Boats and Outboards - I know this goes against what I said about power above - but at this price it's fine you just won't use 90% of it's power.
Also just seen this - Mercury - 9.9HP COMMAND THRUST IN STOCK!! LONG SHAFT for NEXT DAY DELIVERY or COLLECTION in Cambridgeshire, Eastern | Boats and Outboards brand new and a decent price (I think).
Note I have only checked Boats and Outboards - more will be on eBay etc.
Lastly, we also fitted a rubber pad onto the engine mount which we attached the engine to - this massively reduced noise and vibration - we used a cut up lorry inner tube - you could call a roofer who uses EPDM roofing and ask if he has an old offcut (he will have loads) he'll probably let you have it for nothing - put a layer or two of that on your transom before you fit the engine and it will make a world of difference.
Also fit a rudder to the outboard (see the Yamaha 9.9 above - this will massively improve steerage.
Hope that's of use












