New gas hose.

[sailorman]

Thats right so a camping/caravaning shop with a relatively small turn over could have unsold stock rapidly approaching its recommended "end of life date" of 5 years from the date of manufacture. To have one coil doing that is bad enough without having two doing the same thing. Therefore they only stock the one type

Posted 09 July 2008 - 09:48 PM
As has been said, the date on the hose is the date it left the factory, it is not necessarily the date to go by.

Gas hose stored correctly does not deteriorate until gas is passed through it, then you should replace it every 3 years, or before if showing signs of damage.

The best practice is to affix a label in the gas locker with the date the hose was changed, and its next due date.

 

[VicS]

Posted 09 July 2008 - 09:48 PM
As has been said, the date on the hose is the date it left the factory, it is not necessarily the date to go by.

Gas hose stored correctly does not deteriorate until gas is passed through it, then you should replace it every 3 years, or before if showing signs of damage.

The best practice is to affix a label in the gas locker with the date the hose was changed, and its next due date.

But the trouble is it does deteriorate. I dug out a piece that I'd had left over from a previous change. As I pushed it onto a nozzle it split length wise.

5 years from the date stamped on it should be taken as its life.

 

[nickf]

Not conforming to BS 3212:1991 then!

Probably not - but then why would a French or Greek manufacturer comply with a British Standard?!
Interestingly I have also bought a gas hose in UK for a French oven (ENO) which had expiry date on it not date of manufacture.

 

[VicS]

Probably not - but then why would a French or Greek manufacturer comply with a British Standard?!
Interestingly I have also bought a gas hose in UK for a French oven (ENO) which had expiry date on it not date of manufacture.

Its surprising that there is not now a European standard

If you buy hose in the UK marked as compliant with BS3212 you know where you stand.

If you buy hose in another country compliant to their standards the its important that you know what their standard says. Then you know how you stand with that

 

[nickf]

Its surprising that there is not now a European standard

If you buy hose in the UK marked as compliant with BS3212 you know where you stand.

If you buy hose in another country compliant to their standards the its important that you know what their standard says. Then you know how you stand with that

Vic - You have got me thinking. I would be surprised if there is not a European standard. Perhaps my memory is playing tricks and I am wrong in stating that French hose has date of expiry stamped on it (boat is in Greece so can't check). Any one with Jeanneau/Beneteau/Dufour able to comment?

 

[VicS]

Vic - You have got me thinking.

Dont over do it at this time of night

 

[prv]

I do reach out of the main hatch and turn the regulator on for just cooking time, then it's off again, have always done that; just as well considering the hose rupturing on my other boat, if the regulator had been left on it would have merrily filled the boat with gas and I very much doubt I'd be here now; we were just off the Eddystone in a September F6, the jet of flame certainly got my undivided attention !

I turn the stop tap in the galley off after each use of the cooker - it's at the joint between copper and hose so would have done the job in your situation. My gas bottles are in the anchor locker (not a design I like, but seems to be the norm on Swedish boats) so it's far from convenient to turn valves there all the time. When I get round to refitting that area (I want to add a changeover valve and some better bottle holders) I will probably fit a solenoid valve and then I will be able to turn on and off from the galley.

Pete

 

[VicS]

I turn the stop tap in the galley off after each use of the cooker - it's at the joint between copper and hose so would have done the job in your situation. My gas bottles are in the anchor locker (not a design I like, but seems to be the norm on Swedish boats) so it's far from convenient to turn valves there all the time. When I get round to refitting that area (I want to add a changeover valve and some better bottle holders) I will probably fit a solenoid valve and then I will be able to turn on and off from the galley.

Pete

But the solenoid valve will be on the LP side of the regulator and should not be seen as a substitute for turning off the bottle valve. Only very marginally better than your existing local valve assuming all your rigid pipework is in good condition.

 

[prv]

But the solenoid valve will be on the LP side of the regulator and should not be seen as a substitute for turning off the bottle valve. Only very marginally better than your existing local valve assuming all your rigid pipework is in good condition.

I'd turn it off at the bottle when leaving the boat, as I do now. But whatever happens, the solenoid valve would keep gas outside the boat, and that's a good thing in my book. I've had a fairly substantial gas leak inside the gas locker before - faulty thread and self-sealer on a bottle - and I'm quite happy that it drains and vents and doesn't connect to the accommodation. If something upstream of the solenoid develops a leak in future, the result will presumably be much the same.

As for my rigid pipework - well, most of it is boxed in behind permanent joinery so who knows what condition it's in. That's how they built AWBs fifteen years ago.

Pete

 

[Seajet]

The hose in the gas locker is not long enough to "spin the bottle" off the regulator. Anyway it seems a recipe for fecking up the thread on the regulator to me.

VicS,

I've been doing this since 1978 with no problems; as I say I start the thread first courtesy of the flexible hose at the regulator.

 

[catlotion]

You can get proper flexible gas hose by the metre ( obviously should be kept to a minimum ) at caravan shops a lot cheaper than in chandleries; it has the year printed on it.

This is what I'm planning to use as I couldn't obtain a pre-made hose that was the right length from cooker to isolation valve. I was planning to use push-on fulham barb connectors with gas hose clips. Or should I really be using pre-made hose?

btw, I'm also fitting a bubble tester in the gas locker and getting someone to inspect it (if I ever find anyone that is!)

 

[KellysEye]

We had an armoured hose between the on/off switch and cooker, when we bought the boat I got a gas fitter to check the system and he found serious chafe in the rubber hose. It's not worth the risk to use rubber.