New engine - any hidden costs?

I replaced my old volvo with a d1-30F a few years back. It was fitted professionally but needed new seacocks and a modified exhaust attachment,

The alternator is on the other side and there is modifications to the electrics. The alternator is 110A so electrical systems need to be able to cope. It also leads to much greater heat generation from the alternator so consideration is needed for additional ventilation. With installation and new prop shaft and fuel systems it cost twice the basic engine cost. I did not change the prop because with the correct gearbox it was possible to run it in reverse as forward and reverse ratios are about the same.

I would be interested in who much more the boat is worth but expect less than 50% of what I spent.

I did find it advisable to change the speed controller but did not change the morse cables. One failed this summer. So don't skimp change the lot.
 
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If you do end up replacing the lot, be sure not to let the gearbox/saildrive go for scrap. You will be pleasantly surprised what they fetch second-hand as they are a rarity.
 
Yes. A new leg is £4.5k, so if yours is in clean condition you should get a good price. The broken engine also has A value as spares.
 
A lot depends on how much you of the work you will do yourself. On my last boat I re-engined it myself from Petter to Beta with no prior experience. Shaft alignment etc is more tricky than with a saildrive. I reckon it should be easier to replace a saildrive system as a DIY project. Check dimensions thoroughly to see if you need to modify engine compartment enclosure - to be avoided if at all possible. Before deciding on saildrive replacement I would dismantle the saildrive and examine for corrosion throughout especially at the gasket joint and evidence of seawater ingress. Check the splines at the engine gearbox interface. There are kits available to rectify excessive spline wear. Main extras could include some or all of these:- propeller (if opposite handed), control cables, morse throttle/gearbox control, exhaust system, pipework, closed circuit header tank, raw water strainer, antisiphon valve, battery cables and switch, saildrive gasket and seal kits (if not replacing the whole unit). My Scanmar has a hot water calorifier and I would recommend installing one if not already in place. The standard Sc33 fuel tank has no proper cleaning and inspection hatches and its worthwhile taking the tank out for a full clean and installing hatches whether or not you are doing a major engine job.
 
> I think your decision should be based around how long you intend to keep the boat for and what you want to do with it.

Good advice above.

These may have been mentioned before but this is from my experience replacing a MD7A with Beta 14, this spring. Some of this is due to the boat being wooden, but food for thought anyway.

Took the engine out and the engine bed FELL apart - new engine bed needed.

Areas around two sea cocks had rotted - so they had to be removed, areas fixed and new seacocks fitted.

We took the opportunity to review the anode arrangements - in my case there was some rot, so again fixed and replaced.

I didn't like the look of the electrics, so while the engine was out, these were stripped and re-wired.

I had put a new fuel tank in the year before, so that didn't need doing. But I replaced everything else from sea water strainer to making a new exhaust exit that was higher than the previous.

Engine cost £3.5K
Engineer to fit it about £1.5K
Engine bed and shipwrights another £2K
Parts and other bits about £1K

I did have a fixed price from one company of £7K all in but I wanted to be more in control of exactly how the job was done, and I did quite a lot of the manual work myself.

I could have saved money BUT this is for the long term. My view is if I take the money I have spent on the refit / 10 years its much less then a new boat would have cost me, I have enjoyed the project and I have learned so much about my boat that I can now fix (or know how to get fixed) just about anything on her.
 
I am very confused by all this

I was told in the most strident manner on this very forum that replacing an inboard only costs £2,000 and is cheaper than an outboard and that I must be a complete buffoon to even contemplate not replacing like with like

well jigger me

D
 
I replaced a Bukh 20 with a Yanmar 3GM30F. the change was relatively straightforward, needing upgrades to seawater inlet, 1/2 to 3/4 inch, exhaust hose, 40 to 50 mm, raised engine bearers to accommodate different height. The problem that I did not anticipate was that the mountings on the Bukh are far harder than those on the Yanmar, which has led to occasional clashes between the prop shaft and stern tube. The engine supplier exchanged the original rear mountings for the optional harder ones but this made little difference.
 
dylanwinter said:
I am very confused by all this

I was told in the most strident manner on this very forum that replacing an inboard only costs £2,000 and is cheaper than an outboard and that I must be a complete buffoon to even contemplate not replacing like with like

well jigger me

D
Click to expand...

The OP is considering replacing a complete 30 hp saildrive unit. Different league from fitting a Centaur with a secondhand engine. Not that you need to because you can buy a perfectly usable secondhand Centaur with a fully functioning, reliable inboard for lees than the cost of a new engine. You only have to take your blinkers off to see that.
 
Tranona said:
The OP is considering replacing a complete 30 hp saildrive unit. Different league from fitting a Centaur with a secondhand engine. Not that you need to because you can buy a perfectly usable secondhand Centaur with a fully functioning, reliable inboard for lees than the cost of a new engine. You only have to take your blinkers off to see that.
Click to expand...

where is it?

I will go take a look

D
 
dylanwinter said:
where is it?

I will go take a look

D
Click to expand...

There are over 30 listed on Yachtworld with asking prices of between £6-11k, many of them with newish engines that would cost £7K+ to install. Remember, these are mostly top of the range on offer and are mostly equipped and ready to go. Just one example that is close to you so that you can see what you can get for your money. Listed by Clarke and Carter, moored on the Thames, fully equipped, regularly updated, even with an up to date life raft dinghy and outboard and fitted with a 2004 Volvo 2030. Superb engine. Mine has 3500 hours on it mostly from being a charter boat and runs like new. Absolutely perfect for your trip - you could take off without spending a penny extra over the purchase price, do your trip reliably in comfort and sell it at the end. Asking price? £10k, so probably get it for around £9k - not much more than the price of a new Volvo engine installed. There has never been a better time to buy a boat of this quality and capability.
 
RO'D said:
Yes am considering going that road with local guy and tieing down what exactly he is and isn't doing.
Not in Wales I'm afraid - across the water from you
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From your comment I assume you are in Ireland. If so, Edina are the go-to people for Volvo-Penta.
Personally I would go with the replacement head option, but get an engineer to check out the rest of the engine. If you do go for the D1-30, you will probably find that the raw water intake is incorporated in the leg as it is in the D1-20. This arrangement can cause problems with blockages and you can't rod it through, I'm told. The best plan is to keep the existing independent seawater supply and plumb it into the supply taken in through the leg, through a 'tee'-joint. In the event of a blockage you can then close one seacock and open up the other.
 
yes but pre xmas is a good time to get a bargain if you're gonna get one and the one on ebay has an engine that works which means you wouldn't need to convert it just hand your spare on a bracket as an auxiliary

its in Grimsby so less likely to attract travellers from down south so you could get a deal. I would be tempted to at least try and steal a bargain - that's if you really want one:)
 
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