New masthead light required

pcatterall

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Before the masts go up I am considering replacing the mast head light. Currently it is an old fashioned affair using the old standard 10w bulb.
I guess I should look for an LED light ( I could consider an LED bulb in the old fitting but have a feeling ( cant check) that the old fitting was a bit suspect.
One consideration is the size of bulb; I guess that I could fit an LED giving me more ( lumens/candle power) than the old bulb and still use less power.
What are other folk doing/using?
The current lamp is on a short stalk with 3 screws to fit to the mast top so I guess a similar fitting would go on more easily.
Yacht is 10m.
Thanks for the usual good advice
 
Before the masts go up I am considering replacing the mast head light. Currently it is an old fashioned affair using the old standard 10w bulb.
I guess I should look for an LED light ( I could consider an LED bulb in the old fitting but have a feeling ( cant check) that the old fitting was a bit suspect.
One consideration is the size of bulb; I guess that I could fit an LED giving me more ( lumens/candle power) than the old bulb and still use less power.
What are other folk doing/using?
The current lamp is on a short stalk with 3 screws to fit to the mast top so I guess a similar fitting would go on more easily.
Yacht is 10m.
Thanks for the usual good advice

Do you actually mean a masthead light as defined in the colregs , ie a forward facing white light for use under power, or do you mean a tricolour for use when sailing.

When i replaced my tricolour I did so with another standard type ....... but despite being the same make the mounting was different requiring modification of the mounting bracket.

I subsequently replaced the filament bulb with an LED unit enabling me to increases the power from 10watts to the equivalent of 25watts without upgrading the wiring and in fact saving on battery power. This was a less expensive option than buying a new LED lantern. If necessary the old 10watt bulb can alwys be refitted
 
I kept my original Hella unit and bought one of these:

http://www.boatlamps.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d66.html

I can't say how well it works as I have only just fitted it. I will keep the old incandescent bulb as a back up.

I think Mr Boatlamps is a forum member but I don't know his nom de plume. If you go down the same route be sure to order the warm white for use behind coloured glass.
 
Regarding the choice of an LED unit for a filament bulb

Best, ie brightest, is separate red, green and cool white for port, starboard and stern lights.

Boatlamps say that warm white is essential if using a white LED behind red and green lenses, however it not as good as a cool white for a white light. It is therefore a little bit of a compromise in a tricolour,

The one I fitted was this one with separate red, green and white LEDs
( In practice the red and green are correctly orientated, not reversed as in the picture)
100150.jpg

avaialble from Force4 and other chandlers.

It came supplied with a replacement holder which iwas essential to align it correctly.
It was also necessary to power it up before fitting in order to identify the three sectors.
 
Regarding the choice of an LED unit for a filament bulb

Best, ie brightest, is separate red, green and cool white for port, starboard and stern lights.

Boatlamps say that warm white is essential if using a white LED behind red and green lenses, however it not as good as a cool white for a white light. It is therefore a little bit of a compromise in a tricolour,

The one I fitted was this one with separate red, green and white LEDs
( In practice the red and green are correctly orientated, not reversed as in the picture)
100150.jpg

avaialble from Force4 and other chandlers.

It came supplied with a replacement holder which iwas essential to align it correctly.
It was also necessary to power it up before fitting in order to identify the three sectors.

At last, a new design of a SMD LED version of a tri-colour lamp with red, green and cool white light output should be available soon and could be stocked by chandlers and other on-line vendors. This lamp should be considerably less expensive than the aluminium lamp Vic refers to. I have a sneek pre-production picture.

tri-colour1.jpg

The lamp has light shields positioned precisely to ensure that the correct COLREG colour cut off angles are provided. This should ensure crisp colours through the two filters and the clear lens.

I will post more information when I get it.

Regards
 
At last, a new design of a SMD LED version of a tri-colour lamp with red, green and cool white light output should be available soon
The lamp has light shields positioned precisely to ensure that the correct COLREG colour cut off angles are provided. This should ensure crisp colours through the two filters and the clear lens.

I will post more information when I get it.

Regards

That looks interesting but with all the LEDs in each section mounted on a flat base as it were won't the three sectors tend to be rather too directional. The one I bought has them all mounted around a cylinder so there is an even spread of light

I thought about making shields between the colours to fit inside the lamp housing but I have not investigated the feasibility or indeed if its necessary or even desirable
 
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That looks interesting but with all the LEDs in each section mounted on a flat base as it were won't the three sectors tend to be rather too directional. The one I bought has them all mounted around a cylinder so there is an even spread of light

I thought about making shields between the colours to fit inside the lamp housing but I have not investigated the feasibility or indeed if its necessary or even desirable

Interestingly, Hella Marine also make most of their LED nav lights with two vertical arrays of 3528 SMD LEDs.

Each individual LED of course has an associated beam angle, so light output will spread somewhat and the spacing between the LEDs vertical arrays will also influence the viewing angle. I suspect maximum intensity will be at the centre but I don't think that would cause any particular problems. The sample picture shows the inter colour shields to be white which would, I presume, further help reflect light into the required field of view.
 
Presumably that new type would also need a replacement holder to ensure alignment?

I imagine it is done so that bulbs do not have to be specific to particular makes and models of lantern. It's pretty crude and without fine adjustment as you can see below. Without it the bulb would have been more than 90° out IIRC. Even with it its not spot on but presumably considered to be near enough.

DSCF0955.jpg~original


DSCF0956.jpg~original


DSCF0958.jpg~original
 
I fitted a NASA LED combined tri colour and anchor 3 yrs ago; it is still working fine, and I'm very happy with it. My only issue was it came with a short cable, which need to be joined to the existing cable in a waterproof way. Solder and glue filled heat shrink seems to be working. The light itself is light in weight, and mounting the bracket was easy.
 
This may be the expensive way, but I replaced my filament unit with an Aquasignal combined tricolour and anchor light system. I'm very pleased with this: very bright and adequate sector cutoff.
 
This may be the expensive way, but I replaced my filament unit with an Aquasignal combined tricolour and anchor light system. I'm very pleased with this: very bright and adequate sector cutoff.

I did the same and the sector cutoff was the main reason I went this way. I am yet to be convinced that replacement LED bulbs are a suitable alternative in a tricolour. Aquasignal are quite clear on this issue. Their LED tricolour system is USCG and MCA approved, but use of their lights with LED replacement bulbs is not.
 
That looks interesting but with all the LEDs in each section mounted on a flat base as it were won't the three sectors tend to be rather too directional. The one I bought has them all mounted around a cylinder so there is an even spread of light

SMD's have a wider viewing angle (typically 140 degrees) than traditional LED's so the lights should have a reasonable spread. They will also have a wider angle in the vertical plane which will give better light when the boat is heeled.
 
SMD's have a wider viewing angle (typically 140 degrees) than traditional LED's so the lights should have a reasonable spread. They will also have a wider angle in the vertical plane which will give better light when the boat is heeled.

Thanks for the explanation .... happy now!
 
I have a NASA Supernova Tricolour which only draws 200mA. It works fine and is very visible although the colours look a bit pale compared with what I had before. The only problem I had with it was that the glue fixing the light to its plastic stalk (NASA supplied) failed so I re-fixed it with Gorilla glue and a self-tapper.

nb I can't see much use for an anchor light 40 feet above the water line unless you are in the habit using big ship anchorages.
 
nb I can't see much use for an anchor light 40 feet above the water line unless you are in the habit using big ship anchorages.

But an all-round white can also be used, with sidelights, in place of separate masthead (" steaming") and stern lights on vessels under 12m if and when appropriate to do so
 
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